Has anyone dynoed the Tubi? Does it have any performance benefit?
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Russ
'91 black/black
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Russ
'91 black/black
Tubi HP gains?
- Thread starter Russ
- Start date
Any comments on the sound of Tubi from New Tubi owners out there? By now most of you should've installed yours, right?
Thanks
[This message has been edited by insx (edited 26 August 2002).]
Thanks
[This message has been edited by insx (edited 26 August 2002).]
Let you know asap. Huckster & myself just got them on Wednesday and havn't installed yet. They look great and the build quality appears good as well. I'm not sure, but if I remember correctly I asked the HP increase ? to Tino and he didn't have any firm numbers, but I believe he mentioned he did a dyno and saw small increases in the curb as is the case w/most muffler mods, but the biggest increases would come w/headers, but who knows for sure. I did a search when the first group buy came up and didn't see any firm results.
[This message has been edited by Tom Larkins (edited 17 August 2002).]
I got my Tubi in the mail today, and installed it just a few hours ago. No noticeable power increase, but the sound is, IMO, very different. Not going to say good or bad yet, I need to drive it a bit more, but definitely different. It's a little "boomy" down low, but I also know that there is a break in period.
I've got headers coming in Tuesday or Wednesday, and can give my impressions of all of those when it comes in.
Overall the fit and finish is pretty nice, but I finished in the dark so can't be too sure...
I've got headers coming in Tuesday or Wednesday, and can give my impressions of all of those when it comes in.
Overall the fit and finish is pretty nice, but I finished in the dark so can't be too sure...
Went to Tubi Style in Holland Michigan to pick it up on monday. Nice place lots of Ferrari stuff all over the ware house. They had about six crates full of new systems they were unloading and re boxing to ship out. They gave me some free t shirts stickers and a tour before I rushed home to put it on .
Tried to take of the old system off the bolts where to rusty I had to cut them off of one side . The next day I went to the dealer to get new seals for it paid 7.50 per . Not bad
I thought to my self until I looked at the bill for the bolts 18.50 x3 (OUCH!) Slaped it on but it was to close to the plastic cover so I had to bend the back brackets to drop it down. It was also off center and tilted so I bent the front bracket on one side it did the trick looks great! The sound
clips dont do it any justice at all . Its sounds much better in person. When you first put it on it smells for a while and it doesnt seam to be as fast. But a few days later the sound got better the smell went away the speed now feals the same as with the stock pipes . The biggest difference is at low speeds the Tubi really gets you noticed and its not to loud at high speeds wich is kind of nice!
Tried to take of the old system off the bolts where to rusty I had to cut them off of one side . The next day I went to the dealer to get new seals for it paid 7.50 per . Not bad
I thought to my self until I looked at the bill for the bolts 18.50 x3 (OUCH!) Slaped it on but it was to close to the plastic cover so I had to bend the back brackets to drop it down. It was also off center and tilted so I bent the front bracket on one side it did the trick looks great! The sound
clips dont do it any justice at all . Its sounds much better in person. When you first put it on it smells for a while and it doesnt seam to be as fast. But a few days later the sound got better the smell went away the speed now feals the same as with the stock pipes . The biggest difference is at low speeds the Tubi really gets you noticed and its not to loud at high speeds wich is kind of nice!
the throaty exhaust comments i've seen have been about the tubi. also referred to as 'ferrari like sound'.
i'll let you know shortly. just got the tubi along with tom and we'll be installing--hopefully--this week.
i'll let you know shortly. just got the tubi along with tom and we'll be installing--hopefully--this week.
My exhaust is throaty and low pitched. I dont know what it is, but Larry at NSX Modified n Cali customized it himself. Good Luck!!! cheers
For you guys that did the install yourself, it sounds like it didn't go to bad. May try it as the local Acura dealer just, quoted $288 just for the install. Have all the tools/floor jack, etc. i need My problem is finding the time to get it on. Did you have to heat the bolts at all to dis-connect or were they faily easy to remove. Would any one try taking to a carx or midas shop, i'm reluctant to do so ???
Just spray some WD-40, should be fine. Let it soak in, try in, rinse, repeat. Eventually they will all come free. This from a weakling.
