Spun bearing / new engine? /

Joined
13 February 2000
Messages
3,127
Location
Austin, Texas
My NSX is in the shop for some [potentially major] service and I'd appreciate any advice you have.

Here's what happened...

I attended the Driver's Edge event Oct 12-13 at TWS in College Station, TX. The previous week, I spent $2200 the previous week at Gunn Acura in San Antonio, TX. I had them completely inspect the car, perform the full 60K service and fix a defective speed sensor. They also replaced the speed sensor as well as several hoses, boot, oil pan gasket, spool valve gaskets, etc. I did not need timing belt/water pump as it had recently been changed.

When I picked it up, the car would not idle... just died... when it was running I heard a faint tapping sound (propotional to the speed of the engine). It was after service dept hours, so I had to leave the car and pick it up a few days later (after they made some adjustments). There was still a very faint tapping sound, but I figured it was the valvetrain (since it had just been adjusted).

Anyway, after the last session on the frist day of Driver's Edge, I heard a very odd sound from the engine. I can only decribe it as a loud tapping or "clanking". It was definately metal-metal contact and occured pretty much through-out the rpm range, but was more noticable at about 1000 rpm and 2200 rpm.

I did not want to drive the car with that sound, so I left it at TWS overnight. To make a long story short, several nice folks at D.E. looked at my car (much thanks John H., Chris C., Eric R., and JC) but we were not able to really do anything, so I had the car towed back to Gunn Acura. A few weeks ago they called and told me that the engine had spun a rod bearing (ouch!).

I spoke to the tech (Agi) and he tells me 1) The spun bearing damaged the block and I need a new block, I asked what in the world would have cause this since it had been less than 300 miles between leaving the shop and the failure... Of course, he could not say, but did mention there was some odd white/green-ish fluid in the oil. <font color="blue">I have no idea what that could be other than coolant</font>. 2) He mentioned at least one bearing spun, but did not inspect the others. 3) He said the markings on the rods do not look like the markings on a stock rod and that "someone" had been in the engine before <font color="blue">Again, this is odd because I am not aware of any internal engine work on the car</font>.

I'm sure the service rep heard me collapse when he told me the price of a new block. He said they had located some used blocks (engines), but those prices were truely laughable, considering they were USED!

And the sucky part was I was not able to attend NSXPO because of the problems with my car.
mad.gif


Some notes

FYI: I live in Austin, but the reason I took it to Gunn in San Antonio, is because I've heard good things about Agi's knowledge of NSXs and because the local Acura shop (McDavid) "misdiagnosed" several things on my car (including telling me I "definately need a new timing belt and water pump", without bothering to look at the nearly-new belt).

FYI: Although I know my car has high miles, I do not know the actual milage as a previous owner (or dealer) rolled back the background. I knew this when I purchased the car and based on what the previous owner said, the service records I have, and the CarFax reports, the actual miles appears to be 140K-150K.

My questions

I've looked thru some past posts, but still have some questions:

1) What are the chances that the initial work performed by the dealer cause the spun bearing? I've heard several explainations including the long banked turn at TWS, and I also understand that this sort of failure it far from unheard-of. But it's the mysterious fluid in the oil that concerns me. Couldn't the contaiminate cause this sort of failure? It just seems so odd that the failure occured right after the car was serviced and what started as a faint tapping, turned into a loud clanking, and that of coursed, turned out to be a spun bearing.

2) What would be the best way to convince the dealer that they were the ones that screwed-up and they should be the ones that pay for the repairs?

3) At this point I have very little faith in the local Acura dealers. I was given the name of an independant (I think) shop with an NSX tech in San Antonio, but no longer have this information. Anyone know of a good NSX tech in San Antonio that could give me a second opinion?

4) I've looked into several used engines, would need to have it installed. Again, at this point, I would feel uncomfortable trusting either of the two dealers. I've also briefly talked to Mark Basch about shipping the NSX to him for him to diagnosis and repair. Other than having it shipped on a flatbed or pulling it behind a U-Haul, is there another cost-effective way to ship the car ~1000mi?

Sorry of the long post. Thanks all!

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ojaspatel.com/nsx

[This message has been edited by Ojas (edited 19 November 2002).]
 
Ojas,

Sorry to hear the bad news!!!

I assume that the dealer did a "teardown" of the motor to see the damage?... Did they only take the oil pan out to see or did they separate the heads from the top too?

I have seen 3 NSX's with spun rods and have never seen damage so extreme as to ruin the block. The spun rods I have seen have been due to aftermarket rods, or, repressed factory rods in NSX's that have been turbo'd or supercharged... do you have either?

Your tech should have been able to tell you right away if the rods in your motor were factory or not. Honda engraves each rod with a part number.

At the moment I cant really think of the prior service you just had done being related to your problem. If there was coolant in the oil it would definately cause a lack of lubrication but the question is... what caused the coolant to be there? Did you ever experience any form of overheating before or after?

As for the used block, I dont know what they quoted you but I have seen used shotblocks sell for anywhere between $3-5,000.00

I hope you can find someone able to diagnose this with some better answers then you have gotten so far!

