Hi guys,
Problem solved 100%.
Two important details and a few contributing details that cant hurt:
1) After exhausting everything related to blown head gaskets, I went back to retrace some of my assumptions. After talking with the ARP Engineers I found that the torque specified by the sellers of the NSX head studs was below the minimum needed to stretch that spec of stud. They added that when ARP actually specifies the torque, they usually give you the minimum torque to get the proper stretch and added that normally the bolt or studs yield is well beyond that number. We assume that the person who originally came up with the NSX torque number didn’t really know much about the engineering of studs, and may have assumed that the torque needed to be similar to the original bolt. I was also told that the turbo diesel HP builders regularly torque higher then the specified number from ARP, and that is the only way they can hold the pressures. I spoke with another builder who was one step ahead of me and was already torquing NSX head studs at a higher number. Armed with this info I tested how much the block would take using a trashed block I still had out back.
Anyway Get ARP Studs, Clean the threads in your block, use Molly lube on the threads and the washer faces, torque your studs in at least three increments before you reach the max, work from inside out with the bolt pattern, and end up with 85 foot pounds of torque. Other details that can help but I credit the torque- If you get the block or heads machined for flatness, get as smooth a surface as your shop can do. Spray your sheet metal gaskets with Hylamar according to the directions. This will coat the surface for better water sealing.
2) Make a clear-ducted path going to the radiator and out the hood. Airflow is key, the biggest, most expensive radiator cant cool your engine if the air flow is limited. Other details that can help but I credit the air flow- Bleed your cooling system properly. Make sure you have no leaks. Raise your coolant tank as high as possible. Fill it and let it overflow to find it’s natural max. Build a secondary overflow tank that will catch and recover the expansion of fluid… like every other car on the market.
Result- I have a car that I have beat the crap out of since the beginning of the year. Depending on the event and pulley I run, it makes between 500 and 600 at the wheels (700 crank). It just came in 2nd place in the Grassroots Ultimate Track Car Challenge with no heating problems with 97-degree air temps. And most impressive- Last weekend I tested with its new owner at Road Atlanta running 1:34 with two people. The ambient paddock temps were 112 degrees and the track temp was a record breaking 146 degrees.
ARP studs torqued to 85.
Venting for more airflow.
