spacer question

[TURBO2GO]

I did a search on spacers but nothing came up for an answer to my question. I bought some spacers from STMPO and 20 ARP bolts to go in them. How do you get these bolts in? Does it need a special tool? What kind of shop should I take it to? just a general mechanic? My NSX mechanic is kind of far away, I was hoping if this is basic a local place could do it?

 

[pgilliam1]

Looks to me like a hammer and a flat surface (open vise) would suffice . If not, then maybe a clamp and deep socket would work.

 

[TURBO2GO]

That's it, huh? LOL... OK thanks.

 

[CL65 Captain]

Fronts are relatively easy, rears you have to pull the axle nut off.

It's been covered many times over in other posts.

DIY for the fronts:
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/front_hub.htm
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

 

[RYU]

Did the fronts on a friends car recently.

1. Remove front hubs (4 bolts)
2. Secure hub face on vise with stud closest to vise clamps
3. Take a BFH (big f*cking hammer) and POW on the stud a couple of times
4. Buy a couple of washers
5. Buy a couple of lug nuts you plan to discard
6. Place studs with groves lined up to existing grooves in the hub as best as possible.
7. Place the washer (or two) and thread in a lug nut via the stud so the stud is held in place to the hub finger tight. Make sure you use the flat side of the lug nut not the conical or round side.
8. Grab an impact gun and screw it in about ~100lbs/ft or until it's all in. Hope you have an impact gun.

I used the same method I did for my Corvette Z06 hubs. Easy peasy.

 

[Hrant]

Regarding the rear, you can still do it "technically" if you just make a notch on the hub corner where the head of the bolt will not clear. You need only one as you can rotate to that position for all the head bolts to clear ..... then you a hammer to push the bolt out.

 

[CL65 Captain]

Regarding the rear, you can still do it "technically" if you just make a notch on the hub corner where the head of the bolt will not clear. You need only one as you can rotate to that position for all the head bolts to clear ..... then you a hammer to push the bolt out.

With regular length studs, yes. ARP studs are too long to do it this way you have to take the hub off. :wink:

 

[oscar_driver]

I wish you got H&R, they are made for Porsches and sold by Porsche dealers .. they are hubcentric and strong ONE PIECE, with bolts built in, no need to do nothing but tighten them up with proper tq ..

Oscar

 

[docjohn]

If you do install this (which I doubt you ever will) and the studs are longer,make sure your lug nuts don't run out of depth and stop short of the wheel surface.If so you will need open ended or extended tuner type lug nuts.

 

[Hrant]

With regular length studs, yes. ARP studs are too long to do it this way you have to take the hub off. :wink:

Hmmm .... how wide are the spacers and how long is the ARP bolts supplied? If they are 20mm spacers then having the bolts in the hub centric spacers would have been a better option.

 

[angus]

I wish you got H&R, they are made for Porsches and sold by Porsche dealers .. they are hubcentric and strong ONE PIECE, with bolts built in, no need to do nothing but tighten them up with proper tq ..

Oscar

I'm going to say +1 on this, it always puzzles me as to why people get these...

 

[stuntman]

I wish you got H&R, they are made for Porsches and sold by Porsche dealers .. they are hubcentric and strong ONE PIECE, with bolts built in, no need to do nothing but tighten them up with proper tq ..

Oscar

ARP is an industry leader for a reason. I would guess they are stronger than the H&R studs that rely on the strength of the OEM stud AND the H&R. I'll be going with ARPs on my car like the FXMD NSX which ran 25mm spacers and 335 width slicks for a really long time.


0.02

 

[TURBO2GO]

I wish you got H&R, they are made for Porsches and sold by Porsche dealers .. they are hubcentric and strong ONE PIECE, with bolts built in, no need to do nothing but tighten them up with proper tq ..

Oscar

The fronts ARE H&R. The rears are STMPO billets. The studs are ARP. I didn't want spacers that are excessively large. I didn't do this for bling, I got them to clear my stoptechs. In a 15mm, studs are not built-in.

The rears are 25mm, billet, very light, hubcentric, and don't have excessive unused holes in them like the H&R. I've never had anything that wasn't great quality from STMPO, unfortunately he didn't make 15's so I decided to get the H&R and toss the studs that came with them in favor of the stronger ARP's.

If you do install this (which I doubt you ever will) and the studs are longer,make sure your lug nuts don't run out of depth and stop short of the wheel surface.If so you will need open ended or extended tuner type lug nuts.

Thanks, I will double check. This stuff will all go in at once. I don't want to do things innefficiently. Once I get my dampers back from Ravi, those, the BBK, the spacers all go in at once. These are all related parts, I don't want to pull off a rotor for a hub and a hub for a damper and a damper for a lift system, etc.

ARP is an industry leader for a reason. I would guess they are stronger than the H&R studs that rely on the strength of the OEM stud AND the H&R. I'll be going with ARPs on my car like the FXMD NSX which ran 25mm spacers and 335 width slicks for a really long time.0.02

Thats what Ross said and so he sent me 20 ARP studs so I am not relying on 2 sets of studs on one wheel like you smartly mentioned.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Fronts are relatively easy, rears you have to pull the axle nut off.

It's been covered many times over in other posts.

DIY for the fronts:
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/front_hub.htm
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

Awesome links Jim, thanks. Did you use stock lugnuts with no issue? My ARP's are longer than the H&R studs.

 

[Bright Light Tech]

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150529

Here's my DIY. I did it myself. With a hammer and some patience, you can get them in yourself in your own garage. :biggrin: