trouble with slave- help?

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19 September 2011
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Northern New Jersey
All:

Am replacing clutch slave [ Wagner, got it from Rock]- when I put it in and started bleeding, the rod that should touch throw out yoke went off center, came too far out and the piston wedged [ needed pliers to move it]. I took it apart, hoped that the piston seals and walls were not damaged and tried again- same thing.

What am I missing in lining it up, I am working from top and bottom. Air box removed.

My temp thought is to put the old one back in [ only Master was leaking ]- but am concerned I'll blow the old one out too, or blow out the next one I order.

thoughts?

_DSC2939.jpg
 
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Are you trying to bleed it without it being installed? If so - don't do that. Install it. Then bleed it. The piston won't go out too far - which sounds like your problem.
 
Solved - All the posts on Prime said to install the slave from above - each time I did it though, the piston misaligned with the fork and caused the blow out above. Which leads me to wonder if installing from above is the best procedure for a 2002+. On my third attempt, I installed the slave, but this time I checked the alignment before attempting to bleed. The boot on the transmission has drain slits so you can stick your finger in and feel the piston. It was misaligned, so I lowered the shift linkage, backed off the bolts holding the slave and was able to push the piston back and pop it into place. I ended up using the guts of the new slave and rebuilding the old slave because I believe I scarred the new slave - So we'll see how long it lasts. In future, I'll only attempt this from below, it was much easier this way.. The Master Cylinder was a breeze, especially the clutch pin- see picture- that is 10lbs braided fishing line [it can compress flat] through a hole drilled in a pull tie - it took 30 seconds to put it in. Master Cylinder Clutch Pin install
clutch pin.jpg
 
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1991-99 installing the slave cylinder from the top is fine. 2000-2005 pretty much impossible to install from the top due to the airpump system and associated parts(right by the slave cylinder and in the way;)) Ask me how I know:):)

HTH,
LarryB
 
Solved - All the posts on Prime said to install the slave from above - each time I did it though, the piston misaligned with the fork and caused the blow out above. Which leads me to wonder if installing from above is the best procedure for a 2002+. On my third attempt, I installed the slave, but this time I checked the alignment before attempting to bleed. The boot on the transmission has drain slits so you can stick your finger in and feel the piston. It was misaligned, so I lowered the shift linkage, backed off the bolts holding the slave and was able to push the piston back and pop it into place. I ended up using the guts of the new slave and rebuilding the old slave because I believe I scarred the new slave - So we'll see how long it lasts. In future, I'll only attempt this from below, it was much easier this way.. The Master Cylinder was a breeze, especially the clutch pin- see picture- that is 10lbs braided fishing line [it can compress flat] through a hole drilled in a pull tie - it took 30 seconds to put it in. Master Cylinder Clutch Pin install
View attachment 98433

Your solution to the clutch retaining pin is brilliant. Replacing that was a complete hassle for me. And my hands are not too big and I can maneuver pretty well. As for the slave, working from above on my 1997 was easy. I saw no reason at all to get under the car.
 
Larry, doing the slave 2 times from above and once from below may have been the most brutal job I've ever done.
I am a firm believer that it can't be done from above - each time it misaligned - I ordered a new slave just to have one around --

Thanks for the good word Hoffam.
 
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