Rotor replacement - getting the caliper 17mm bolt off.

[MvM]

I wanted to replace my front rotors this evening. Jacking up the car and removing the wheel all went smooth.
However, I can't get the caliber 17mm bolt off, it is just stuck tight and hard to get to. Already damaged it slightly.

My question is: would it be allright to use something like WD40 or some other penetrative oil to loosen it? With the wrench I don't seem to get enough leverage.
I'm asking this because of the (OEM) brakelines with are very near to it and I don't want to risk damaging those, not by brute force and neither by using something that might work as a solvent.

 

[Ponyboy]

Sure, use some WD-40 if you like. I use some stuff called Liquid Wrench and after about 20 minutes soak time, nuts and bolts come off fairly easily. You may want to buy a breaker bar at Sears or Harbor Freight to help you next time as well.

Good luck!

 

[nsxtasy]

You may want to buy a breaker bar at Sears or Harbor Freight to help you next time as well.

I suspect there are stores closer to him than recommending ones thousands of miles away...

 

[D'Ecosse]

Best bet is use a 6-point socket to avoid rounding it, then couple that with a good beaker bar of 45cm or so lenth - or you can just slip a pipe over a shorter one if you have it to increase your leverage. a six point socket should not slip & should always be your preferred choice for tough nuts like this.
If you have to use a penetrant, WD40 is not that great IMO - PB Blaster is awesome stuff - I'm not sure if you can get it over there. I don't think you can hurt anything with the penetrant, but there is no need to apply it liberally - just focus a few drops down the seam between the bolt head & the flange - keep it off your hands, you don't want to slip off the wrench & hurt your knuckles!
Also, you might try turning your steering wheel to get the best angle to make good leverage

 

[DocL]

Any autoparts or hardware store sells what is called an Impact Driver. It is basically a ratchet driver in with changeable heads that you hit with a hammer. It losens screws a few mm at a time, enough so that you can take a scredriver and then remove it by hand.

I think they cost about $10.

 

[D'Ecosse]

I thought about recommending impact driver, Doc - the problem is getting room to swing hammer on the back side of the hub in this particular application, it's maybe not too practical?
Definitely a good tool to have though - probably need it for the rotor screws anyway!

 

[nsxtasy]

Any autoparts or hardware store sells what is called an Impact Driver. It is basically a ratchet driver in with changeable heads that you hit with a hammer. It losens screws a few mm at a time, enough so that you can take a scredriver and then remove it by hand.

We're not talking about the rotor set screws. We're talking about 17 mm bolts.

 

[j14nsx]

A quality socket set that holds on the flats of nuts is what you need to not round them. They cost more, but are worth it.

Also make sure you are turning the bolts the right way! Sounds like a stupid mistake but you are looking at bolts from the reverse side and the change from one side of the car can confuse the most experienced!

 

[DutchBlackNsx]

Also make sure you are turning the bolts the right way! Sounds like a stupid mistake but you are looking at bolts from the reverse side and the change from one side of the car can confuse the most experienced!

Very good advise indeed!

Personally, i would recomend NOT to use a socket, but rather a spanner (ringsleutel), because with a socket you are not putting the exact right force on it. (sorry, diff. to explain for me)
If you have a 'ring-steek' sleutel, you can hook a second one in the end of the other, which will get the little bugger loose.

If nothing works.......well....you know where i am............



Mich

 

[DocL]

Ahh...the bolts holdinmg the calipers on? I put a pipe on the end of a ratchet and hit it with a hammer. You need a good foot of leverage and then it'll come off fairly easily. The only time I had a problem was the first time I removed the calipers. After that they bolts cam undone with moderate pressure.

 

[canuck]

I bought an electric impact 1/2" wrench for driveway car repairs and it is great. It will do up to ~150lbs of torque with no problems. Saves lots of headaches.

 

[MvM]

Thanks for all the good advice.
I am using a spanner-wrench and did extend it with a piece of piping but the thing didn't budge and I got tired of trying. And yes, it is the first time is has to come off.

I think I will wait a bit until this get a bit cooler. Weather that is.

 

[KGP]

However, I can't get the caliber 17mm bolt off, it is just stuck tight and hard to get to.

If you have all four wheels off the ground, simply turning the wheel toward the wheel you are working on will make it very easy to access the 17mm bolt. Use a breaker bar and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Just for reference these are torqued at 80 ft.lbs(like the lug nuts, but not much room in there). So they will be a little stubborn for sure. A cheater pipe is in order

In regard to rotation, if you are on the drivers side and have the wheel turned that way as KPG suggests, you will be pulling UP on the wrench. On the passenger side, you will be pushing down to loosen.

Once you get the first one loose you will get the other three off is very short order.

HTH,
LarryB