Spark Plug Change - Lessons Learned

Joined
21 May 2006
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1,226
Location
Basking Ridge, NJ
My NSX just hit 60,000 miles, so it was time for a spark plug change. I went with the Densos recommended in the shop manual. This should have been easy compared to changing the timing belt two years ago, but for Lesson 1.

Lesson 1: Stuff some shop towels all around the rear of the alternator before you begin. Why? Well, I set my ratchet wrench down on the top of the engine, and I heard a clunk. It seems the socket was not snapped on all the way, fell off and went into some deep small cavity behind and below the alternator. First it took forever to figure out where the socket went. Then, my magnetic pick-up tool wouldn't fit in there. Finally, taping a magnet the size of a pencil to a long thin stick, and I got the bugger out. An hour was lost on that exercise. :redface:

Lesson 2: I found the cause of my recent "ticking" radio noise! There was corrosion on the top of plug #5. I changed that out and no more radio noise. Note that the steel body of the plug is bright and shiny. There was also some deposits on the contact in the coil pack. I used a long thin screwdriver to carefully scrape out the deposit and then cleaned it out with compressed air. All other plugs and coil packs showed no signs of corrosion.
<img src="http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_2071.JPG" />
<img src="http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_2066.JPG" />

Lesson 3: When I did the timing belt, I put a very thin film of Dow Corning Compound #4 (silicon grease) inside the lower end each coil boot and on the circular seal at the base of the coil. Every plug well was totally dry; no signs of moisture and no signs of any rust on each plug body. I also put a generous coat of the compound on the seal of the cover for each bank, making sure the seal is up. That area was also dry as a bone, despite the fact that I have driven the car in heavy rain and take no special precautions when washing the car. So, I of course once again applied the compound to each coil boot & seal, as well as to the cover seal. The "slipperiness" of the compound also makes installing the coil pack easier - it slips easily over the plug and bottoms out even before tightening the bolts on the coil pack.

So, most of the time was spent retrieving the dropped socket.:mad: But, no more radio noise, the engine runs smoothly up to the red line, and I'll check to see if there is an increase in gas mileage over the next few tanks of gas.:biggrin:
 
anytime you work on a deep well plug (socket + extension ) i back tape the socket to the ext , this way when you pull the ext. + socket off the plug after installion the socket does not stay on the plug also it wont fall off and get lost behind the alt. Ialso have snap-on industrial ext. +sockets that are pin locked instead of typical automotive detent ball locked sockets:wink:
been there done that!!!
 
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Nice, I just did mine and noticed that the dealership that did it previously reinstalled both the ignition coils and the covers in the wrong banks (i.e. the coils/covers labeled "FF" were closer to the trunk and the coils/covers labelled "RR" were closer to the cabin). The ignition coils probably didn't matter too much, but the covers did. That's because the covers actually have a seal on them only on 1 side (the top side). When installed incorrectly, water can get under the cover (because theres no seal at the top) and has no were to escape (because the seal holds the water in at the bottom). This cause some of my spark plugs to corrode too.

So my lesson learned is double check the covers!
 
Just did my plugs last weekend...didn't find it any worse than doing my MDX the weekend prior. I only had about 36,000 miles, 10 yrs, so
I thought for the $40 in plugs, y not. I also changed the coil packs as well while they were off. To be honest, I was trying to see if I could eliminate the rough idle between 1K and 2K RPM....the coils were bone dry, and the plugs were almost as clean at both ends as new...so probably a bit of a waste of money in doing this, since the idle is exactly the same as previous, which many have suggested is normal. Anyway, it was a good learning experience in getting a bit deeper within the workings of my NSX...."starting to get a bit more intimate with it"...the other day I removed the door panels, seats and some dash components...in preparation to remove the window regulators to be repaired with the Hugo fix, and then the stereo upgrade....patience is needed, but enjoyable none the less. I just hope I can remember how to put everything back together...I have posted a question in the Electronics section regarding door speakers if anyone cares to reply. See "Speaker Mounts"
 
Just did my plugs last weekend...didn't find it any worse than doing my MDX the weekend prior. I only had about 36,000 miles, 10 yrs, so
I thought for the $40 in plugs, y not. I also changed the coil packs as well while they were off. To be honest, I was trying to see if I could eliminate the rough idle between 1K and 2K RPM....the coils were bone dry, and the plugs were almost as clean at both ends as new...so probably a bit of a waste of money in doing this, since the idle is exactly the same as previous, which many have suggested is normal. Anyway, it was a good learning experience in getting a bit deeper within the workings of my NSX...."starting to get a bit more intimate with it"...the other day I removed the door panels, seats and some dash components...in preparation to remove the window regulators to be repaired with the Hugo fix, and then the stereo upgrade....patience is needed, but enjoyable none the less. I just hope I can remember how to put everything back together...I have posted a question in the Electronics section regarding door speakers if anyone cares to reply. See "Speaker Mounts"

On a lot of my previous cars, the rough idle was attributed to a dirty intake manifold. Once I had them cleaned, the idle was smooth. That could be the cause of it.
 
I use (quite expensive) Hazet wrenches an sockets, nothing gets ever losts. :) Before...I know what you mean.
 
I pulled my plugs for a compression test a couple of weeks ago and have a tool recomendation.

Forceps. They're long and thin enough to get most places in the engine bay to fish out errant sockets in the absence of a strong-enough magnet. They can also be used to fish stuff out of the plug wells. Ring forceps can grip the plugs themselves and normal forceps can usually pluck a cantankerous socket out.
 
Hi Frank,

Take a good look at the #5 coil. Corrosion comes in pairs;).

Regards,
LarryB

Larry,

I definitely noticed that, and cleaned the contact in the #5 coil pack. In addition, there was a tiny "discoloration" spot in the contact in the #1 pack and I cleaned that out too.

Frank
 
I use (quite expensive) Hazet wrenches an sockets, nothing gets ever losts. :) Before...I know what you mean.

i have a pair of Hazet hose clamp pliars given to me by a fellow employee at GM , we used them in production use , this fellow was German toolmaker I asked him if they were as good as Snap-on ,he said Snap -on is goood!!!-these are perfect yaa !!--- he wasnt kidding ,on line they sell for $150- 250,the craftsmanship is incredible , when i change my coolant hoses they will come in handy
 
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Back from the dead. About to change mine any other tips I should know? The part that scares me is the socket getting stuck onto the plug after its installed. Given its such an awkward location and you won't be able to see down the holes. I guess I should be using a smaller ratchet head for this job?
 
I'm tellin ya: Forceps. Never fret about getting the socket stuck again. I actually noticed that they carry the long ones at Harbor Freight these days.

m25-800.jpg
 
Back from the dead. About to change mine any other tips I should know? The part that scares me is the socket getting stuck onto the plug after its installed. Given its such an awkward location and you won't be able to see down the holes. I guess I should be using a smaller ratchet head for this job?

Did you read post #2 above?;)
 
hmmmm RSO 34 is possesed by Larry B...:eek: ie post #7
 
.what happens in kyoto.......:eek:
 
I'm tellin ya: Forceps. Never fret about getting the socket stuck again. I actually noticed that they carry the long ones at Harbor Freight these days.

m25-800.jpg

That's actually a curved hemostat. I have forceps that would scare the cr@p out of you.
 
That's actually a curved hemostat. I have forceps that would scare the cr@p out of you.

what the hell dentist needs those......o barber of york.....
 
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