Too much Caster?

Joined
4 September 2002
Messages
515
Location
San Francisco, CA
My front wheels look too close to the rear fender liner so I have an alignment shop adjust more positive caster. I track my car 4-5 times a years.

Front left Front right
Caster 9.3 9.4
camber -1.3 -1.3
Toe -1.7 -1.7

Rear left Rear right
camber -2.6 -2.6
Toe 2.2 2.2

My questions is will I get more over steering with more positive caster? How does it effect the handing?

Thanks,
 
I didn't even think that you could adjust caster on the NSX...
 
You can adjust caster on the NSX, its at the bottom of the compliance assembly youll see the hatched lobes, they stick sometimes. Generally on my track cars I've always maxed out the caster, on the RSX I actually have added an aftermarket caster plate that increase the angle over stock and ads a tad bit of extra compression. As they say "Caster is faster". I think your settings are fine.
 
So why do we not ever talk about caster settings? only camber and toe. What should caster be set at for a track/street NSX?
 
So why do we not ever talk about caster settings? only camber and toe. What should caster be set at for a track/street NSX?


LOL, because we all go toward maximum caster.

- - - Updated - - -

To the OP, you sure you have the cambers correct with more camber on the rear than the front? As for caster, were you sitting in the car when he made the alignment?
 
Caster also makes steering with a non PS car MUCH easier.

I always thought positive caster tends to "center" the wheels straight ahead, increasing straight-line stability, at the expense of INCREASED steering effort.
 
I should have added "at a stop"- like when you are turning our of a parking spot. Maxing caster is was the only way I could even turn the wheel to parallel park my old ae86. The wheel feel may indeed be different at speed, I personally never had it anything but maxed so its just 'normal' to me. It not a bad thing to have more stability and a dampening effect at speed, most cars with electronic steering build that very thing in, in fact. My CBR has an electronic one that only kicks on at 50+mph. Not apples to apples and i'm not over-claiming the benefits, but you get the idea.

Try it and see, i dont think the stock adjustment range is wide enough to start to see true negative affects over steering feel.
 
Dave, what is your current caster? Most likely the shop already maxed it out. Most do.

He told me its not adjustable.... so its probably whatever it came with from the factory.
 
From what I understand:

1. Caster is relatively high on the NSX to return the steering wheel to center more aggressively thus creating a car that "knows where straight ahead is" when you let go of the wheel.

2. Caster on an un-equal length control arm suspension (like the S2000) allows you to "gain" negative camber after the turn-in phase, or, the more the steering wheel is turned, the more negative camber is gained. However, the NSX has equal length control arms, so....what exactly is the relatively high amount of caster doing other than "straightening the steering wheel", I mean, I can do that with my hands :-)

3. In order to gain more camber without the use of aftermarket bushings/ball joints, caster can be dialed back to facilitate an increase in negative camber, or is it toe that would need to be sacraficed? Sorry I can't remember, but I want to say it was the caster that needs to be lessened on my car if I want more negative camber?

Which leads me to my last thought, why not try 0 toe in front, 5-6 degree caster, and go for -2.0 camber? I was told the front end would feel much more nervous on the highway and rutted roads with this setup, but, this is TRACK TALK and I really don't care that much if my car is a little more sensitive on the street if it dials out some of the understeer I'm facing at the limit on-track. It would be nice to hear an explanation from Honda as to why the stock alignment specs, namely the high amount of caster, were chosen but that ain't gonna happen. Any experts want to chime in?
 
I don't claim to be an expert but reducing the caster will reduce the feedback you get from the grip available from your front wheels.
The same happens on a motorbike: less caster makes the bike swifter to turn in but you get less feedback and ultimately you can get a high speed wobble.
When I bought my NSX, the toe was set the wrong way around...
The seller told me to be aware because the car could move very suddenly in an uncontrollable oversteer.
It was really unbelievable because as soon as you turned the steering wheel you felt the rear wanting to go around!
Luckily, I had the wheels aligned and the car behaved normally again.
All this to say that going to zero toe in could be dangerous!
 
I assume those toe numbers are in mm, not degrees right? Otherwise, that'll be a funky-handling car for sure.

Also, for a tracked car, I'd expect the front camber to be a little more aggressive than it is, although still less than the rear. I tend to run 2.0 degrees front and ~2.5 degrees rear (about the same as you in the rear). My pyrometer seems to indicate that's about right for the aggressive street tires I run.
 
Ok, we could have done a search, this clears some things up for me I guess: alignment FAQ

The only thing I take issue with is the "gaining neg camber" with more caster on an NSX, I was told by an engineer that an equal length control arm suspension will NOT gain camber during cornering with more caster, or caster simply does not have that effect on an equal length control arm suspension?