The one thing you might need is either a breaker bar or a section of pipe to put over your ratchet to get some more leverage. All in all, maybe a 3 hour job, counting the time it took for the WD-40 to soak in. Started at around 5:00, went ahead and removed the cats while I was at it, and took it for a test drive at 10:00. FYI, the bolts in the cat on mine were very rusted, but seem proprietary, so I didn't replace them with new SS ones.
Tom,
$288 is robbery, plain and simple IMO. For a NSX mechanic with a lift, this is a 1 hour job, including the smoke break. It is a pretty straight forward swap.
Use WD40 or PBblaster the night before, let it really soak in good on all 6 nuts, assuming you have a stock exhaust now. Get some 14mm 6 point sockets, shallow and deep. DO NOT USE 12 POINT SOCKETS FOR THIS.
They will be tough to get off, just get a good angle on them with a breaker bar. Order 6 new nuts and new exhaust gaskets (crush ring type, OEM).
Once you get all six nuts off, jockey the OEM exhaust around a little to loosen it up from the cats.
A good idea also is to cover the valance openings, around the OEM tail pipes, with a few layers of wide masking tape BEFORE you remove the OEM exhaust. It will keep the original exhaust from scratching the plastic valance.
A floor jack under the OEM exhaust is nice, since it is on the heavy side. Support it, then slide off all four of the rubber hanger grommets. Once they are off lower the exhaust and get it out of the way.
Take the grommets off and spray all four, both sides with silicone spray. If I recall I installed them on the Tubi, before raising the Tubi into position. (I used a piece of carpet over the jack plate so that beautiful Tubi did not get scratched
.
Install the gaskets on the cats, then raise the Tubi into position. Jockey it around a bit, a helper is really nice for this job, and start each nut and run them in to the specified torque (25 ft.lbs. if I recall, check this though BEFORE tightening,(my memory is not great anymore).
Once the Tubi is in place check to see that the right side tailpipes are not hitting the valance. If so, adjust the rear hanger rods UP on the Tubi, which will lower the tailpipes. You will have to take it out again for this step if required. I noticed in the above post that this is STILL a potential problem with the fitment. I was hopeful this was resolved by now.
If you have any questions private me. Make sure the cats seal completely with the Tubi. If the Tubi flange does not mate perfectly with the cat definately private me, I know exactly what to do. I have done a few.
HTH,
LarryB
[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 19 August 2002).]
$288 is robbery, plain and simple IMO. For a NSX mechanic with a lift, this is a 1 hour job, including the smoke break. It is a pretty straight forward swap.
Use WD40 or PBblaster the night before, let it really soak in good on all 6 nuts, assuming you have a stock exhaust now. Get some 14mm 6 point sockets, shallow and deep. DO NOT USE 12 POINT SOCKETS FOR THIS.
They will be tough to get off, just get a good angle on them with a breaker bar. Order 6 new nuts and new exhaust gaskets (crush ring type, OEM).
Once you get all six nuts off, jockey the OEM exhaust around a little to loosen it up from the cats.
A good idea also is to cover the valance openings, around the OEM tail pipes, with a few layers of wide masking tape BEFORE you remove the OEM exhaust. It will keep the original exhaust from scratching the plastic valance.
A floor jack under the OEM exhaust is nice, since it is on the heavy side. Support it, then slide off all four of the rubber hanger grommets. Once they are off lower the exhaust and get it out of the way.
Take the grommets off and spray all four, both sides with silicone spray. If I recall I installed them on the Tubi, before raising the Tubi into position. (I used a piece of carpet over the jack plate so that beautiful Tubi did not get scratched
Install the gaskets on the cats, then raise the Tubi into position. Jockey it around a bit, a helper is really nice for this job, and start each nut and run them in to the specified torque (25 ft.lbs. if I recall, check this though BEFORE tightening,(my memory is not great anymore).
Once the Tubi is in place check to see that the right side tailpipes are not hitting the valance. If so, adjust the rear hanger rods UP on the Tubi, which will lower the tailpipes. You will have to take it out again for this step if required. I noticed in the above post that this is STILL a potential problem with the fitment. I was hopeful this was resolved by now.
If you have any questions private me. Make sure the cats seal completely with the Tubi. If the Tubi flange does not mate perfectly with the cat definately private me, I know exactly what to do. I have done a few.
