My NSX trunk will not shut, I check out the hook on the latch and it does rotated but will not hook into the "U." Is this a common problem and what can I do to repair this myself? Do I need to replace the assembly or is it has something to do with lack or lub or something similar?
Not sure @BD is very active on here. This thread is 14 years old & his last post was in early 2023.
EDIT: First check that you are closing the trunk correctly, as the trunk lid was optimised for weight and is fairly bendy. Do NOT press on the spoiler, do NOT press at the outside edges of the trunk lid and DEFINITELY DO NOT slam the trunk lid. To close the trunk lid correctly, press the trunk lid itself, directly over the striker, to engage the striker in the latch. Same for the front hood.
Check the latch operation. If the trunk won't latch, check that it is not already latched somehow, but not around the striker. Check that the latch is in the open position and check if the trunk-open indicator on the gauge cluster is illuminated. If the latch is already "latched", you won't be able to get the striker on the trunk lid into the latch; use the key to release it.
Mechanical Latch Test:
With the trunk open and the latch "open", use the shaft of a small screwdriver as a substitute striker and see if the latch latches correctly. An Allen key held with a Vice-Grips works well too. There may be two click positions. The trunk-open indicator should go out. Once the latch is fully latched, it should not "open" when you try to pull it up with the screwdriver shaft. Don't reef on it; just use the shaft to give it a pull and see if it remains latched. If it does, turn the trunk key and you should see the latch pop open. I'd also check to be sure it releases correctly with the driver door button as well.
If the latch is working but the trunk lid won't remain closed, you have an alignment issue with the striker, which is difficult to explain over a keyboard, but you might find some useful pics in this thread, especially of the latch after removal (in the open position) and the service manual diagram:
Search turned up empty. After the trunk upholstery was out (related? not?) for rewiring my LED tail lights, problems with the gauge cluster trunk-open indicator and the alarm system:
The trunk-open dash indicator comes on for the initial test but then stays lit whether the trunk is closed or not.
The alarm will not activate.
Trunk light illuminates, so the trunk light fuse is OK.
Test: trunk latch sensor unplugged at C559. Trunk-open indicator extinguishes and the alarm arms normally.
Since the dash indicator (green/black wire?) and the alarm (white wire?) circuits are...
A number of possible issues. Some context would be useful.
- did you pop the trunk and it now fails to latch closed?
- is this a one off or has it been getting gradually harder to latch the trunk closed?
- did the trunk release on its own and now fails to latch?
There a several possibilities here.
- you have an electrical problem which is causing the trunk release solenoid to remain permanently engaged e.g. the trunk latch switch button is stuck in the operated position
- the latch itself has broken
- the latch mechanism and or the operating cable is just sticky
- the solenoid mechanism operating the latch is jamming
The trunk release solenoid is located remotely from the latch and connected to the latch by a cable. Removing the trunk liner on the left side and the back wall of the trunk will expose the solenoid, the cable and the trunk latch. Once this is done, you can
- unplug the solenoid (2 pin plug). If the solenoid releases and the latch can be latched then you know you have an 'electrical stuck on' problem somewhere
- unbolt the solenoid from the trunk wall and this will allow you to remove it and disconnect the cable that goes to the latch. This should allow you to manually operate the release cable to the latch. If the cable operates the latch smoothly then you may have a solenoid problem of some kind (I think that might be a first).
- with the cable detached from the solenoid if you don't get smooth operation of the cable and release of the latch then you have a problem with the cable and / or the latch. The low hanging fruit fix would be to clean the latch and cable of any obvious grunge and then try lubricating them to see if this resolves the problem. If that does not resolve the problem then you may have a failed latch mechanism or a cable problem which requires replacement.
You can also just skip all of the above and squirt a hell of a lot of silicone oil into the exposed part of the latch to see if this resolves the problem. I am not a particular fan of this because all that excess oil is going someplace and if it is grunge that is impeding the smooth operation of the latch the problem is likely to return.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
