Yes, but no test results yet I pushed my project back for someone elses deadlines.
1) Keep in mind that the higher the performance of the engine the higher rate it will develop heat.
2) When bypassing your heater core by running a hose from the heater line to the bleeder tube, your essentially allowing an estimated 25% of the hot water to bypass the radiator.
3) I added perfect ducting from the nose to the radiator.
4) I opened the area of the nose for greater volume.
5) I also build sealed ducting to vent from the radiator out the hood.
6) And last I added a secondary 37 gpm electric water pump to aid the small OE unit
I may need to play with a lip on the leading edge of the hood if I run into any flow problems exiting the radiator. I will use streamers or a smoke bomb to check for turbulence.
If this works I plan to build my next engine without an OE water pump impeller to save a few HP. Some of you may have noticed a shiny glaze on the outside of your timing belt, this may be an indication of water pump slippage and heat is defiantly not good for belt life.
The only thing left if this doesn’t work is to re-route the water in the heads. This will be the next step for me if what I’ve done hasn’t solved this issue.