Of interest to me were these comments:

"My guess is that the stock settings provide more margin for panic and bad driver inputs in emergency situations. I've long since learned how to keep my foot in the throttle if the back end is coming out."

"Honda claims that removing the front toe-out will decrease the steering stability at the high speeds needed to earn cookies. I have not tested this, but if you intend to drive at high speed (say, above 135 mph), you might want to consider this caution."

CB72- thanks for posting, I shouldn't have said "expert" but guys with alot of track experience in the NSX and experience with the effect of different alignments on our cars at the track! So, more caster is equated to more steering effort but also more high speed stability?

The NSX is indeed a different breed of sports car. I was used to the S2000, which was pretty straight forward in terms of alignment on a relatively stock set-up for hard track driving. Sorry to the OP if I'm jacking this thread, but the effect of caster on these cars was something I was wondering about since driving mine on the track. In reference to how my car was aligned last time, we ended up with too little front camber for my specific style of driving (-.03) and I am trying to pin-point the handling difficulties I was having both times on-track: understeer, pretty much everywhere. Also we had -2 degrees camber at the rear, toe was factory spec on both front and rear as well as caster...its my understanding that negative camber can shift the grip balance of the car, front to rear, so: hardly any camber in front with a healthy amount at the rear is going to introduce a bias twords understeer? Suspension, alignment, and set up for track driving is tricky business. So many variables to consider, and even then the driver has to be comfortable with how its all working at speed, even on a 91 NSX on Billsteins, stock springs, and RE11's!

As far as toe, the FAQ seemed to confirm most of my understanding of it: in the front-more toe OUT = more turn-in but too much is going to get the rotation happening too early, while toe IN = understeer on turn-in and oversteer mid-corner. At the rear-more toe OUT = over-rotation and this should only be used perhaps on FWD or "drift" cars, while toe IN = passive rear steer for more high speed stability, something BMW has been fond of using on their road cars for a while. Its intersting to me how the Honda engineers chose a hint of toe out at the front on a car that, on paper, should already turn-in sharply, but their decision to do this was more influenced by dialing in a slight understeer during cornering?
 
in general auto manufacturers aim for under-steer as the safe setup since the average driver when faced with peril will brake.And in the era of alb folks are told to mash brakes and steer ....
 
0 Toe all around is perfectly safe and normal, I only run 0* toe on my track only and daily drivers. I think ive said it before but the increase factory toe in the REAR of the NSX was a fix for the bushing design. In a heavy cornering condition the rear bushings deflect and give, this causes toe out. To account for that the OEM spec on the earlier models was around -6* toe in.

Heres and example: Under hard cornering with OEM toe and bushings the rear wheel would start at -6*, as it compressed the toe would ramp up and under full compression and bushing load you end up at 0* toe.
Then people complained about excessive wear on tires and Hondas response was to reduce the factory toe settings to -4* and leave the bushings.

Now in that same corner with the same forces and OEM bushing you go from -4* OEM spec and still ramp through the 6* of toe now ending at +2* toe OUT under load, which makes the back end feel skittish.

If you remove the OEM bushings and replace them with solid spherical ones you effectively remove that change in toe. That being said you can also remove the band aid fix honda did BECAUSE of the OEM bushings and return to a normal lower toe setting. I personally choose 0 toe all around since I drive the car on R compounds 100miles to the track.
 
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0If you remove the OEM bushings and replace them with solid spherical ones you effectively remove that change in toe. That being said you can also remove the band aid fix honda did BECAUSE of the OEM bushings and return to a normal lower toe setting. I personally choose 0 toe all around since I drive the car on R compounds 100miles to the track.

Aew you talking about the non compliance rear beam bushings and toe links or something else? There are still bushings in the rear beam we choose to not replace... I don't know why...

anyway this was Billy Johnson so I have been going with the settings he runs on his own car. This is with 32/32 PSI cold

For beginners:

Camber:
Front: -1.0* EDIT: -0.5* would probably be better for beginners with -1.5* rear camber
Rear: -1.5*

Toe:
Front: 2mm OUT
Rear: 4-5mm IN

For most people (settings on my personal car):

Camber:
Front: -1.5* (which is probably close to the max you can get given stock constraints)
Rear: -2.5*

Toe:
Front: 2mm OUT
Rear: 2-3mm IN


Performance/track focused: (at the slight sacrifice of street tire wear)

Camber:
Front: -2* to -2.5* -3.0* could work too with corresponding setup.
Rear: -2.5* to -3*

Toe:
Front: 0-2mm OUT
Rear: 0-4mm IN
 
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