I'm planning on redoing my pads and rotors on my NSX soon and am looking for a good quality but not bad for my pocketbook set up for pads and rotors. I'd like non-dusting pads if possible, however I will do one or two track events per season with this setup so I'm concerned on some performance as well. Any suggestions? So far powerslot rotors from tirerack look attractive at $111 each, but I'm undecided on pads yet.
What are you non-BBK people running for pads and rotors?
- Thread starter comquat1
- Start date
Everyone's needs are different, trading off among grip, warmup, noise, dusting, price, longevity, etc.
Call Andie at Cobalt Friction. They have their own branded pads as well as selling most of the other major brands of pads and rotors. They know the NSX (Andie is a long-time owner), have great prices and great service. They will help you decide on the best pads and rotors for your specific needs.
Call Andie at Cobalt Friction. They have their own branded pads as well as selling most of the other major brands of pads and rotors. They know the NSX (Andie is a long-time owner), have great prices and great service. They will help you decide on the best pads and rotors for your specific needs.
Granted I dont race the car, but I the stock pads do the job well and are amazingly dust free (compared to BMW pads, which have to be the diritiest out there). I went to Mintex Red Box on all my BMWs and they are very clean, but again I am assuming these are not the best option for the track.
I used OEM rotors w/ Cobalt GT-Sport pads. I had them on for two track events and 3000 street miles and they still had more than 50% left. Never experienced any fade. Pads had minimal squeal, but loads of dust, it was a trade-off I learned to live with. I highly recommend going with Andie, excellent cutomer service and a NSX owner to boot.
I use the carbotech bobcats and have been very happy with them. They do dust more than OEM, but definitely worth the tradeoff. They are not a full track pad, but are IMO the best combo for the street (no problems cold braking, no squealing, etc).
To VegasBoy's note, they still dust considerably less than BMW OEM pads (which I also love).
To VegasBoy's note, they still dust considerably less than BMW OEM pads (which I also love).
i have slotted brembo sport rotors with axxis metal master pads all four cornors(oem size). i feel more stopping power than the stock sys. and not much dust on the wheels. i like them better than the stock ones.
i got 4 rotors for $500 with free shipping from N.C. and i got the pads for around $100.
jimmy
95 nsx- targa
working on :
comptech clutch(stage 2),taitec center exit exuast, comptech headers, taitec rear carbon diffuser.........
i got 4 rotors for $500 with free shipping from N.C. and i got the pads for around $100.
jimmy
95 nsx- targa
working on :
comptech clutch(stage 2),taitec center exit exuast, comptech headers, taitec rear carbon diffuser.........
In my experience, Axxis Metal Master pads are grossly inferior to even the stock pads. They cannot handle the heat generated on a racetrack. I had a set that caught fire!!!jimmygt said:
The Axxis Metal Master pads are so-so street pads that may be a cheap upgrade for a family sedan. They are not good enough for a high performance sports car IMO. They may stop the car okay in normal conditions, but on the track, or even for a sudden emergency stop, I wouldn't want them on my car. Just my opinion, based on having used them.
Note that Axxis makes other pads as well, including their "Ultimate" pad, that offers higher performance than the Metal Masters. I have not tried the Axxis Ultimate.
I ate thru four Bobcats in a single day up at Gingerman (granted two people were driving my car).
For occasional track use I have been having serious brake issues.
Not wanting to go to a BBK because I would need to buy two new sets of wheels I had my car up at Acura of Brookfield last week and John Vasos installed stainless brake lines, Hawk HP pads, resurfaced my rotors, flushed with Motul 600, cut the splash guards back about 75% and installed the Dali air deflectors.
I will be at Grattan in about two weeks and am anxious to test out the setup.
I'll let you know what I find.
For occasional track use I have been having serious brake issues.
Not wanting to go to a BBK because I would need to buy two new sets of wheels I had my car up at Acura of Brookfield last week and John Vasos installed stainless brake lines, Hawk HP pads, resurfaced my rotors, flushed with Motul 600, cut the splash guards back about 75% and installed the Dali air deflectors.
I will be at Grattan in about two weeks and am anxious to test out the setup.
I'll let you know what I find.
NeSX said:
Is there a way you can post (or send me an e-mail) a picture of the cut splash guard? Did you do the same for the rear splash guards too?
TIA
Hrant
[email protected]
dnyhof said:
I cannot believe Ken did not mention OEM.
Slotted rotors are for pad performance, they keep the surface of the pad clean and help relieve pressure from gas buildup due to pad/rotor interaction and heat. The vane setup between the inside and outside of the rotor is what keeps them cool. Directional vanes (i.e. Stoptech) have more cooling power than the straight radial arrangement.
If you are only running a couple of track sessions a year, I would just stick to OEM (maybe try the '97 compound). If you want something a little stickier, then Bobcats or Hawk HP. Anything else and you will be giving up one thing to make another better. True track pads are wonderful on the track, but less than ideal for every day driving.
I'm not using OEM pads or rotors these days. FWIW, I'm using Stoptech two-piece rotors and Cobalt GT Sport pads. But I agree with you that the OEM rotors and pads are fine for the casual/novice track person. I used them for quite a few years with good results.ncdogdoc said:I cannot believe Ken did not mention OEM.
Hrant said:
Unfortunately I picked the car up completed so I haven't even seen the remainder myself yet. I do have the pieces that were cut off though. When I switch out my wheels next week for the track I will take some pictures.
The only ones that were cut were the front as the only deflectors that were going on were for the front.
In practice you don't want to screw with them much as they shield the ball joints from excessive heat, however John felt that if they were cut the right way and the new deflectors were added, I should be olay up front.
NeSX said:
Exactly what I am looking to learn from your experience; the "cut the right way" ......... ;-)
The 97+ already are designed with two aerodynamic holes but they are not sufficient. This year I took my dust shileds off but would be very interested to know how the cut shields look mounted. I too have the Dali deflectors.
Thanks, looking forward to seeing those pics.
Well I just got my cobalt friction setup today. G3000 rotors front and rear (I think) and GT Sport pads in front and Axxix Ultimates in the rear. I'm doing the brakes myself following DanO's instruction online so hopefully everything will go well this weekend doing that. I just don't want to screw anything up.
all my mods are done now......i believe everybody has different taste. i will go to racing school this weekend and i will see what's gonna happen.
if my pads and rotors don't work, what can i say........go for better one......haha
jimmy
dyno: 259.7 hp with mods.
if my pads and rotors don't work, what can i say........go for better one......haha
jimmy
dyno: 259.7 hp with mods.
dnyhof said:Well I just got my cobalt friction setup today. G3000 rotors front and rear (I think) and GT Sport pads in front and Axxix Ultimates in the rear. I'm doing the brakes myself following DanO's instruction online so hopefully everything will go well this weekend doing that. I just don't want to screw anything up.
You will be just fine. I have absolutely no mechanical skills, and am able to do them myself after following Dan's instruction. Have fun!
