Seems like clutch replacement time

[ftuhy]

This weekend, on my first long drive after the nasty winter, my clutch pedal seems to grab very high and it often makes a metallic sound as it engages. Clutch hydraulics are about a year old, fluid is very clear. Clutch pedal pressure is very smooth and linear all the way to the top. The engagement point has been slowly creeping up over the years, but now its just about at the top.

There's about 50kmi on this OEM clutch (replaced by a dealer in 2000 as part of the purchase agreement). It always chattered, making it difficult to engage at very low RPMs, so I'm sure using higher RPMs (1500 - 2000) contributed to a somewhat low clutch life.

Anyone think its not time for a new clutch? (If not, what action is suggested to fix the clutch pedal travel?)

I used search, and found only one good article on removing the tranny: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/112861-DIY-Clutch-repeated-with-pictures
Are there any other helpful threads or DIYs on/off Prime?
Is the Harbor Freight tranny jack suggested by Larry B in 2008 still the way to go to get the trans out?

How much does the tranny weigh? I have to admit I'm getting a bit older & need to use more finesse and less brute force than in the past, so any additional hints are welcome.

For a totally stock normally-aspirated '96 that I intend to keep that way, what's the latest feeling on using an OEM dual-disk replacement vs an aftermarket single disk arrangement? I'm only interested in something with a similar clutch pedal effort.

Finally, am I crazy doing this myself? I did the timing belt a few years back with no problem, and have changed clutches in numerous Corvettes, etc. I have the factory manual, and am meticulous in following it.


Oops - left off a relevant fact: I have a drive-on 4-post lift.

 

[Honcho]

Frank you should take a hard look at the OS Giken Grand Touring single-plate. Equal if not softer pedal than OEM and it is 11 lbs lighter.

 

[davidf]

Run it up in 2nd a bit and double clutch it. Under that load my clutch would slip and the tach would rise. That's when I knew. I had 83,000 miles.

 

[Kitaka]

With a 4 post lift...Go For it! I did mine on the garage floor and had a bit of hassle because I did not figure the Harbor Freight tool wheel height into the equation. I had to remove it from the tranny tool and then slide it out. I have about 30k miles on the replaced stock clutch with no problems so far.

 

[ftuhy]

Thanks for the input.

11 pounds lighter should give a quicker throttle response. The flywheel (and crank pulley at the other end) help smooth out engine vibrations. Did you notice any difference in engine idle smoothness?

Frank you should take a hard look at the OS Giken Grand Touring single-plate. Equal if not softer pedal than OEM and it is 11 lbs lighter.

 

[docjohn]

I have sos sport 275 and the clutch feels like oem.

 

[ftuhy]

Doc,

Thanks for the input. I like the simplicity of the single plate clutch and will go that way.

I was hoping someone would tell me the problem was not the clutch, but was really due to a blown tail light bulb.:biggrin:
Looks like its time to order parts and start wrenching.

As I looked under the car to scope this out, I noticed the right inner half- shaft boot is showing the classic failure of starting to ooze grease. So, doing the clutch is not that many more steps anyway.

 

[pjr300]

I just replaced the original clutch at 44k miles... when it was pulled out, we found it ground down to the rivits.

we installed the sos 350 clutch... I've only driven it a few miles but it is MUCH stiffer than stock. it is also over 10 pounds lighter than stock.

 

[davidf]

Right inner boot is always the 1st to let go since it sets under header/exhaust manifold. It is not expensive to buy though.

Doc,

Thanks for the input. I like the simplicity of the single plate clutch and will go that way.

I was hoping someone would tell me the problem was not the clutch, but was really due to a blown tail light bulb.:biggrin:
Looks like its time to order parts and start wrenching.

As I looked under the car to scope this out, I noticed the right inner half- shaft boot is showing the classic failure of starting to ooze grease. So, doing the clutch is not that many more steps anyway.

 

[pjr300]

yeah, I just had to do both; one was oozing more than the other, but both were bad.

 

[Honcho]

Frank I would contact Ryu or Billy Johnson. Both have OS Giken clutches and can tell you about the feel. Both are running the STR version, which is a sportier twin-plate. I referenced the Grand Touring (aka Street Master in Japan), which is a single plate type. However, I believe both the STR and GT use the same flywheel. IIRC, the weight savings is in the clutch components, not the flywheel, so you retain the factory-level driving feel.

 

[ftuhy]

OK, I've started this clutch/CV refurbish project. Today I borrowed a 5' pipe that fit over my 3/4" drive breaker bar (a pitiful 19" long), and removed the axle nuts. Loosening bolts tightened to 240 ft-lb was definitely a concern. I'm now at about step 8 in the manual, trying to figure out where all the electrical connectors are that have to be disconnected.

I'm taking my time, so its off to another glass of wine after dinner while I contemplate how much of this I'll do tomorrow, and when I'll order all the parts.:biggrin: I'm trying to minimize the number of shipments from at least 2 vendors by taking it apart first and seeing if I need any "surprise!" parts.

Thanks again to all of you who responded to this thread or sent me PMs with some very helpful and critical information. I'll take pictures now and then of things that were not obvious from the manual or the post referenced at the start of this string.

Happy July 4th + 1 everyone.

 

[davidf]

Just food for thought. While it's down that far, you may consider the rear main seal and inner axle seals. I did and sleep well at night now.:wink:

 

[IMS_NA1]

I'm thinking of getting the ATS twin. Has anyone had experience with this clutch?

http://www.ppi-ats.com/Clutches/Metal_clutch.html

 

[charlee]

Just food for thought. While it's down that far, you may consider the rear main seal and inner axle seals. I did and sleep well at night now.:wink:

I thought this was obvious, and front main seal too when doing timing belt.