Valve adjustment DIY pic documentation?
- Thread starter goldNSX
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How soon do you need it?? Maybe I'll do an intensive pic DIY on that too...
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goldNSX said:Thanks very much, Brian. It's just what I was looking for. Difficulty level: 7!What is the scale on this 1 to 10 or 1 to 100?
heh.. forgot about that..
that works....
good luck w/ the adjustment... it's not bad after the first time.. The hardest part about it is learning how to become a contorsionist to get the rear bank exhaust valves... :biggrin:
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goldNSX said:Do you think it's a good idea to arrange some chiropractic meetings before and afterwards?
It's one of those things you pick up after awhile... i run mine on the tight side so what I do is put the smaller of the two (.007 and .008 i think) so the 7 in this instance and make it so that it has some resistance pulling it out or pushing it in... then I run the 8 such that it doesn't even fit...
everyone has special ways of doing it but I've been doing it like this for nearly 6 years and I haven't had any issues so far..
x
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VBNSX said:
The manual stated outlet valve 0.007-0.008 or 0.17-0.19 mm. I have a feeler gauge in mm and two of them are 0.15 and 0.20 mm. Does it work with these, what do you think. Or is it better to get and U.S. feeler gauge as the 0.007 is just in between the 0.15 and 0.20 mm (0.178 mm)?
goldNSX said:
Honestly, I wouldn't play around w/ "it's close"... I mean think about how small these tolerances are...
I'd suggest going out and buying a feeler gauge set with exactly what you need.. (intake is .006 and .007 isn't it?) this way you're 100% of your results.
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Intake is .006-.007, exhaust .007-.008. I keep them tight too, to within a mil (.001). Definitely get the right feelers--they're quite cheap. Don't do all that work and buy all those tools and seals only to leave the valves out of spec! It does take practice.
If you can get the long ones, 8-10 in. It is a lot easier than the ones that are 3-4 in long. If they are connected get them out single. Start on the rear bank first, that way things get easier as you go!
I timed myself the first time I did mine. With the engine opened up (doing the timing belt), just the adjustment took me 45 min.
Good luck,
Brad
I timed myself the first time I did mine. With the engine opened up (doing the timing belt), just the adjustment took me 45 min.
Good luck,
Brad
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I've threatened that I'll do this DIY project. 
Some impressions.
Very much thanks go to www.danoland.com
I started on the front head to gain a feel for the valve measurement. Next week I'll get the adjustment tools then I take off. Measuring the valve gap is not very easy but I found it out how to do it correctly. The most annoying point was that the feeler blade stopped in a groove first. I've found most of them within specs, two exhaust valves were 0.009'' (felt stiff but was able to put it in) but I don't know how much this contributes to the noise level. I think there must be some valves with more gap.
I've lost one of six of the small rubbers (see pic).
I've heard it dropping down the engine bay but not on the floor. I'll buy a new one I think.
I was warned by my mechanic that getting the gaskets on is the next challange but I have to wait for them about three weeks (WHAT?! They don't have it in stock here.)
Some impressions. Very much thanks go to www.danoland.com
I started on the front head to gain a feel for the valve measurement. Next week I'll get the adjustment tools then I take off.
Measuring the valve gap is not very easy but I found it out how to do it correctly. The most annoying point was that the feeler blade stopped in a groove first. I've found most of them within specs, two exhaust valves were 0.009'' (felt stiff but was able to put it in) but I don't know how much this contributes to the noise level. I think there must be some valves with more gap. I've lost one of six of the small rubbers (see pic).
I've heard it dropping down the engine bay but not on the floor. I'll buy a new one I think. I was warned by my mechanic that getting the gaskets on is the next challange but I have to wait for them about three weeks (WHAT?! They don't have it in stock here.
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don't paint them.... get them powdercoated.....
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/valve_covers/
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/valve_covers/
I don't see why you can't use mm feelers if you also have the gap opening numbers in metric ...
I would choose a good high temp paint over powdercoating for valve covers myself. Powder coating has a too thick appearance to me to use on parts like engine covers.
I would choose a good high temp paint over powdercoating for valve covers myself. Powder coating has a too thick appearance to me to use on parts like engine covers.
Most of the noise in the valve train is not from incorrect valve adjustment but from the LMA (LOST MOTION ASSEMBLIES). there is an updated design available from Honda and the aftermarket by SOS. The early units would age and oil would cause the units to move less and resulted in the sewing machine sound common to our engines.
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/LMA/
Dave
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/LMA/
Dave
In my opinion it is a motor out, heads off type of repair, it is not required but the cams have to be pulled and the valves adjusted, both of these items are done much easier and more accuratly on a bench. I would wait untill the timing belt, water pump, cam plugs, spool valves, head gasket or other major item is needed for repair or replacement. I believe the issue with these LMA's is age and the fact that most of our cars spend a long time sitting in the garage and not being driven. The parts are cheep, but the labor is crazy high. I had my motor out last year for timing belt and water pump, did the valve adjustment and was hoping that was the source of the noisy valvetrain, but it did not completely quiet the sound, and I started doing more research on the LMA's and am sure that is the source of the noise most common to the earlier NSXs. I have a CTSC and am sure as the car ages that a head gasket will be needed someday, and will put them in then as I find it easier to remove the drivetrain using a lift than do major engine repairs with the drivetrain in the car.
Do a search for LMA or "lost motion assemblies" most info is here on Prime.
Dave
Do a search for LMA or "lost motion assemblies" most info is here on Prime.
Dave
I'm not 100% sure, but from what I can tell they are there to keep pressure on the VTEC rocker arms when the cams are not locked in VTEC mode so they do not loose contact with the cams, I suppose that if the units completely failed that the vibrating rocker arms could just flop around on the cams and cause some problems, but I think mostly they are there to quite the valvetrain when not in VTEC mode. I think your question about damage is better suited for those who rebuild the NSX or other VTEC Honda motors.
The service manual does cover the replacement and testing of the LMA's.
Dave
The service manual does cover the replacement and testing of the LMA's.
Dave
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I did the 12 valves on the front head. To be on the save side I've measured with the thicker blade (0.007 on the intake, 0.008 on the exhaust valves) until it was very stiff to push through. The thinner blade went easy with no resistance. I'll complete the front head tomorrow. My mechanic told me to use silicon on the edges of the cylinder head where the gasket sits on because these are the most common places where it starts to leak. Not a bad idea.
Don't let anything drop behind the front head! It falls down between two walls and is very hard to get to.
Don't let anything drop behind the front head! It falls down between two walls and is very hard to get to.
