Stripped rear suspension linkage

[Juice]

The good news is that I live to tell this. The bad news is that I might rather be dead. The bolt that holds the right rear control arm in came out the other day after giving a Porsche a street beating. I started to feel the car "steer" itself when I pulled off the road to check the suspension. The bolt in question had pulled itself free and was hanging like the ash off of grandpappy's fully smoked cigarette.

I tried to make it home but the thing collapsed on me half way home. I rebuilt the car in a McDonalds parking lot enough to get it home and put her up on stands. After ordering new bolts (had to order 2, 1 for each side), I torqued them to spec and found that my right rear arm just spun free.

It's obviously stripped inside of there. This bolt locks directly into the entire rear suspension main frame. We are talking major tear down from the looks of it. I can't find the part number, and fear what it might run me anyhow. My father suggested Helicoil(sp?), but I need some imput here.

I can't help but think this is just another set back for me with this car. Every time I go to do something, another thing breaks. I'm getting extremely tired of this game and don't know how much more I can take. My local Acura dealer doesn't like to touch my car because it's not stock. Any suggestions?

 

[PorknBeanz]

I just rebuilt my right rear suspension, so this is still freash in my mind. The upper control arm is held in by four bolts that thread into the right rear frame beam. The lower control arm uses two bolts that have nuts. So by process of elimination you must be referring to the rear control arm or toe link arm. It has a single bolt that threads into the rear crossmember. I think Comptech was selling these crossmembers, but I can't find the link anymore. A new one costs about $850. You can probably get the hole welded up and retapped.

 

[Juice]

I just rebuilt my right rear suspension, so this is still freash in my mind.

Did you do the rebuild yourself? I was wondering how hard it would be to do, seeing that an engine mount is also attached to the beam along with a million other things. How long and what skill level?

 

[PorknBeanz]

I was fortunate not to have any stripped threads, so I didn’t have to replace the cross member. I replaced the upper and lower control arms the inner and outer tie rod, shock, spring, swaybar, and knuckle.

Replacing the crossmember looks like a big job. Not difficult technically, but a lot of labor. It looks like you’d have to remove the exhaust system first. I’d estimate about a 10-hr job? An NSX tech would know better.

 

[NSXGeek!]

I assume you are talking about the rear upper arm. Helicoil is an option, however, you may better upsizing the hole or welding and drill/tapping. Keep in mind, that you're going to want to have the cross beam off the car on the bench to do so to get the threads straight. You definitely want to not drive the car anymore until the repair is done.

 

[KANE]

I have spare left and right cradles and a center cross member, e mail me if interested. [email protected]

 

[Juice]

It makes me wonder why Comptec would sell this piece(better built?). I couldn't find the link either, but the cost mentioned above is prohibitive. I will try to find out cost and practicality of weld-n-tap on this piece. This would be something I would leave to the pros.

As for labor, is this something that could be tackled at the same time as a timing belt change? It seems that the whole engine could be dropped after removing the rear cross member. If so, I might as well have both worked on at the same time.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The rear crossmember is 4-5 hours to swap. This is a common task if you are installing the "Comptech" rear beam and toe links.

Juice, the purpose of the toe links and rear beam replacement by Comptech is to eliminate slop in the toe link bushings and rear beam bushings, so the rear is not too loose and unpredicable under severe loads, ala track use.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[KANE]

The Comptech rear beam is not a new replacement piece. It is sold on an exchange basis, they take a stock beam and press out the rubber bushing and replace it with a nylon/aluminum bushing. You have to give them a good condition crossmember as a core.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Kane,

Thanks for clarifying that. I assumed folks would know that, but as I reread my post, it was not that obvious.

BTW, Do you have a rear beam available??

Thanks,
LarryB

 

[KANE]

Hi Larry, I do have a spare beam

 

[Juice]

Is the rear beam made of aluminum? Also, I've looked on Comptech's site again and still don't see the upgrade option. If I'm starting over it would be nice to change out the bushings and such. Does the $800+ include the core charge?

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Sorry for the plug, but the price difference is so significant I thought you may appreciate it...

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...e_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/non-compliance/

Regards,
-- Chris

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Juice,

It DOES NOT include the core. I think Chris is the same situation also. SoS does have a pretty attractive price, none the less

I suggest you contact Kane directly and get a "core" beam.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Juice]

Core beam is being bought and then sent directly to SOS for the upgrades. Call me a mod sucker, but if its broke I might as well beef it up.

So now the question is, what all will be done while the car is ripped apart and who will do it. If I remove the rear beam, I might as well drop the engine and FINALLY have the timing belt and water pump replaced. Also, the trany will be laying there. I plan on FI, so shouldn't this get beefed up at the same time?

Of course, now we are talking pro work. I figure I need to drop the car off at a qualified NSX guy. The closest I know is The Barn Man. Still a couple of states away. There are some here in Columbus, but I don't think they are the ones at the dealerships.

Anyhow, any input would be apreciated.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Juice,

Swapping the rear beam and removing the engine are two WAY different jobs. As I mentioned the beam is a 4-5 hour job. Barney is extremely well versed in t-belt w/engine in the car.

I would say swap the beam, do the t-belt and see where you land. Unless you are going FI immediately the car will be in great shapre at that point.

I would say if you wanted short gears or R&P do that when the clutch goes. (not that I know how the clutch is in your car )

Since you will probably have Barney do it, let him call the shots, no worries about his advice!!

Good Luck, HTH,
LarryB