Warped wheel bolts---urgent help

[NsXTaCY168]

Apparently 3 of of the 5 lug nuts came loose during my drive today and I could feel the steering wheel shaking badly, as if I'm losing control. (The other 2 were slightly loose) I immediately pulled over. I inspected all 4 wheels and found the problem on the passenger side wheel.

3 out of the 5 lug nuts became loose (almost fell off). After removing all 5 lugs and the wheel. ***NOTE (ok, correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know jack about the mechanics of an automobile)***

I saw that 3 of the bolts were warped/defective. I saw some slight bent to it. How do I go about replacing it? I had the car towed back home, in my garage now......can't be driven.

Do I need a new rotor or what's it called? It's the 5 sticking out bolts that connect to the lugnuts.

I appreciate any assistance. If you have aol aim, please aim me at screen name : BMW162888 or Yahoo Messenger screen name : KL1603

Do I need to order it from the factory?

Kevin

 

[nsxtasy]

The bolts that you are referring to are called "studs". They can be obtained at any dealer and can be replaced individually; however, replacing them can be very tricky, as you can see in this topic. Unless you have a fair amount of mechanical experience (like Nick), I would leave this to a dealer or a professional independent mechanic like Don's.

When you get your car back, you might want to buy a good torque wrench, and use it to check how tight your lug nuts are on every once in a while. Keep it in the trunk. Also, stay alert for how your car is driving; in my experience, you can feel a car vibrating a long time before the lug nuts get so loose that the studs bend.

 

[NsXTaCY168]

Thank god I won't have to replace the entire rotor assembly. So, all I have to do is buy new "studs" ? What a major relief!

My car can't be driven. I will buy the new studs tomorrow.

You are 100% correct in that I did feel the vibrating at the start of my trip. However, I kinda ignored it and kept on driving on the freeway until it became unbearable. Just glad that the wheel didn't come off involved in a car accident or something.

Thank you once again for your expertise and assistance.

Kevin

 

[KGP]

Thank god I won't have to replace the entire rotor assembly. So, all I have to do is buy new "studs" ? What a major relief!

Not really! Replacing the rotors only are a piece of cake. With that said, the rotors themselves have nothing to do with your trouble. As nsxtasy points out, review the relevant thread should you try to attempt replacing the studs yourself.

For future reference, each time you have had a wheel off, or have driven hard (as in a track event), make sure to check the torque of the lugs after a short time driving. The first time I changed tires I went for two days before noticing a wobble, and was lucky enough to catch the problem in time. Maybe your lugs were loose enough, and for just long enough, to be the cause of the studs to to bend.

 

[NsXTaCY168]

Anyone have the part number for the studs?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

90113-SD4-902

Same for front and rear all years 1991-2003

HTH,
LarryB

 

[nsxtasy]

Not really! Replacing the rotors only are a piece of cake.

Hi Gene,

I think when Kevin expressed relief at not having to replace the entire "rotor assembly", he was in fact referring to the entire hub, not just the rotors themselves. In which case his sense of relief was quite appropriate.

Kevin,

Gene is also right; the rotors (the flat metal disks) alone are actually very easy to remove and replace - much easier than replacing the studs. Even though you wouldn't think it would be so difficult to replace a few bolts, it is! That's because replacing the rotors is much more common. Cars are designed to make it easy to perform services that are done frequently.

 

[nsxtasy]

P.S. Here is a photo of what new studs look like before they're installed in the hub:

 

[NsXTaCY168]

nsxtacy,

You said exactly what was on my mind. 1 question : Is it possible to replace the studs without removing the hub, rotors, brakes?

I was looking at it and it seems like the rotors and brake calipers are in the way of removing the studs.

I bought 2 new studs today from Acura, bolts(studs).......$5.99/each

Nick, can you send me some of those pics that you had taken on the procedure on replacing the studs. My email is [email protected]

Thank you all for your help regarding this matter.

Kevin

 

[DanO]

Front or Rear studs?

Front stud DIY replace procedure here: www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

BTW, i'd replace all five studs.

DanO

 

[dlongo]

Re: Re: Warped wheel bolts---urgent help

When you get your car back, you might want to buy a good torque wrench, and use it to check how tight your lug nuts are on every once in a while.

Sgt HARTMANSX mode on:

nsxtsasy is right on, son, you need a torque wrench, a good torque wrench!

THIS IS MY TORQUE WRENCH, THIS IS MY GUN, THIS ONE’S FOR LUG NUTS, THIS ONE’S FOR FUN

You buy one yet? Now hold it close and repeat after me:

“This is my torque wrench. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My torque wrench is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it, as I must master my life. Without me my torque wrench is useless. Without my torque wrench, I am useless. I must turn my torque wrench true. I must torque to spec better than my enemy. (80 ft-lb for those wheel nuts by the way) I must torque my bolts before they come loose and kill me!! I will.

Before God I swear this creed. My torque wrench and myself are defenders of my NSX. We are the masters of our enemy. We are the saviors of my life. So be it .. . until there is no enemy ... but peace. Amen.”

Tonight ... you will sleep with your torque wrench! You will give your torque wrench a girl's name! Because this is the only (expletive) you are going to get! You're married to this piece, this tool of iron! And you will be faithful!!

