VTEC mystery for the experts....

Joined
10 November 2003
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173
Location
Hillsboro, Orygun
Been struggling with this problem for a bit, wondering if anyone has some input before doing some exploration in the motor...

I've got the case of the intermittent VTEC... on one head only.


Got my motor together and in the car, have a Vipec ECU and dual widebands.

Tuner noticed that the Vipec sends the signal to both spool at the same time, but the signal from the pressure switch on the front bank spool valve (that verify the spool valves have opened as oil pressure has increased inside) comes on after a couple seconds if at all. (the rear bank sensor shows oil pressure coming up immediately as it should).

The A/F trace from the widebands shows the front bank going rich as the front bank gets the signal to go into VTEC and the Vipec map tries to add fuel for the correct A/F ratio (the Vipec map was made on a car that VTEC operated correctly on). This confirms that it isn't a faulty pressure switch on the spool valve, as it is clear that the front bank isn't actually going into VTEC immediately if at all.

So.. okay, got a sticky spool valve... or a bad connection to the spool valve solenoid...right?

Check connection, apply dielectric grease, same result. Jumper the spool valve solenoid to 12v, same result. Pull off spool valve, disassemble, clean, inspect, bench test, reinstall, same result.

Then I realize the front / rear spool valves are the same, so swap them front to back. The problem stays on the front bank, so it's not the spool valve or the connection to it.

So... put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in various places to see just what is going on.

For the following tests, the Vipec is setup to engage VTEC at 4000rpm no load, videos show oil pressure gauge and tach. You can see what happens when the VTEC engages on the oil pressure gauge.

In the first video, I test the oil pressure at a tee installed by the factory engine oil pressure sender on the front bank. Pressure rises to 54psi as engine revs, until VTEC engages (spool valves open) at 4k causing pressure to drop (which is normal):

http://youtu.be/qI3OSIhrPu0


In the second video, I removed the pressure switch from the front spool valve and installed the mechanical gauge. This gauge should read zero until VTEC engages, then should quickly rise. It reads zero, then slowly rises to 11psi. This explains why VTEC is engaging slowly, (if at all) as that isn't enough pressure to quickly / reliably lock the rockers together:

http://youtu.be/M5Qo8vqgvPI


The third video is the same test done on the rear spool valve. The oil pressure quickly rises to 72 psi, which interestingly is more pressure than is shown at the oil pressure sender, which may be a clue as I don't know why the rear spool valve is seeing 18 psi more than the oil pressure sender:

http://youtu.be/yzZESTweESA


So, at this point, I've deduced the front spool valve is opening, is being fed by 54psi oil, but is only building 11psi in the system.

This is where the limited information in the service manual and my limited knowledge of where the oil actually goes after the spool valve makes things... murky.

I am under the impression that the oil flows past the spool valve into the rocker shafts, where it is restricted at the far end by the rocker shaft orifices at the far end (see schematic in the 1991 service manual page 5-11 and / or illustration of the actual pin on 6-33).

This causes pressure build up that flows through holes in the rocker shaft into the rocker arms, and pushes the hydraulic piston to the side that locks the rockers together (page 5-6)

What is less clear is where the oil goes after the restrictors, and here's where some speculation comes in, as it's not shown on the schematic of page 5-11. I believe it flows back to the other end of the head (although it doesn't make a whole lot of sense) and flows out the "relief hole" close to the spool valve (see page 6-52). This is the hole that you plug with the VTEC plug to bench test the valve train by putting air into the VTEC inspection hole. That would make sense, as the air you put in then doesn't escape past the restrictors and out the relief hole because it is plugged.

I can only guess where the "VTEC inspection hole" that you introduce air into for this test (which looks like a bolt on the side of the cylinder head) taps into the VTEC oil system. It would make sense that it taps in after the spool valve and before the restrictors, but given it's location is almost seems like it's after the restrictors and before the relief hole.

Anyhoooo....

