Stock CD Changer Removal

Joined
8 December 2001
Messages
280
Location
Orange, CA USA
My CD Changer won't read CD's any more and I think it's because some moisture go into the trunk. I'm guessi if I pull it out and clean it well enough, it will work again because I can hear it trying to read.

Does anyone have directions on which screws to undo in order to pull it out? It's the stock Alpine unit with the cage that tils up and locks.

Thanks,
Dave

'94 Brooklands Green Pearl
 
Get a flashlight. Flip the lever, and angle the CD player down (like you do to change CD's). Look on the side and find the bolt/screw that is acting as a stop keeping the unit from tipping all the way down to horizontal. Tip the unit back to vertical and remove the screw/bolt. Now flip the lever and the unit will tilt down to horizontal.
Now you will have access to the 4 screws that hold the unit into the tilt bracket (I think it's 4 screws if my memory serves me correctly). Now you can remove the unit far enough to also be able to disconnect the electrical cable. You should now be able to take the unit to a bench, thoroughly disassemble it as you see fit.

Good Luck

BTW, I had to remove mine as a CD got jammed when I went through a jarring experience (backwards over a curb at a guesstimate 40mph). It's been working great ever since.
 
Hey SoCal

My changer too just busted over the weekend. It was playing fine then pressed program to change disks, it blinked the disk# as it was searching/changing disks, but it never found one. It just kept jumping to the next disk#, blink, repeat...argh. Just bought one on e-bay for <$100 (try Alpine CHM S601 or S620) then get a Precison Interactive Electronics DIN adaptor (PIE) #ACUALP.

Good luck
-John
 
I had the same problems with my factory changer. I removed it and sent it out for repair here http://elliottelectronics.com/ $60 bucks and two weeks later was in my car and never sounded better. They also fixed my Lexus 12 CD changer. Pleasant people to talk to and they care about their work. Husband and wife operated company that is service oriented. Elliott will also repair the NSX speakers and amp.
 
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You can try looking for broken wire connections, but without a schematic, I don't have any other suggestions. I think Akudou's $60 repair cost sounds pretty good, of course your problem may be more expensive as I can't predict the labor involved or the components that may need replacing, but If I were in your shoes, I think I would give the repair shop a chance. But if you want to upgrade to an mp3 player, now is your chance. Good luck whatever your choice.
 
You can try spinning the threads of the three (two in back and one in front) brass threaded rods so that the gears bottom out with the chassis, which aligns them all.

AUT_0218.JPG

this image shows the rear two brass rods

AUT_0222.JPG

this is a closeup of the gear at the bottom of the rods that you can spin to "bottom it out"

.02
DanO
 
My problem was both mechanical (brass rods were not aligned) and electrical. The electrical problem (as you can see on the last picture) was that the signal ground wire had broken loose from the connector which I was able to re-secure.

Does your cd player eject the cartridge select and spin the disks? If it does the most likely you can rule out any mechanical problems (if not, try playing around with the height of the three brass rods). You may also try finding the DIN connector at the left (driver’s side) of the trunk and connect the cd player there, this will eliminate the extension cable as a possible culprit.

Other than that limited advice above, I can’t be of much help as my electrical knowledge is sporadic at best <g>.

Good luck,

DanO
 
Just replaced oem changer with Alpine CHM-S620 w/o using the PIE#ACUALP adaptor. So far everything from Dylan to Jurassic 5 sounds as "decent" as before. :D
 
john576 said:
Just replaced oem changer with Alpine CHM-S620 w/o using the PIE#ACUALP adaptor. So far everything from Dylan to Jurassic 5 sounds as "decent" as before. :D

John, are you sure that the music sounds the same. You may not have had to buy the Ai-Net to M-Bus adapter if your S620 unit was already M-Bus configured, but my understanding, based on what is written in the FAQ, is that all non-OEM Alpine players need an ACUALP adapter. This is because the 2- and 4-number pins are changed on the OEM DIN cable, which this adapter remedies. Although the unit will "work" without the adapter, my understanding is that the bass will be off. You might want to check it out.

Regards.
 
Mine is not the cd changer that is causing the problem. It was the connection between the changer and the front console. I don't know the routing of the wire from the back to the front. If anybody had this problem before and was able to solve it please share with us. Thank you.
 
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