Tail Light lens removal

Joined
12 November 2002
Messages
95
Location
Sugarland, Texas
Greetings fellow members:

Does anybody know, how to remove the tail light lens from the rest of the tail light housing. I have moisture inside the rear light. What I am trying to do is to remove the cover from the rest of the light and clean it and then seal it back with silicone.
Any response will be greatly appreciated.

You can email me at [email protected]

Thankyou

Best regards
 
1-Once you have the center light off the car, you can use a heat gun and slowly heat up the present sealent and carefully pry apart the light assembly.
or
2-submerge the light in some nearly boiling water for a few minutes and again carefully pry the light apart.
TAKE YOUR TIME AND EXCERCISE EXTREME PATIENCE
The best way to rid the rear tail lights of any kind of interior moisture is to drill tiny holes along the bottom edges. This allows moisture to escape and balances the interior light temperature with the ambient temp.
Good luck
 
Be careful doing this. The center lens wasn't that hard but the others, well, let's just say I did one and didn't bother to do the other. I cleaned as much glue off as I could but even still, the lens didn't go back together right. After it went back on the car, I hear small cracking sounds and then I saw little fractures on the lens. Well, now my car has the JDM tail lights.

Even with the tail light completely sealed with silicone, the car still accumulated just as much water after washes in the tail lamps. I really believe the issue with mine was that the gasket behind each tail lamp (the black spongy gasket) was just kinda crushed an didn't provide a good seal after all these years. If you want to stop the moisture, I would start by buying one of these gaskets and seeing if it helps. If it works, buy the other although I have no idea how much they cost. The new JDM lights on my car don't accumulate any moisture at all.
 
Be careful when you boil the lens, they might not crack right away, but after you finished the mod and glue everything back on, you might see mini fractures all over the inside of the lens. So, think twice before you do it.

Henry.
 
I just checked the part cost online for the gasket and according to http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org, the part is only $26.04 for the large gasket, $15.57 for the small gasket. This is per side, so it's $41.61 each side, $83.62 total. It's definitely worth trying to replace one side with that part versus taking the lens apart and possibly destroying your tail light.
 
i attempted this feat and was successful, however, it didn't last. the moisture returned. once i had an extra set, i experimented with the drilling of small holes on the underside of the lens (if you perform a search, you'll find the thread explaining this in more detail). this seemed to work very well. the holes weren't noticeable either.

on another note, i just ordered new gaskets for my 2003 tail lights and it cost me $75 or so. i didn't see the schematic, but i was told that there are 4 pieces total (2 on each side)
 
Rear Tail Light Lens Removal

Thanks to everyone who replied to my question on removing the rear lens from the tail lights. Its incredible how we all share the same problems with our cars. Anyway, I think I will go with NSX-STER's advice and try the heat gun and see if it works.

My best regards to everyone. This is an excellent forum.
 
If I am reading NSX-ster's posts correctly, I think he is talking about the center "light" (there is no light in there!) which many of us (including me) have taken apart to change out the decal (I used the hair-dryer rather than hot water method).
However I think the light units are a whole different proposition - maybe NSX-ster can correct me if I have misunderstood, but I don't think he has taken apart a light, just the centre unit.
I think the drilling of holes is a generally accepted method once the seal has begun to leak, not just unique to NSX's but many other cars (including my Caddy STS).
 
ah, yes. i did NOT separate the outer tails, just the center. i did, however, attempt to bake the moisture out of the outer tails and added beads of silicone. worked for a very short time.
 
D'Ecosse said:
If I am reading NSX-ster's posts correctly, I think he is talking about the center "light" (there is no light in there!) which many of us (including me) have taken apart to change out the decal (I used the hair-dryer rather than hot water method).
However I think the light units are a whole different proposition - maybe NSX-ster can correct me if I have misunderstood, but I don't think he has taken apart a light, just the centre unit.
I think the drilling of holes is a generally accepted method once the seal has begun to leak, not just unique to NSX's but many other cars (including my Caddy STS).
D'Ecosse-
You are correct sir. I only took out the center piece(no light) for the heat gun method. I did drill tiny holes in the center piece and both the left and right tail light assemblies. I never had any moisture in the left or right tail lights, but thought while I was in the process of drilling holes I would do them all. Worked out great and not even noticable. Thanks for the correction. I've also had the same experience with the head lights on my Lexus sc400
 
I tried to removed the carpet behind the light but how the heck do you take those plastic fasteners out? I try to unscrew them but they turn and don't come out.

err. anybody want to give me some advice.
thanks in advance
91 nsx.
 
If they are just spinning, leverage behind them with a flat blade while you unscrew them - the tips expand the shaft of the buttons so need to be withdrawn slightly from the button surface so they can pop out.
 
nsxexotic said:
So pull them out and unscrew them at the same time?

thanks.

You have to make sure on these plastic screws that you use very very light pressure when you are unscrewing them. If it still doesn't come out, what you can do is take a small flat tipped screwdriver, jewelers type, and pry the screw out to where you can grab it and yank it out. But I would think that on all your plastic screws that at least one of them would unscrew. You just have to be super light with the pressure.
 
The Acura techs have these pickle fork-type tools (almost like tongs you would use for BBQ) that slip under both sides of the fastener. I use 2 flatblade screwdrivers simultaneously.

Also, about the gaskets...my NSX tech put 2 gaskets behind my taillights to create a tighter fit.

TIP: I found that placing a microfiber cloth (2 total) on either side of the trunk latch before clicking the trunklid shut helps prevent water from rolling off the trunk and into the tail lens housing. And I never drive in rain.
 
I finished my 04 Tail lens conversion 2 weeks ago and so far I have not had a leak (thank goodness) I've already gone to 3 car washes and purposely sprayed the lens/ Trunk area -still no sign of leak. I have not drilled anyholes on my new lens. I think by replacing the gaskets helps seal the lens.

BTW my other Tail lens had not had any leak whatsoever and they are in excellent condition, I may consider selling them if anyone is interested.

I'll keep this page handy incase mine starts to leak. Great advice from everyone.

cheers
 
I never did the outer tail lens but I did do my center when I had moisture build up. I had good success with a simple hair drier instead of a heat gun. The hair drier gets hot enough to soften the adhesive but not hot enough to melt the plastic. It took me about 10 minutes to sepatate the lens. I resealed it with weather strip sealant and it never had any moisture again.
 
Re: Tail Light lens removal - Glue Residue

One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is the use of Ronson lighter fluid to remove glue residue. Takes it right off! I use it to remove what's left on the windshield when replacing inspection stickers and registration stickers. Very little effort in doing this - or you can rub all day with any glass cleaner.
Another gr8 cleaner is WD40. Cleans your hands and takes most any foreign substance off whatever parts you're working on. Super wheel cleaner, etc.
I'm going to try it on removing the Acura logo from my center tail section. Might be better than hair dryers or boiling or etc.
Either of the above should be good for the procedures involving gasketing and silicon sealants. We all tend to get some of that stuff on us when performing such surgery. Keep the WD40 handy!

Zap :smile:
 
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