HTH,
LarryB
[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 19 August 2002).]
Larry/burbel;
Thanks for the reply. I agree the $280 is way to much. I'm gonna pay them a visit personally just so the tech knows what i'm talking about. Bolts have been soaking in WD-40 for a couple of hrs and they won't move. If the local dealer refuses to go lower his cost i'm just gonna have to do it. I do have a variable speed dye-grinder w/cutting wheel that will make short work of all but the difficult to reach bolts. I think Acura most have quoted me the wrong price, if not i'm gonna ask them if the install comes w/a jar a vacaline too!!! I can't image what there thinking.
Thanks for the reply. I agree the $280 is way to much. I'm gonna pay them a visit personally just so the tech knows what i'm talking about. Bolts have been soaking in WD-40 for a couple of hrs and they won't move. If the local dealer refuses to go lower his cost i'm just gonna have to do it. I do have a variable speed dye-grinder w/cutting wheel that will make short work of all but the difficult to reach bolts. I think Acura most have quoted me the wrong price, if not i'm gonna ask them if the install comes w/a jar a vacaline too!!! I can't image what there thinking.
Sounds like the perfect excuse to pick up a compressor and an air wrench...
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Russ
'91 black/black
Actually, pick up PB Blaster like Larry recommended. It really works and it designed for that task. In my experience, WD-40 doesn't do a thing on rusted exhaust bolts.
-Jim
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1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1991 NSX Blk/Blk Auto #3070 (Sold)
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
http://homepage.mac.com/jimanders/PhotoAlbum1.html
-Jim
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1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1991 NSX Blk/Blk Auto #3070 (Sold)
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
http://homepage.mac.com/jimanders/PhotoAlbum1.html
I would take a look at the TAITEC GT-Lightweight for that type of sound.
Cheers,
-- Chris
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Revolutionize your NSX with ScienceofSpeed
www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520
Tom
I did the WD4o thing soaked it for two days!
All it did was make a nice flame once my tourch hit it. Larry is right take somthing and cover your tips once you let one side off the other side wants to scrape your plastic. 280 bucks thats US holly cow the dealer over here in canada only wanted $85 canadian. I would do it your self its prety strait forward good luck!
I did the WD4o thing soaked it for two days!
All it did was make a nice flame once my tourch hit it. Larry is right take somthing and cover your tips once you let one side off the other side wants to scrape your plastic. 280 bucks thats US holly cow the dealer over here in canada only wanted $85 canadian. I would do it your self its prety strait forward good luck!
Tom,
As a few folks mentioned the PBblaster is really good. When you spray it, keep your face away, is has a nasty smell, and you can tell it's working as it kind of foams up.
These nuts will be tough to loosen no doubt. But... Honda has always done a good job with fasteners. You will notice that the studs on the cats are pretty large in diameter. They thought about this when they built these exhaust systems. With the PB and a beaker bar, BY HAND, they will break loose. You want to get a good secure position with the breaker bar. Please remember 6 POINT SOCKET ONLY. Use a shallow one for most of them, you will probably need a 6" extension for the right side.
I always remove these by hand, so I can feel when they break free. Once cracked free I run them off with the air gun.
As mentioned above, IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCED AT IT, with a SMALL TIP torch (acyetelene SP?) you can get them glowing red, and they will come right off. I tend to avoid recommending this, since it can be very damaging if you are not familiar with using it.
HTH,
LarryB
[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 20 August 2002).]
As a few folks mentioned the PBblaster is really good. When you spray it, keep your face away, is has a nasty smell, and you can tell it's working as it kind of foams up.
These nuts will be tough to loosen no doubt. But... Honda has always done a good job with fasteners. You will notice that the studs on the cats are pretty large in diameter. They thought about this when they built these exhaust systems. With the PB and a beaker bar, BY HAND, they will break loose. You want to get a good secure position with the breaker bar. Please remember 6 POINT SOCKET ONLY. Use a shallow one for most of them, you will probably need a 6" extension for the right side.
I always remove these by hand, so I can feel when they break free. Once cracked free I run them off with the air gun.
