Strange electrical gremlin on start up - Main relay issue?

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22 September 2005
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77
Experienced a strange issue with my 95 NSX-T (4 speed automatic) this weekend. Drove the car to the store. Came back out to the car park and turned the key to start the car and just got a lot of clicking from the relays behind the seats. Switched the ignition back to the off position and then tried again and it started normally.

Thought nothing of it until the following day when I got in to start it in the morning and the same issue happened. Dashboard full of lights that you'd expect when switching the ignition on, but just clicking.

I replaced the ignition switch within the past 12 months, the starter solenoid was rebuilt with new contacts within the past year, the battery is less than 12 months old and I remember replacing the main relay 5-6 years ago (due to the won't start in the sunshine/heat symptom).

Here's the odd thing however. If I attach a jump starter to the terminals in the engine bay, it will crank over and start.

So I recharged the battery, removed the negative terminal and cleaned the surface corrosion off it with boiling water and put dielectric grease on the post and terminal before reassembling. I also pulled the main relay and put a soldering iron to each terminal to re-heat and re-set the solder just in case there was a dry joint from the vibration.

Then got back in the car and same thing - dashboard full of lights and then clicking. Put the jump battery on the terminals in the engine bay and it cranks and starts.

Drove it 45 miles on the freeway, battery charging at 14 volts, a/c working, no issues. When I switched the engine off at the end of the trip, switched the ignition back on again and no lights at all in the dashboard. Nothing. Even the doors lock switches were dead and I had to lock the car using the key. Was walking away from the car after emptying stuff out of the trunk and the antenna decided to retract (normally retracts as soon as the ignition is switched off). Even with no lights on the dashboard with the ignition in the 'on' position, if I connect the jump battery to the terminals in the engine bay, the car will crank and start up.

Since the ignition key switch is less than 12 months old and the Bosch battery was showing fully charged, I know the main relay can cause all sorts of unpredictable electrical results. Not sure what the problem might be which allows no lights on the dashboard when the ignition is on, but connecting a booster battery in the engine bay will crank and start the car. I've ordered a new main relay but would be grateful for any other suggestions.
 
Sounds like ignition switch is dirty, or loose connector on the battery. Since you replaced the ignition switch, I would try to rotate each battery terminal, they should not move. Loose terminals are very common due to them stretching over time, and from being over-tightened.
 
Hi Larry. You hit the nail on the head - stretched negative terminal from being over tightened when PEP Boys installed the new battery. To fix it, I picked up a product called Mr. Grip from Home Depot's hardware aisle. It is designed to be used in worn out screw holes to help the screws re-grip. It comes in 1/2" wide strips and has the texture of a fine cheese grater. I just broke one in half, opened up the bolt on the negative terminal loop, put the Mr. Grip like a shim on the terminal post and dropped the negative terminal back on and tightened it back up. The thickness of the piece of Mr. Grip allows the terminal to be tight on the post and the textured "cheese grater" finish digs into the post and terminal to stop the shim coming loose or falling out. Total cost of the fix $1.82 including sales tax!Mr Grip.jpg
 
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Stretching of the Honda battery post cable clamps is as Larry notes a very common problem. Your shim will provide a temporary fix. However, two things conspire against this as a long term fix. The first is that once stretched, the clamps can start to crack which results in further loosening of the clamp which requires more shim material and on and on. The second is that depending on what metal the shim material is made from, you may end up with a corrosion problem leading to failure of the clamps. There are cap type shims that you can buy from battery supply places to address this specific issue. They are made from lead or a lead alloy to eliminate the material compatibility issue. You may still have to deal with the further stretch problem.

You can transplant new clamp ends on to the cables. It is a bit of a hassle to do this (needed some Robax after I redid my terminals) and it may take a bit of a search for the replacement clamps since the NSX uses a very large diameter + cable (I think it might be #1 or 1/0 - can't remember exactly). In the case of a negative battery clamp it might be easier just to replace the whole ground clamp and cable. There is somebody on Prime offering up upgraded negative cables and clamps. Replacing the + cable is a whole lot more money and work - definitely easier to fix the terminal.
 
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