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The NSX was the 1st car I've had to adjust valves on. I did it during the timing belt job too, and just followed the manual. Pretty straightforward, though there is a bit of a learning curve. You'll feel the right amount of drag on the gauge when it's right. I don't think I got any of the valves dead on the first try. You have a .002 tolerance range, which is about 1/2 the thickness of a sheet of paper, so there's not much play available. Maybe 1/15 of a full screw turn range, assuming .75mm threads. I found it challenging holding the valve steady with 1 tool while using a torque wrench to get the right amount of torque on the nut. The valve kept turning out of spec. I finally put a vise grip on the valve holder to give me enough counter-torque to hold it steady enough. It was also a pain working on the rear valves, as there's less tool space. It's not hard relative to what you've already done.
The NSX was the 1st car I've had to adjust valves on. I did it during the timing belt job too, and just followed the manual. Pretty straightforward, though there is a bit of a learning curve. You'll feel the right amount of drag on the gauge when it's right. I don't think I got any of the valves dead on the first try. You have a .002 tolerance range, which is about 1/2 the thickness of a sheet of paper, so there's not much play available. Maybe 1/15 of a full screw turn range, assuming .75mm threads.
I found it challenging holding the valve steady with 1 tool while using a torque wrench to get the right amount of torque on the nut. The valve kept turning out of spec. I finally put a vise grip on the valve holder to give me enough counter-torque to hold it steady enough. It was also a pain working on the rear valves, as there's less tool space. It's not hard relative to what you've already done.
