Violet Alarm wire Clifford Cannot Find Connection, Sorry, the wire is Green, not Violet

[whh333]

Recently purchased 1992 seems to have a Clifford Matrix RSX3.5 alarm and XCRS Start module. When the unlock button on the Viper remote is pushed, a solenoid is clicking, but the doors do not unlock. Everything else seems to work.

When the covers under the steering wheel were removed, a violet wire was hanging loose, shown in the first attachment.

A Clifford wiring diagram (second attachment) found on the web indicates this is the door unlock wire.

I spent as much time as I could upside down under the steering wheel and could not find where to attach this wire, though I could clearly see where the other wires were attached, like the black wire attaching to a pink wire to the left on the first photo.

Anybody have any idea where or what color wire this violet wire attaches to? I realize it should not be this complicated, there is only a 6" radius of where the wire can go, but it has me stumped.

Thanks for any ideas.

 

[drew]

Goes to courtesy lights, the lights that come one even you open the for.

There should be a footwell lamp on the under dash cover.

 

[whh333]

Oh My Gosh, that explains why I cannot find the connection, I was not looking at that lamp because it is on the cover removed to get access to the wiring. I may have pulled the wire off when removing this cover, so reconnecting it may not solve my problems the way it seemed.

Will be away from the car for a few days, but will report back when I can get another look.

Many thanks!

 

[drew]

The connector for the courtesy lamp should be split on the cover and the under the driver side dash. The connectors for the chime may be keyed alike but are color coded.

I don't believe the Clifford requires an input from the door lamps to request an unlock. Even if that were the case: the open door trigger/sense (violet) would read 0v (nothing) and request an unlock.

You'll need a test light or volt meter to safely continue your troubleshooting.

Use this link as a troubleshooting guide https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/91-92-keyless-solved.140311/

I_M_Legend and Drew (that's me) can help with replacing the Keyless Entry System if you want a PnP solution.

 

[Wild Turkey]

Best thing I did was pull out an old clifford alarm and replace it with @drew 's excellent system. I'm not sure what the best-before date is on those old Cliffords, but mine was long past reliable operation.

Are you LHD or RHD?
RHD - I think only @drew 's system would be plug and play?
LHD - @I_M_Legend has a system for sure, you'd have to ask @drew if he has a LHD version.

Both systems are similar, and a huge improvement over the crappy dealer add-on because they have a separate lock and unlock button so you're not wondering what you just did and if it's locked or not. (Acura remote: 1 lock/unlock button and no confirmatory light flash.) Also they flash the running lights to confirm lock/unlocking and also can pop the trunk! Acura clearly designed the trunk for remote access with the electronic trunk release, even that one stupid button in the middle of nowhere on the driver's door, but then oddly never offered a remote to make it work. Thanks to @drew and @I_M_Legend for rectifying it.

If you do switch, make a note of where the trunk pop wire connects off the clifford; you may be able to use that wire with @drew or @I_M_Legend system.

 

[drew]

The KA5 Legend has the same trunk lock set up: same parts bin buttons and all.

There is a master trunk lock switch in the lockable glovebox that the valet key should NOT be able to unlock. And the valet key should not be able to be used in the keyed lock at the trunk either.

In theory, if you wish to keep your trunk contents safe from the valet: turn OFF the trunk switch in the glove box, lock the glove box with the standard key, and then only give the valet the designated valet key. In practice, the valet key seems to be no different than the general-use key, though a different key cut process may have been lost to time.

I suspect this was the purpose of the solenoid for the trunk lock opening. I don't think they had any bigger plans for the trunk lock. A Keyless Entry System in 1990 was big-league stuff as it was and a remote trunk lock release was just unimaginable back then.

The trunk wire is buried in a 20P connecter in the left-hand footwell. And this was the easiest location to tap into the trunk solenoid.

 

[whh333]

Can't wait to get back to the car and try some of this stuff out--it is all great information, thanks and will report back!

 

[whh333]

Found the following:

The courtesy light under the dash does have a wire going to it, but it is pink and looks like it was intended to go here because of the length and the wire guard.



I found a vacant connection way up under the dash, on a smaller gauge white/black wire (wire bundle can be seen in center of next picture), and I am not sure the violet wire goes here because the latter is a bit short in length for this position. If it does go there, it is no wonder that it got detached because there would have been a strain on the connection, which would not have held over time in a vibrating car. A Clifford legend found online lists the violet wire as "Driver side ground path input". Does this seem the right place to try?



Thanks again for any ideas!

 

[I_M_Legend]

I suspect the tap to the white/black wire is for trunk release function. I'm not sure about the rest.

 

[whh333]

MY APOLOGIES, I was rooting around some more and saw a clearly violet wire, this wire must be considered Green, though it has a lot of blue in the color. The only difference this makes is that Green is the positive side door switch, and Violet is the negative. Have not been able to find a connection point within reach of this wire, though. I have found green and violet wires that do seem connected in a bundle. The ones that are connected seem to be about 12 gauge wires, while the green one not connected is about 16 gauge.

 

[Wild Turkey]

This is starting to sound a bit tenuous. Connecting wires that you're not sure about has the potential to not just blow fuses, but fry electrical components. While toasting a Clifford Alarm wouldn't be a big deal, if you short something out that damages the NSX wiring or an OEM component, that could be a BIG commitment in time and/or $. Are you sure you're comfortable with this?
Here's a pic of about 1/3 of the wiring I found taking out my old Clifford. Does that help find the wire you're looking for?

 

[whh333]

Wild Turkey, you are correct, I am not wanting to make things worse and potentially fry chassis wires. This started out looking for a connection point that made sense to try, but I cannot find that. I have scheduled an appointment for a shop to look at the car, and if they cannot fix it, I will explore I_M_Legend's PNP system. I appreciate everyone's help with this and will let you know the resolution.

The wiring diagrams found indicate this smaller gauge green wire could be a lock signal wire.

 

[drew]

Yes, get back on track to diagnosing the door un/lock issue. This is fumbling in the dark on the wrong side of the room

There are 2x violet wires. One of them is a trigger to activate the alarm when system is armed.

I don't believe any of this is germane to the door un/lock issue.

You need to verify the condition of the OEM door locking system. Then determine if the Clifford is sending out a request and if its getting to the OEM system. For this you need a test light multiimeter...costs a few dollars at Harbor Freight.

The Clifford seems to have integrated high amp relays and the original install shop may have just butchered OEM wires and here we are. Or they interfaced into the door lock control unit. We don't know. The harness labeled 7-pin H3 is your start point.

The OEM Security Control Unit is very good and the Clifford is completely redundant and an additional unnecessary failure point.

IMO the Clifford should be removed and the vehicle returned to stock because it was superfluous on day one and likely just what the install shop knew what to do best. Though the normally open kill switch is fairly rare, might fetch decent money on eBay.

I recommend getting a PnP system. It will likely be the most expedient, cost effective, and reliable system. Also easily reversed.

Make sure your new shop doesn't cut any stock wires and/or offer you a different system.