I figured that maybe one of the hydraulic pistons between the rockers fell out when they were out of the head or something, so I devised a test.

In the last test, I removed the valve cover and filled a bottle with oil pressurized to 60psi and connected it to a tap where the factory oil pressure sender is on the front bank (just before the front spool valve), then took a video while I opened a valve on the bottle. I was expecting to see oil leaking out from in between one set of rockers, but it all seemed to come out the VTEC relief hole (ignore my "aha! it's so simmmmple to fix comment on the vid; this was before I knew what the relief hole was for):

http://youtu.be/L5M-QGyTKtk


So, now my guess is that one of the restrictor pins is... what.... missing? I doubt it. Has too big of hole? How the heck would that happen? Missing an O-ring? hard to not notice when putting it back together, but also didn't see oil coming out here, just from the relief hole.

These heads have been apart several times, and have had machine work done, bigger valves installed, been hot tanked etc. I don't know if there's a galley plug missing somewhere, or what. My fear is that I pull the cams, inspect the restrictors, find that they're there, that there are ... well normal looking holes in them and that the o-rings are in place... and all the rocker hydraulic pistons are in place... and then what??

Hoping to find someone with intimate knowledge of the VTEC system parts to give some insight ...

As a side note, this issue has probably been with the motor for the last couple rebuilds, and could have easily contributed to a failure. It explains some of the mysterious goings on in the past that could only be seen with 2 widebands and an attentive tuner....


Any input / insight would be appreciated before ....ugh... I really don't want to pull the cams and rocker shafts in the car...


- C
 
IN the service manual pic on page xxx You will see (2) Rocker Shaft Orifices and (1) Cylinder Head Orifice. These restrict flow in that oil circuit, both feed and return. I suspect the "return" is too free flowing.

If you look at this part pic:

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...+(FR.)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

You will see parts #21 dowel, and #24 o-ring. I think #21 may be missing. I have not had your issue, but once I could not find #21, after an upper end rebuild. I thought about it, then I pulled the oil drain plug in the oil pan, and went in with a magnet with a telescoping handle, guess what came out? #21!!

So it may be worth an oil drain, WITH A STRAINER in the oil flow, then fishing with a magnet. Actually not a big deal to fix it, if this is the case.

LMK how what you find.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Ya, I'm with Larry, I've seen this missing in a couple motors that were rebuilt and came in with the same problem.

The other thing I have seen is a missing Vtec pin in a rocker arm.
 
IN the service manual pic on page xxx You will see (2) Rocker Shaft Orifices and (1) Cylinder Head Orifice. These restrict flow in that oil circuit, both feed and return. I suspect the "return" is too free flowing.

If you look at this part pic:

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...+(FR.)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

You will see parts #21 dowel, and #24 o-ring. I think #21 may be missing. I have not had your issue, but once I could not find #21, after an upper end rebuild. I thought about it, then I pulled the oil drain plug in the oil pan, and went in with a magnet with a telescoping handle, guess what came out? #21!!

So it may be worth an oil drain, WITH A STRAINER in the oil flow, then fishing with a magnet. Actually not a big deal to fix it, if this is the case.

LMK how what you find.

Regards,
LarryB


First - thank you for the reply, very helpful!

I doubt I'll find anything in the pan as this motor has been completely rebuilt and the problem was there before the rebuild, we suspect. I think the pin is long gone.

So... am I correct in thinking I can leave the cams in place and just remove the front cam holder and check for the pin & O-ring underneath?

(see attached pic from page 6-4; red arrow) :smile:
 

Attachments

Ya, I'm with Larry, I've seen this missing in a couple motors that were rebuilt and came in with the same problem.

The other thing I have seen is a missing Vtec pin in a rocker arm.

Thanks Angus! At first my guess was a VTEC pin, and I expected to see oil pouring out from between a set of rockers when I did the pressure test. When it all came out the VTEC relief hole.... I knew it was probably something else.

