To replace or not to replace (clutch)

Joined
14 August 2003
Messages
20
Location
southern ca
A quick celebration for a new owner and his first NSX! I got a lot of help along the way from fellow primers while searching for it and am eternally grateful. I hope to return the favor soon.

I have a 97 yel/blk with 62K. It's only had a new O2 sensor and brake pads other than the standard oil changes. I have had the car for about a week and put together a list of "would be good to fix" items and am requesting the opinion of knowledgeable primers on what they would do. The items are:
1. battery- no brainer of course (main problem right now)

2. coolant is leaking- probably the plastic expansion tank
a. should I just replace it with an OEM plastic one or a polished metal one?
b. where can I buy a polished one?
c. I am getting condensation on the inside of the trunk lid after driving it.
d. There is also lots of condensation in the tail light lenses and wing LEDs. Maybe from the engine coolant?

3. timing belt- I've read all about this on NSXPrime

4. while the engine is out for the timing belt should I replace the clutch knowing there's 62K miles on the car?
a. I am not a racer and plan on putting about 5K miles a year on the car (it is a second car).
b. If I should replace the clutch which clutch should it be?
c. How many miles do stock clutches last on an NSX?
d. The current clutch is working fine, no slippage.

I'd love to know what you guys think about this and look forward to the discussion and thanks much in advance.
 
I'd definitely do the timing belt and have them do the 60k mile service at the same time to save some labor costs..JMO. Oh and btw congrats on the new car :)
 
Demigod is right on. That is long life for the clutch but I don't think there's a cost savings with the 60K/timing belt work. If this is your queen, let it go. I would be remiss not to mention the NSXCA discounts available at the fine retailers that service the community when you look for the required expansion tank. Welcome
 
I believe they pull the engine to do the timing belt (easiest way for the pros) so since it is already out, doing the clutch is mostly parts costs and not much labor. I'd estimate the savings to be most of an R&R of the engine which I have heard is 10 hours (about $850).

When you say let it go, do you mean I should wait to do the clutch? Any idea of the life expectancy of a stock clutch if the car isn't driven too hard? I guess I could wait to do both the timing belt and the clutch, but I'm not sure how long I should put off doing the timing belt. The 64K question.
 
I wouldn't rely too heavily on a clutch with that many miles in a car like the NSX. As long as the plate and flywheel face are ok, I would consider replacing just the disks. Costs less than a full replacement.
 
3. You don't have to do the timing belt this early, the recommended TB schedule for the 97+ NSXs is 84 months or 105K miles. So you still have another year or so to go.

4. If the clutch was driven by people who know how to drive manual transmission vehicles, it'll last well beyond 85K miles.

Congrats on joining the spa yellow club :)
 
.....while the engine is out for the timing belt.....

Whomever is telling you the engine needs to be removed from the car, just to replace the timing belt, has been drinking heavily. The engine stays in the car for this task.
 
.....I believe they pull the engine to do the timing belt (easiest way for the pros).....

Actually, not true at all. I know of a pro that dropped the engine to do the timing belt, "just for fun". But this was at his shop with lift and air tools. Same pro did the timing belt on my car with the engine in place. How good of a pro, you might be wondering? He did it in less than a full eight hour work day - in a one-car garage.
 
Some of the original questions haven't been answered, so let's go back a second...

buzrob said:
2. coolant is leaking- probably the plastic expansion tank
a. should I just replace it with an OEM plastic one or a polished metal one?
b. where can I buy a polished one?
You can go either way. You can get a polished metal one from Dali Racing.

buzrob said:
c. I am getting condensation on the inside of the trunk lid after driving it.
It's possible there is a leak, and/or it's possible that something wet was left in the trunk and the lining is still wet. Let it dry out (trunk lid open) for a day or two. It may be gone entirely, or it may return after driving in the rain; if the latter, you have a leak.

buzrob said:
d. There is also lots of condensation in the tail light lenses and wing LEDs. Maybe from the engine coolant?
No, the only way those parts will have condensation in them is if they are cracked or if the rubber seal is broken - probably cracked, if you look closely. You can try removing the lenses and drilling a hole in the bottom, which may or may not cure the problem. Or, you can replace them. I've never heard of condensation in the wing LED but I can only assume that the same is true.

buzrob said:
3. timing belt- I've read all about this on NSXPrime

4. while the engine is out for the timing belt should I replace the clutch knowing there's 62K miles on the car?
I would definitely do only the 60K service at this time, plus a coolant flush (which is part of the 45K/75K/105K service), since that was apparently not done on time. I agree with others that you do not need to worry about the timing belt for another year. I would also not replace the clutch, as long as there are no signs of slipping. A clutch replacement is a major expenditure, and you should wait until it needs replacement. There is little to be gained from doing it at the same time as doing the 60K service now.
 
Well,

Only one thing to add in regard to the clutch. This is a 1997 so it is the dual mass flywheel, replacement is the only option and the list on the flywheel is $2000+, the NSXCA discount will get you to about $1500 + the clutch cost, another $700(I recall). So this is a pretty expensive "preventative measure". If it is fine, I would wait, you may get a few years out of it at 5K a year. JMO

The R&R of the engine is really at the discretion of the tech. As Andy says it is not required. Since I do not have a two post lift, I do it in the car:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
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