RPM's not dropping all the way

[4AU4LIFE]

I have touched on this before in another therad about a different matter but am wondering now if this is a seperate issue.
Whenever I engage the clutch after driving at pretty much any speed, the RPM's drop as normal but will stop @ 1500 and hang up there for a couple of seconds and it is a little tough to get out of gear.
I can rev the engine again and it comes out of gear easier but it doesn't always drop the normal idle RPM's.
Could the TPS be getting hung up or the throttle spring not releasing correctly? It just started doing this not to long ago or maybe since I drive it everyday now I'm noticing it more.
Also, I'm starting to get a lot of clutch chatter starting out in first and shifting into second unless I double clutch.
Am I looking at needing tranny work for that?
TIA

 

[swerve2007]

vacuum leak perhaps? spray contact cleaner around the hoses and see if rpms change.

 

[VBNSX]

I had the same issue awhile ago and it was a funny fix.

If you look at the throttle cable there is a rubber boot that is pretty much a dust boot. On the end of the boot metal ring... what happened was the metal ring came off the boot then rolled down the throttle cable and would go in the wheel and basically keep the cable tighter than it needed to be.

good luck,

x

 

[mickeylex]

I suspect you might have already done this, but for the benefit of others as well. This is usually a fix for low RPM, but might work for you as well.

Try the clock fuse reset method.
1. Car off - everything off (climate control, radio etc)
2. Remove clock fuse for a few minutes (10 minutes)
3. Re-install clock fuse
4. Start car - and let idle. DO NOT turn anything on/activate anything. DO NOT touch throttle.
5. Idle for a few minutes (10 minutes) - until the car car comes up to operating temp.
6. Turn off car
7. Re-start; drive car; check RPMs.

 

[docjohn]

Good suggestion mickeylex,and a caveat for the 95-96 cars there is a more involved ecu/idle reset procedure,Larry B did it for me ,he said it is buried somewhere in the manual but could be easily missed.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

I suspect you might have already done this, but for the benefit of others as well. This is usually a fix for low RPM, but might work for you as well.

Try the clock fuse reset method.
1. Car off - everything off (climate control, radio etc)
2. Remove clock fuse for a few minutes (10 minutes)
3. Re-install clock fuse
4. Start car - and let idle. DO NOT turn anything on/activate anything. DO NOT touch throttle.
5. Idle for a few minutes (10 minutes) - until the car car comes up to operating temp.
6. Turn off car
7. Re-start; drive car; check RPMs.

I did recently reset the ECU when I cleared my 02 sensor code. Albeit, I didn't leave the fuse out that long. Probably a minute or so.
I'll try this procedure tonight and see what happens.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

Well, now after letting the car sit for about 5 days, I have had another problem arise that MIGHT be related to the original problem.
The clutch master cylinder is starting to leak just a little bit. I got in it this morning and the pedal didn't feel as smooth as it usually is. It feels kinda 'notchy' now.
I wiped the small amount of brake fluid off the rubber boot at lunch and then checked it again when I got home from work and it isn't any worse. I wonder if the master cylinder is controlling the slave cylinder and isn't allowing the clutch to completely disengage from the engine and therefore not letting the RPM's drop all the way down.
I had the OEM clutch replaced when he engine was rebuilt a few years back @ ~49k miles and it has ~74k on it now. Could the clutch have gone bad already?

 

[nsx24]

Sounds like a hydraulic problem, not the clutch. Read up on C-Speed link http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115001 about master and slave cylinder replacement