I'll check out dowel pin and let you know what I find...
 
well....not exactly, since you need to remove the upper cam pipes to get the front cam holder off, the cams will lift, so you will need to do this carefully, and you really need to try to keep the other three cam holders down.

I actually made a clamp that bolts across the cam holders(3) by using rods threaded into the spark plug holes, in order to make cam plug changes easier, and that would work for this, same principle, but I would mount it backwards to hold the back three cam holders down, vs. the front three.

I assume you want to do this without taking the timing belt off:). You can also remove one cam pipe(intake) them you can use some washers to hold the cam holders in place with the original bolts, same with the exhaust cam pipe.

Hope that makes sense.

Regards,
LarryB
 
well....not exactly, since you need to remove the upper cam pipes to get the front cam holder off, the cams will lift, so you will need to do this carefully, and you really need to try to keep the other three cam holders down.

I actually made a clamp that bolts across the cam holders(3) by using rods threaded into the spark plug holes, in order to make cam plug changes easier, and that would work for this, same principle, but I would mount it backwards to hold the back three cam holders down, vs. the front three.

I assume you want to do this without taking the timing belt off:). You can also remove one cam pipe(intake) them you can use some washers to hold the cam holders in place with the original bolts, same with the exhaust cam pipe.

Hope that makes sense.

Regards,
LarryB


Yes, not removing the belts would pretty much make my day. So, I'll try the "one cam pipe at a time" approach with putting the bolts back in with washers.

Do I need to rotate the engine to try to find a place where the cams are more unloaded from the valve springs?
 
Does that dowel pin + oring normally stay in the head? I don't remember noticing anything with an o-ring last time I was in there.
 
well....not exactly, since you need to remove the upper cam pipes to get the front cam holder off, the cams will lift, so you will need to do this carefully, and you really need to try to keep the other three cam holders down.

I actually made a clamp that bolts across the cam holders(3) by using rods threaded into the spark plug holes, in order to make cam plug changes easier, and that would work for this, same principle, but I would mount it backwards to hold the back three cam holders down, vs. the front three.

I assume you want to do this without taking the timing belt off:). You can also remove one cam pipe(intake) them you can use some washers to hold the cam holders in place with the original bolts, same with the exhaust cam pipe.

Hope that makes sense.

Regards,
LarryB


Not to hijack this thread, but Larry, can you please provide a picture of this clamp? Seems like a very useful tool to fabricate for future use.

Thanks!

GL to the OP on your issue. You've got some great NSX minds pondering your dilemma.
 
Does that dowel pin + oring normally stay in the head? I don't remember noticing anything with an o-ring last time I was in there.

Actually that's the problem!! The damn thing is hard to notice:).

It can come off with the cam holder, stay in the head, or in my case fall down the oil return galley in the head/block and end up in the oil pan;).
 
Do I need to rotate the engine to try to find a place where the cams are more unloaded from the valve springs?

Looks like I did derail the thread, can somebody answer this one for the OP? I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter since you're specifically clamping the cams down (ie not allowing the cams to move), but it would be good for somebody who has done it this way to chime in.
 
When I do this I typically unload the cylinder closest to the cam plugs, so #3 and #6 rear/front respectively. I do this by having those cylinders at TDC compression. Frankly, I really do not think it matters, you just want to unload the cams carefully if you unload them at all. In the case of removing the cam pipes, then rebolting the cam holders back down, I would not be too concerned.

Regards,
LarryB
 
When I do this I typically unload the cylinder closest to the cam plugs, so #3 and #6 rear/front respectively. I do this by having those cylinders at TDC compression. Frankly, I really do not think it matters, you just want to unload the cams carefully if you unload them at all. In the case of removing the cam pipes, then rebolting the cam holders back down, I would not be too concerned.

Regards,
LarryB



Okay, I'm digging into it Friday, we'll see what we uncover once we get in there....
 
