I know there are other threads on adjusting the valves. So my post may not add a whole lot to the topic. But I adjusted the valves on my 97 this weekend and thought the experience might be useful to a few.
I used the Danoland DIY instructions. They are very useful and about 95% of what I needed. Interestingly enough it talks about removing the strut brace, but never actually says to do it. I was ready to remove the valve covers and said to myself it would be a lot easier if the strut brace were out of there. That generated additional work to deal with the engine hatch cover - which I removed and set aside rather than try to prop it up.
The valves on my NSX have never been adjusted that I know of. And the 97 is scheduled for the service at 30K, 60K then every 60K. My NSX had 63920 miles on it.
All of the valves were out of spec slightly, typically .001 or .002 loose. Cylinder #1 had an exhaust valve far out of spec. That caused me some trouble because the adjuster screw would not turn in any direction. It seems now that the screw was "all the way out" - the screws are captive. As you know #1 exhaust valves are a pain to work on. I had to use a short shaft screwdriver wrapped in a shop towel for grip to eventually get the screw to release. I have no idea why that valve alone was so out of spec.
I used the Honda gasket set that includes the main valve cover gasket, the six washer/grommets, and three doughnut seals. Couldn't find Honda Bond so I used Permatex Ultra gasket sealer/fixer.
I lost one cap nut when removing the front valve cover. I have no idea where it is.
After assembly, I started it. And I was shocked how much quieter the engine was at idle. The sewing machine sound was almost completely gone. The consistent tick tick tick I used to hear was gone - probably because the #1 exhaust sound. I can't prove the car is quicker - but it must be, right?
I used the Danoland DIY instructions. They are very useful and about 95% of what I needed. Interestingly enough it talks about removing the strut brace, but never actually says to do it. I was ready to remove the valve covers and said to myself it would be a lot easier if the strut brace were out of there. That generated additional work to deal with the engine hatch cover - which I removed and set aside rather than try to prop it up.
The valves on my NSX have never been adjusted that I know of. And the 97 is scheduled for the service at 30K, 60K then every 60K. My NSX had 63920 miles on it.
All of the valves were out of spec slightly, typically .001 or .002 loose. Cylinder #1 had an exhaust valve far out of spec. That caused me some trouble because the adjuster screw would not turn in any direction. It seems now that the screw was "all the way out" - the screws are captive. As you know #1 exhaust valves are a pain to work on. I had to use a short shaft screwdriver wrapped in a shop towel for grip to eventually get the screw to release. I have no idea why that valve alone was so out of spec.
I used the Honda gasket set that includes the main valve cover gasket, the six washer/grommets, and three doughnut seals. Couldn't find Honda Bond so I used Permatex Ultra gasket sealer/fixer.
I lost one cap nut when removing the front valve cover. I have no idea where it is.
After assembly, I started it. And I was shocked how much quieter the engine was at idle. The sewing machine sound was almost completely gone. The consistent tick tick tick I used to hear was gone - probably because the #1 exhaust sound. I can't prove the car is quicker - but it must be, right?
Always remove them before you lift the cover is the key.