Regards,

-Brad
 
Ojas,

Sorry to hear that the problem you had at TWS turned out to be so serious.

ERZ Auto in NY is a good source for used NSX parts.

If you're looking for a shorter distance to ship your car for service, consider Goodson Acura here in Dallas. Curtis (who did a timing belt replacement tech session at NSXpo) is sharp and would be a good "local" choice to avoid sending your car all the way to AZ. Susan has a good relationship with ERZ and can probably find you a good deal on a used engine.

ERZ is mentioned in the FAQ here: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/ownership/discountparts.htm

Good luck -- I hope everything turns out OK for you.

Aaron
 
Wow. Let's go back to the basics and take this one step at a time.

First, how long have you had the car, how many miles did it have when you bought it, how many miles does it have now, and has it ever overheated since you had it?

A spun bearing on a car with lower mileage usually means a lubrication problem. Yes, it is indeed possible to have oil starvation on a high-speed banked oval. It is also possible if your oil was contaminated with something (such as coolant). And the combination of the two would spell almost certain disaster!

Were you running slicks at TWS? The only people I know who suffered oil starvation on a banked oval were running slicks.

Where is the car now? If it's still at the dealer, go inspect it. Bring a camera. Take pictures of the rods and post them. We can certainly tell you if they are OEM or not. If they are not OEM, the car certainly has more history than you thought and that is most likely a bad sign.

Find out what the contaminent in the oil is. If there was a lot of coolant in the oil, it will be obvious. Has your coolant level changed? Is there gunk on the bottom side of the oil cap or dip stick? Do you see contamination of the coolant? You can also test the coolant for C02.

Find out exactly how the block is damaged, and how the technician determined the damage. I am not accusing them of anything, but the fact is that some shops just don't want to get into an engine and will tell you it needs to be replaced if you have a spun bearing or something similar.

If we assume the block really is damaged, that could actually have been the cause and not the symptom of your spun bearing. If for example the block is cracked, then that could have contaminated the oil with coolant which then led to the spun bearing. Then of course you need to figure out why the block was cracked to begin with...

To answer your specific questions...

1. It is unlikely that the maintenance work you described led to a spun bearing, but I would certainly want to know what the problem was when you first went to pick up the car, and what they did to fix it. Get very specific answers because they will be in full "cover our ass" mode and will try to be as vague as possible.

2. I think it's premature to say the dealer is responsible for the problem. If they are somehow responsible, fully documenting everything (the full sequence of events, who you talked to, when, exactly what they said (not what you interpreted it to mean), etc. is probably the only way you are going to get anything out of them either voluntarily or through legal action.

3. I'm not from your area so I don't know who is good in the San Antonio area.

4. Your only real option to ship it somewhere else for service is a flatbed or trailer. Regular car transport companies will only move working cars.

[This message has been edited by Lud (edited 19 November 2002).]
 
i spun a bearing on my first nsx which messed up the block (scrathed and scuffed the inner cylinder wall) because the lack of oil everytime i started the car i would smoke alittle bitand go away a didn't think much off it until the engine made a herrific noise (sounded like i was draging trash cans) anyway i needed a motor and i got one from joe at ERZ in NY who is a good friend of mine and with you having that many miles on the nsx maybe its not a bad thing to get a fresh motor other than the price tag. i paid $4000- for the complete motor out of a 96' nsx and it had 17k documented miles on it
and the dealer worked with me on the price and charge me around $750 to put the motor in out the door and then i later sold the old engine to somebody who wanted to bore it out so i got $1000- back
just saying this to let you know youre not alone even though this happeden to me 3-4 years ago.
 
Originally posted by Lud:
Has your coolant level changed? Is there gunk on the bottom side of the oil cap or dip stick? B]



My car recently overheated due to a leak in the tank. It overheated BAD way past red. I had it towed into the dealership. I noticed a milky/muddy residue under the cap, dealership says that's normal?
 
Originally posted by smoore:
just saying this to let you know youre not alone

I'll add my story to the list... I spun a rod bearing, due to low oil, over two years ago after about 600 miles of driving my newly acquired 98 with 24K miles. I got the car with a record that it had been serviced recently...I wish I hadn't believed it and just changed the oil immediately (despite seeing a decent level of oil on the dipstick). I went to a popular shop for a rebuild...this apparently was a mistake, as about three months ago a couple head screws backed out (they appeared to have been over-torqued, in the opinion of my Acura tech), causing a head to loosen and the blowing of a couple of head gaskets. A couple of the block bolt holes were stripped, leaving the block practically unusable. I still need to talk with the shop that did the rebuild about their thoughts on my incident...I'm gathering my old parts and taking photos now.

ERZ sold me a long-block for $8K from a 98 with 5K miles (which suffered a moderate front-end collision). The engine was determined excellent by my Acura tech (visible signs of good break-in, excellent compression, no over-rev valve/cam damage). Its been running flawlessly for the last month. Man is it good to have my car back.

Ojas, I hope your situation is resolved righteously and with minimal hassle.