As mentioned above, IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCED AT IT, with a SMALL TIP torch (acyetelene SP?) you can get them glowing red, and they will come right off. I tend to avoid recommending this, since it can be very damaging if you are not familiar with using it.
HTH,
LarryB
[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 20 August 2002).]
Can anybody compare the Tubi exhaust to the RM exhaust in terms of loudness. I know the tone quality is much different. I'm just looking to quiet down my NSX just a bit.
-RM Headers
-CT High Flow Cats
-RM Exhaust
-RM Headers
-CT High Flow Cats
-RM Exhaust
Macster,
This was exactly my situation. I had the RM for two years, loved the sound, but it got louder with age. My neighbors were starting to look at me in a strange way
.
So I was looking for a nice sound, not too quiet(since I actually really liked the RM) but quiet enough to remain friends with my neighbors and actually have the ability to hear the stereo again!
The Tubi is all that, IMO. The sound is "F355ish" but not exactly, it's unique. I am very pleased with it. As Tino mentioned it even gets better with age. You will search for tunnels once you put it on. Even now that I can enjoy the stereo, I use it infrequently, since the better stereo is coming from behind my head
.
My good freind Miled just got his, he also has the RM now. Once he heard mine and Keiths' (another NE member), he placed his order.
BTW, I also have RM headers. I left them on, just swapped cat back for the Tubi install.
One more thing, the original question on this thread was about performance gains. I have not dynoed my car, but I feel there is no performance gain, a little weight saving, thats it. I certainly did not install the Tubi and go WOW I'm flying now!! If you are looking for HP this is not the place to spend the money, IMO.
HTH,
LarryB
[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 20 August 2002).]
This was exactly my situation. I had the RM for two years, loved the sound, but it got louder with age. My neighbors were starting to look at me in a strange way
So I was looking for a nice sound, not too quiet(since I actually really liked the RM) but quiet enough to remain friends with my neighbors and actually have the ability to hear the stereo again!
The Tubi is all that, IMO. The sound is "F355ish" but not exactly, it's unique. I am very pleased with it. As Tino mentioned it even gets better with age. You will search for tunnels once you put it on. Even now that I can enjoy the stereo, I use it infrequently, since the better stereo is coming from behind my head
My good freind Miled just got his, he also has the RM now. Once he heard mine and Keiths' (another NE member), he placed his order.
BTW, I also have RM headers. I left them on, just swapped cat back for the Tubi install.
One more thing, the original question on this thread was about performance gains. I have not dynoed my car, but I feel there is no performance gain, a little weight saving, thats it. I certainly did not install the Tubi and go WOW I'm flying now!! If you are looking for HP this is not the place to spend the money, IMO.
HTH,
LarryB
[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 20 August 2002).]
As long as I'm spending the money on a new exhaust I'd like to know the value proposition. If the only benefit of the Tubi is that it kind of makes an NSX sound like a Ferrari, but is heavy and expensive, and comparing that to an exhaust which also sounds very good and is lighter and less costly and also frees up a few HP (I'm thinking Taitec) , then that all figures into the equation. Moreover the $1K price difference in these two exhausts could be dollars used to buy more go-fast crack.
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Russ
'91 black/black
Russ, I think HP gains are very similar on all aftermarket exhausts. The Ferrari sound is for many peoiple (me included) one of the best solling points for the cars from Maranello, so if you ar enot interested in this you definitely won't need a Tubi.
The weight of the Tubi is also very low, I do not think you can go much lower for that kind of exhaust without going to titanium.
Overall the Tubi is good in all aspects (as long as you like the sound) but it is a little pricey...
The weight of the Tubi is also very low, I do not think you can go much lower for that kind of exhaust without going to titanium.
Overall the Tubi is good in all aspects (as long as you like the sound) but it is a little pricey...
Is PB Blaster the same thing as Liquid Wrench?
As somewhat familiar with exhausts, I'll chime in here. It is well known and a fact of life (unfortunately) that many people in the aftermarket business have exagerated the HP benefit of a cat-back exhaust mounted behind catalytic converters. These claims come from distributors and sometime from muffler-shops-turned-manufacturers. The truth is that because of the restrictive nature of cats and the fidderential in pressure and flow between their two ends, the gains in HP are really minimal, and that applies to ALL cat-back systems, Russ !