After taking the cam pipes and front cam holder off (thanks Larry B for the tip about removing one cam pipe at a time and bolting down the other cam holders with washers), the results were..... puzzling.

Dowel and O-ring were in place in the center of the cam holder. Rocker shaft restrictors in place with O-rings. When feeding pressurized oil into the spool valve, no oil leakage between rocker arms (which would indicate a missing VTEC pin).

Back to square one, given that the lack of pressure in the VTEC system of the front head is not due to the oil flowing out freely somewhere.

So... must be an inadequate supply in oil volume to maintain pressure when the spool valve opens. And after studying the videos more, am increasingly convinced this is the issue.

1. The rear spool valve reads 72psi, but the at the oil sender tap on the front head (immediately before the front spool valve) the pressure is 54psi. These pressures should be the same as both points feed from passages that come off the rear main. If anything, the pressure measured at the sender should be higher than 72psi when not in VTEC, as the 72psi in the rear spool valve is including pressure loss due to the opening of the VTEC system (in the rear head, at least). I believe some oil is routed through the system when the spool valve is closed, and the 54psi reflects the pressure drop with even a modest amount of oil making it through.

2. The 54psi at the sender tap drops rapidly towards 30psi (and perhaps lower - the video ends) when the spool valve opens, which is a much greater pressure drop than should happen in VTEC - I've been told it's more like 5psi. At the same time the VTEC pressure slowly rises to 10psi; there's just not enough oil getting through.


So now I'm going to run an external oil feed from rear head (pre spool valve) to a tee at the pressure sender on the front head. I suspect that pressure at the front spool valve will be 72psi when the spool valve opens, and the front VTEC will operate properly. If it is significantly less, than if it's the same at the rear spool valve then the oil feed to the rear head is inadequate to feed both VTEC systems. If it works, well, then I must have some kind of restriction / blockage in the galley leading from the rear main to the front head.

Sounds pretty far fetched.. but given the symptoms and what I've eliminated so far.... it's kinda where I'm going.
 
I like the way you're tackling this ... thoughtful and systematic.

I'm partly interested because I had a weird and rather disconcerting oil pressure issue recently, soon after installing the SoS aftermarket oil pressure sender kit. All seemed normal for about 10 miles driving until suddenly, while reverse parking at low revs, engine made a huge dry rattling sound.... turned it off, then on again and same noise, oil pressure zero. Got car towed home, spent two weeks in garage sweating over the problem, testing oil pressure at various places (not as adventurous as you though!). Contemplated faulty oil pump etc. Nothing wrong with the Sos kit, but one day I just started car up to try next theory, and... bingo, problem gone! even though I did nothing to fix it (that I know of) :confused::confused::confused:. Car has been fine ever since ....

Interesting thing is the oil pressure port is off the same oil galley (I think) that feeds the VTEC valve on left side of engine. hmmmm ...
 
Last edited:
Well, the bypass worked and now both spool valves are showing ~70psi in VTEC.

Ended up pulling the two 16mm x 1.5 allen galley plugs in the heads (located on the flywheel end of the motor by the spool valves) and replacing them with AN fittings connected by -6 hose. Let me tell you how much fun THAT was with the motor in the car :rolleyes:

Essentially the rear bank VTEC oil feed from the rear main feeds both heads, and the problem was a partial blockage in the internal oil feed between the rear main and the cylinder head.

I doubt this thread will help anyone with a similar problem, as I doubt anyone else will HAVE this problem.
 
I am very interested in what sort of blockage, and do you know what caused it?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
 
I am very interested in what sort of blockage, and do you know what caused it?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

Unfortunately, no.

The motor has been gone through a couple times; it's the mystery of the ages as to what is really going on.

There's only a short length of passage that I bypassed, and it works now... so there's obviously something in there or could also be an issue where the passage goes through the head gasket to the head too.
 
fair enough ....

I reckon this is an important topic for NSX owners, so I'll be interested if any others have found / cleared any such blockages ??
 
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