Jeff

p.s. In case anyone is interested in beautiful nsx artifacts, I'll soon have some of my old titanium rods for sale. Sold/traded two already, and one of them will be staying on my desk.
smile.gif
 
Originally posted by SolidCitizen:
...In case anyone is interested in beautiful nsx artifacts, I'll soon have some of my old titanium rods for sale. Sold/traded two already, and one of them will be staying on my desk.
smile.gif



Jeff

I sent you email. Thanks

Rick

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Originally posted by Runutzzzzz:

My car recently overheated due to a leak in the tank. It overheated BAD way past red. I had it towed into the dealership. I noticed a milky/muddy residue under the cap, dealership says that's normal?

No no no that is a classic red flag that you likely have coolant in your oil, particulary since you said it is "milky". I would certainly check into it further ASAP.
 
Ojas, you need to get some photos of your rods. I was asked to contact Gunn Acura by another NSX'R in your behalf because Gunn had no experience in NSX engine replacement. I gave Agi several contacts for used engines, the first being ERZ. In the course of our conversation he admitted that the rods didn't appear to be OEM. Lud's correct this is a huge red flag. It indicates the engine has been open previously, a fact that neither you nor Gunn were aware of.
How long ago did you purchase this car and do you have any recourse there?
 
I'd like to thank everyone that posted here and sent me emails. I really appreciate all the advice.

Originally posted by TheSwishh:
I assume that the dealer did a "teardown" of the motor to see the damage?... Did they only take the oil pan out to see or did they separate the heads from the top too?

Agi only removed the oil pan to perform inspection.

Originally posted by TheSwishh:
I have seen 3 NSX's with spun rods and have never seen damage so extreme as to ruin the block. The spun rods I have seen have been due to aftermarket rods, or, repressed factory rods in NSX's that have been turbo'd or supercharged... do you have either?/
Nope. No forced induction or NOS.

Originally posted by TheSwishh:
Your tech should have been able to tell you right away if the rods in your motor were factory or not. Honda engraves each rod with a part number.

I probably wasn't as clear as I could have been in my first post. Because the Honda part number was not there, he does not know what kind of rods are there, although, it's probably safe to assume that according to the tech, they are not stock rods. Very odd.

Originally posted by TheSwishh:
...If there was coolant in the oil it would definately cause a lack of lubrication but the question is... what caused the coolant to be there? Did you ever experience any form of overheating before or after?

Not sure how the coolant (or whatever liquid it is) got in there. I never had any overheating problems before. Even while at the event, I kept a very close eye on all the gauges... Everything was perfectly normal.

Thanks Brad.

Originally posted by Lud:
First, how long have you had the car, how many miles did it have when you bought it, how many miles does it have now, and has it ever overheated since you had it?

Car had ~120K miles when I bought it in Dec 2001 and ~135K miles now. I say approximately, because of the odometer rollback. Actual miles are unknown. These estimates are based on CarFax reports and records from the previous owner(s).

Originally posted by Lud:
Were you running slicks at TWS? The only people I know who suffered oil starvation on a banked oval were running slicks.

No slicks, just street tires. I did not feel I was even driving the car hard.

Originally posted by Lud:
Where is the car now? If it's still at the dealer, go inspect it. Bring a camera. Take pictures of the rods and post them. We can certainly tell you if they are OEM or not. If they are not OEM, the car certainly has more history than you thought and that is most likely a bad sign.

Car is still at Gunn in SA. I'm sure the put the cover back on, so I won't be able to take a picture without talking to them and having them pull it back in the shop. I'll see what I can do.

Originally posted by Lud:
Find out what the contaminent in the oil is. If there was a lot of coolant in the oil, it will be obvious. Has your coolant level changed? Is there gunk on the bottom side of the oil cap or dip stick? Do you see contamination of the coolant? You can also test the coolant for C02.

Coolant WAS changed when I brought it in for service immediately before the failure. I'll have to check for the gunk and see what I can do for testing coolant for CO2.

Thanks Lud.

Originally posted by Nsx Service Girl:
Ojas, you need to get some photos of your rods....How long ago did you purchase this car and do you have any recourse there?

I purchased the car in Dec 2001 from an individual who posted the car for sale on this site. I doubt I have any recourse with him.

As I mentioned previously, I bought it knowing that the miles were not actual. Looking back, perhaps this should have outweighed the discounted price. Of course, there's no point in worrying about that now.

It looks like the best thing for me to do is:
1) Clear up the rod issue... verify it's not-OEM... I'll try to get a picture, but it's not easy for me to do as the car is an hour away and not in the service bay... But you're right... a picture would clear up a lot.
2) Try to determine what the fluid in the oil is and how it got there.
3) Determine if it's worth trying to get Gunn to cover any of the work... if there is any chance the failure could have been cause by the work Gunn did. (it does not look like it based on what's been said so far)
4) Still try to decide to have Gunn replace the engine or ship it to Mark.

Thanks again to all.

------------------
ojaspatel.com/nsx
 
Ojas,

Sorry to hear about your car...that sucks man. Hopefully it will all get worked out soon and won't cost the bank.

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92 Red/Blk
 
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