SOS NSX-R Chassis bars on 03

Joined
19 February 2007
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245
Location
Phoenix AZ
Just finished installing these on my '03 and I have to say that it was super easy. Did not remove the front end or lay the radiator back. Just removed all the clips that hold the air flow insert in place and worked mostly through the front end and a little from underneath. The piece is very flexable and made it easy to work around. Entire job took 2 hours. I really did not take any pictures that would add to the ones that already on the forum. Did this job at Roush racing in Livonia MI as my cousin works there....ALSO got to sit in and take some cool pictures of a Konnigsegg!!! Fun Morning indeed!!:cool:
 

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MJK did a diy write up with photos awhile ago and made it a breeze. As I said before, this ones a music, two beer, relax job.
What a difference it makes, the steering really sharpens up.

Cheers
nigel
 
I have been thinking about this upgrade as well. Glad to hear it's easy. Which Koenigsegg was that? The fast one or the stupid fast one?
 
MJK did a diy write up with photos awhile ago and made it a breeze. As I said before, this ones a music, two beer, relax job.
What a difference it makes, the steering really sharpens up.Cheers
nigel


I agree...I was wondering if there would be a noticeable difference and immediately I felt as if it was a more solid structure and the steering seems more precise.
 
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I can't find the MJK post? Can someone direct me? I just got the chasis bars and would like to see the 2 hr installation option.

Thanks in advance,

Tytus
 
Sott or Nigel,

Elaboration on this subject would greatly be appreciated due to the fact that SOS Chris said you must remove bumper. I'm positive this will be a ever increasing popular mod; so it will be helpful to many. Thanx much :smile:
 
You were right down the street from me...that means a Konnigsegg is only a few blocks away from my house:eek:
I am planning on doing these too in a month or two...good to know its fairly simple!
 
Differences I note in MJK's write up are that I did not mount either side flanged bracket "under" or behind the tow hook brackets. The space that is caused by the fact that the tow hook bracket is actually 2 plates welded together is made up with the supplied (by SOS) 10mm washers to place behind the SOS flanged bracket against the tow hook plate only on the upper bolt. I also did not pull my radiator duct out at all but used a paint marker to outline the "witness lines" on the radiator shroud and reached through the front of the car with one hand and a box cutter and from below grabbed and positioned the shroud for cutting. This only took like 5 minutes per side as the shroud is a soft flexable material. I guess though if you are any kind of body builder or have some Popeye forearms you would not be able to do it this way. Also I am not sure that doing it the way I did would be possible on an NA1 car due to the difference in the front openings on the car and then removing the shroud all together would probably be needed. MJK's write up is accurate and I am sure the pics will help folks doing this DIY project.
 
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I just got finished installing the lower NSX-R bar on my 2004. It took no time at all, fit perfectly and I didn't need the spacer kit that I read about in other treads. The only adjustment was rotating the cooling system hose clamp about 1/4" to clear the lower bar. No need to unbolt the batery tray either. Keep in mind that my car is completely stock and was not lowered either, I understand you need the spacer kit if you lower the car or use a diferent sway bar. It took longer to get the car on the jack stands than to do the work.

Only question I have is what is the correct torque setting for the bolts where the lower brace attaches? I can't find a spec.

This weekend the upper bar is to be tackled, doesn't sound as easy as the lower bar. We'll see.

Tytus
 
That is too funny as the cooling hose clamp is the only adjustment I had to make as well! We torqued the bolts in question to 60lbft. We checked the others on the same mounts and they were below 65lbft so we just went with 60 and called it good. You are right about the lower bar being easier...there are a few more steps involved in the front/upper bar. Good Luck.
 
I'd like to know how this can be installed without taking the front bumper off because it is a fricken BITCH to take the front bumper off.
 
I'd like to know how this can be installed without taking the front bumper off because it is a fricken BITCH to take the front bumper off.

yes it can be... mine were installed without removing the bumper. hope this helps! Rob should be able to give you more info on this as he did my install for me :)
 

I think you got this, but just to note - the difference between MJK's install and yours is that you have the new brackets from SOS that doesn't require you to take off or cut/modify the factory brackets.

That's the only step I'd tell people to not follow on MJK's post if you get the kit from SOS.

BTW, the bumper's actually very easy to take off, but it's nice to see that it can be done a different way.

I thought the picts were going to be of your NSX, but needless to say I wasn't disappointed!
 
I'm going to R&I the bumper assembly. For me it's faster and there's no damage to me!

FYI the clips in MJK's write up are very easy to remove. You use a small Phillips to push the center of the pin on the clip IN. The pin "pops" in and then using a flat blade screwdriver the whole clip lifts out. No reason to break even one.
To re-install, remove the center pin from the clip. Insert the clip base in the hole and push the center pin back in the clip, pushing it flush to lock. It will snap in place.
 