Sgt. HARTMANSX mode off

 

[Lud]

***NOTE (ok, correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know jack about the mechanics of an automobile)***

Kevin,

If you rate yourself as "don't know jack" when dealing with the mechanics of an automobile, then I strongly suggest you have this repair done by a mechanic instead of attempting it yourself. It should not be a particularly complicated, expensive or time consuming repair to have done by a mechanic, but I can see a total novice spending a LOT of time and probably just as much (or even more!) money by the time they buy the necessary tools which a total novice is not likely to have on hand.

The dealer who failed to tighten your lug nuts in the first place should probably pay for the repair, but that's another story.

 

[nsxtasy]

I agree - STRONGLY - with Lud.

Kevin, if you think you might be interested in working on your own car, this is not a place to start. I would suggest simple operations like changing wheels using a torque wrench, changing brake pads, changing oil - and having someone there to teach you how to do these things. There are also lots of good books, and classes at your local community college, as ways of learning mechanical skills.

However, if you do take it to a professional mechanic for the repair, it might be instructive for you if he would let you watch him do the repair. At some shops they will let you do this, at others it's prohibited...

 

[matteni]

Sorry - I haven't been up on this thread and I will get the pictures reposted tonight when I get home.

Also - I learned "the hard way" about NSX maintenance and these folks are right. If you have a mechanically inclined friend or an off duty mechanic that can work with you then you will do fine.

BTW - it takes a TON of torque to seat the new studs. You will want to use my trick with the LONG box wrenches as washers so that you can plant you foot against it while you pull the stud through.

The only problem - at least in my mind - with taking it to an Acura dealer is they are going to want to completely remove the rear hub and press the new studs in off the car - which means (I believe) removing the rear axle nuts and maybe even the axle - which means mucho labor $$$$$$$$$.

 

[nsxtasy]

they are going to want to completely remove the rear hub and press the new studs in off the car - which means (I believe) removing the rear axle nuts and maybe even the axle - which means mucho labor $$$$$$$$$.

We still don't know which end of the car we're talking about. DanO's description of replacing studs in front sounds like he removes the hub but it's not a lot of labor (one hour total for all five studs).

Do they really need to remove the axle to remove the hub in the rear? That doesn't sound right to me...

 

[dlongo]

Do they really need to remove the axle to remove the hub in the rear? That doesn't sound right to me...

no, not according to the service manual procedure

looks like about an hour of labor

Dave

 

[matteni]

no, not according to the service manual procedure

looks like about an hour of labor

Dave

Yes - it didn't sound right to me either. That is why I left the dealership and used my own enginuity to do it myself.

BTW - I assume by an hour you mean removing 1 hub completely?

It took me well over an hour to grab all the tools, jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the caliper/rotor, bang out 2 old studs and press in 2 new ones, and put everything back together.

YMMV

 

[dlongo]

BTW - I assume by an hour you mean removing 1 hub completely?

It took me well over an hour to grab all the tools, jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the caliper/rotor, bang out 2 old studs and press in 2 new ones, and put everything back together.

YMMV

yeah, I meant an hour to get it apart. Your dealer told you the axle had to come out?? wow.... just amazing

 

[NsXTaCY168]

Proper towing for the NSX............?

Thanks to all that replied. Being the novice that I am, I have made an appointment at Don's auto shop this Thursday and let the trained experts handle it.

Here's my situation :

Front passenger hub has 2 warped/bented studs. Rest of the wheels are fine. I live about 4 miles away from Don's shop. My car is in my garage. Car is not lowered. What's the best and proper way to tow my car to Don's shop?

1) Do I use a flatbed towtruck? Keep in mine, my car will only have 3 wheels on........read above....

2) Shop is 4 miles away............Do u suggest that I put the front wheel back on the 3 remaining studs? That way I figure it would be easier for them to tow....

3) If I am gonna use a flatbed, how am I gonna get the car up there on 3 wheels? How will I get the car out of the garage on 3 wheels? Car is currently jacked up on the front.

4) Should I have them replaced just the 2 studs or all 5?

Please advise me on the proper way to tow a NSX on 3 wheels that's currently inside my garage.

Thank you.

Kevin

 

[MarkB]

I had a similar problem with an s2k. I would recommend re-mounting the front wheel on the remaining good studs and have a flatbed truck move the car.

 

[zoomnsx]

Ask Don if he or his tech can work on it at your house since
he's only 4 miles away.

 

[Elite]

Put the fourt tire back on and have it flatbedded. If you can not get it on over the two bent studs, cut off the studs. Flatbed is your best solution. Mo - Elite.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

I had mine flat bedded and will agree it is the way to go. Even with the WW kit on it, it didn't scrap going on.
Put the wheel back on so as to not damage any suspension pieces tho.

 

[ChopsJazz]

Ask Don if he or his tech can work on it at your house since
he's only 4 miles away.

Great idea! But if you can't get it done like that, the flatbed is the way to go. But to avoid scraping the front have ti winched up from the rear. That'll give the front lip the clearance it needs.

 

[nsxtasy]

Ask Don if he or his tech can work on it at your house since
he's only 4 miles away.

I agree that this is worth asking.

And if he says no, maybe he can recommend a towing service in your area that will give your car the care and attention that it needs to get it to his place without further damage.