Transmission Fluid

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I had my clutch replaced last year, does that mean the transmission fluid was changed as well? I'm having difficulties getting into first and reverse.
 
I had my clutch replaced last year, does that mean the transmission fluid was changed as well? I'm having difficulties getting into first and reverse.

Yes, they can't do the clutch change without it. Having difficulties getting it in gear can mean..

1.) The synchros are worn/bad.
2.) The linkage between the shifter and the transmission is out of alignment or went bad.
3.) The clutch is bad.
4.) The transmission is bad.
5.) The fluid is really really bad - but I highly doubt it, unless the car has 300K miles and the guy recylced the fluid. Or, maybe he put in the wrong fluid - that COULD BE IT. That would really suck, the wrong fluid will burn your synchros.

In short, that sucks to hear!
 
Try using GM synchromesh 1qt regluar and 2qt friction modified, but some people change the clutch without changing the transmission oil.

I had a problem with first and reverse on my first NSX, Redline oil did not help, but the synchromesh worked.
 
..give us more details on the car too. Age, mileage, any other work?

When they took the clutch and tranny out, they should have been able to do some inspection and tell you how the tranny is looking.

If the synchros were out, I'd imagine they would have told you that.
..If you didn't take it to Honda or a good shop, my fear is they put in the wrong transmission oil, and that will wear and kill your synchros! Dont ask me how I know!!.. .ok not from my experience, but from others...
 
It's fairly easy and inexspensive to change the fluid. Use the Honda (white cap) stuff from the dealer. I did and it helped mine, but I did not have your problems. I changed mine because the previous owner had no records. I did notice an improvement in ease/smoothness of shifting after the change though. Good Luck!
 
Thanks guys. The car is a 1991 with 80k miles when the clutch was done. I'm up to 88k now. Tranny is not in snap ring, so thats good. I would say maybe 1 out of 10 shifts into first would not go in all the way. I would have to put it back into neutral, release the clutch, engage the clutch again and shift. It seems that I have to release and re-engage the clutch when in neutral before going back into first, otherwise it doesnt go in all the way.

For reverse, almost all, if not 9/10 shifts is difficult. It goes in, but just not smoothly. Requires some brute strength compared to the other gears.

I have no idea what exactly my mechanic did. All I told him was to replace the clutch and I supplied a new one. I doubt he took apart the tranny. Let me give him a call and see I can get more info out of him.
 
I had my clutch replaced last year, does that mean the transmission fluid was changed as well? I'm having difficulties getting into first and reverse.

A few questions:

What year car?
Which clutch is in the car?
How many miles on this clutch?
Is this a sudden new symptom?
What is the fluid level in the clutch reservoir?
Has the clutch pedal feel changed in any way?

Regards,
LarryB
 
What year car?
1991

Which clutch is in the car?
OEM NA1 Clutch

How many miles on this clutch?
8k miles

Is this a sudden new symptom?
Reverse has always been like this, hard to get into. First gear is becoming more apparent and I'm noticing it more. I would say its a gradual symptom.

What is the fluid level in the clutch reservoir?
Full

Has the clutch pedal feel changed in any way?
There was an air bubble in the clutch line when the clutch was first installed. The clutch grabbed really low, sometimes not disengaging. I believe the air bubble is gone since the clutch "grabs" high now.
 
OK, First thing I would recommend is to have the clutch initialized. It sounds like they may have not fully initialized it from the beginning. This is a classis symptom of not fully disengaging.

Just so I am 100% clear, this was a NEW OEM clutch?

HTH,
LarryB
 
OK, First thing I would recommend is to have the clutch initialized. It sounds like they may have not fully initialized it from the beginning. This is a classis symptom of not fully disengaging.

Just so I am 100% clear, this was a NEW OEM clutch?

HTH,
LarryB


Larry, what's 'initialized' :) ?
 
Larry, what's 'initialized' :) ?

Take a look at this: http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/info/acura-nsx-service_manual_91/7_transax_1_clutch.pdf

A couple easy/cheap things you can do is bleed the brake fluid from your clutch master/slave system. That will cost you about $5 for a quart. I use the Prestone Synthetic Brake Fluid from Wal-Mart. It comes in a quart bottle that is bright yellow, you can't miss it. Drain and replace the tranny fluid with Acura/Honda MTF. 3 quarts at $6 ea, $18.

Let us know what that does for you. When I first got my NSX I made up a concoctation of Mobil 1 10w30 oil, Lucas Oil stabilizer and some friction reducer (Energy Release) thinking that I was really smart. NOT A GOOD THING. I was grinding just about every gear, including reverse. I drained it out and put in the Honda MTF and WALA no more grinding. Get after it.
Brad
 
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