SWIFTVISION, first, don't remove the front bumper! Look at MJKs pics and get a beer or 3 and open the doors with your favorite music on.
This job easier if you raise the front of the car up but not necessary.
Remove the clips like he says up top and the bolts from under and PULL the shroud out. You'll have to mark it for the cut so the bar will fit so measure it before you take it out. Measure twice, cut once! If you cut the shroud after you remove it you can do a factory job and it's really no big deal getting the shroud out and back in. No s*#t. If I can, anyone can.
By the way, i'm told my hood finally showed up in Indy!! I'm in West Palm Beach/Lauderdale fixing planes. I wish they would have contacted me first so I could have had it shiped where I am but finally getting it is blessing enough. There were no P/Ms from anyone concerning it except what you told me and a post another friend saw and alerted me to.
THANKS for your help whatever it was. It seemed to do the job and i'm very grateful. The rum is on me!!

Cheers
nigel
 
Well I finally completed the NSX-R chassis bar install this weekend. The upper bar was definitely more difficult and time consuming than the lower bar. First, to remove the fasteners that hold the duct in place you do not want to lever them off as MJK’s write up instructed. I tried that and three broken fasteners later I figured out that, this is not the method, this is why he broke all his fasteners. The center pin needs to be pushed in until it clicks and then it just pops off. Push in 2 to 3 clips at a time for a given section of the duct and just tug lightly on the plastic duct and they just release. No more wasted fasteners.

I tried to see if it is possible to do the job without removing the duct and concluded that the drivers side is too difficult unless you are a contortionist or have spindly arms. I am not implying ExCfive has spindly arms since he successfully performed this mod without removing the duct. Perhaps it was the position of me laying on the garage floor that made it appear impossible but even trying to cut neatly the duct just looked like a potential blood bath with a box cutter. I decided to remove the duct. You have to detach the front hood release cable that is clipped to the duct at about three points and a wiring harness that is clipped to the duct at 2 points; which you can reach in from the nose duct and the top to get at them, before you can lower the duct, it’s not too hard. To remove the duct you have to fold in the sides of the duct to be able to pull it out from the bottom; you also have to push down from the top to clear the horns, hood cable, and various electrical connections. This plastic is so flexible that you can just about roll the thing into a ball; it will deform easily and return to shape, don’t worry about it, and just make sure nothing gets hung up as you pull it out.

Once the duct is out you have soooo much room to work, you can now easily attach the brackets and the bar, I did it all from the bottom. You may notice that you cannot get the driver’s side bar attached to the bracket as the holes don’t line up by a bit. The bar interfered with one of the washers of the lower bracket bolt. The washer is too close to the bottom of the bar and needed a little grinding to allow the bar to sit properly against the bracket face. I took off about 1/8” off of one side of the washer and everything fit perfectly. I torqued the bracket bolts to 20 ftlbs and the bar bolts to 16 ftlbs as per the instructions.

Having the duct removed allowed me to make very clean cuts in the duct along the markings for the bar cut out. The markings have rounded corners for the cutouts which were real easy to make with tin snips. I couldn’t imagine doing this inside the nose of the car. Kudos to ExCfive for performing all these tasks with the duct in place!

Now the fun part, putting back the duct…Actually it was just like taking it out but backwards. Fold the sides and work the duct up slowly from the bottom at first, then pull from the top and guide through the nose making sure you clear all the previously identified obstructions. Snap on all the fasteners by pulling the little pin out about 1/8” and then inserting the fastener into the hole and once seated just push the pin in until flush. Don’t push it in too deep or the fastener will release, just like when you took it off. Screw in the bolt in the middle of the front of the duct and go for a test drive.

Regards,

Tytus

PS: I did the job and wrote this before I saw Joe's post about the clips, timing is everything, if I waited I would have saved 3-4 fasteners and some headscratching time. Oh well...
 
If you need clips the best place to replace them is from, autobodyclips.com They have a real easy to match picture section and they cost .11 ea. instead of 2.30 ea from Acura. Their clips come from the exact same place that manufactures them for Honda.

Cheers
nigel
 
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Nigel,

Thanks for the tip on the clips. BTW the cost is $14.35 for a box of 15 now, still better than Acura. Great source for all kinds of fasteners though.

Thanks again,

Tytus
 
Easy job.
Kuva_1382.jpg
 
Well, I finally got the clips, but they are not the same as the OEM:frown: . They have a smaller disc and are not the same sheen. They fit in the hole but you have to replace all of them so they match. That doesn't bother me, replacing them all, but the size and sheen diference does. The new ones are shinny and the originals are more matte. To be original the parts should be identicle. There are no other options for that clip on the web site.

Does anyone know if the exact OEM clips are no longer available for a 2004 from Acura before I bother ordering them from them?

Regards,

Tytus

PS: I realize that I should just get over it and use what I got, but others, as anal can relate, right? :rolleyes:
 
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