right rear blinker stopped working (not the bulb)

[R13]

Weird huh?

It's not the switch on the column or the flasher relay/thingy because the right front still works.

It's not the bulb. I even swapped the bulb from the left rear to the right rear and still no blink.

I've done a little checking and I get continuity through the trunk harness for both the power and ground wires.

Any ideas before I continue my multimeter adventures?

 

[R13]

So, through some relatively thorough analysis:

Action: I jumped power from the green/blue wire on the left rear, to the connection on the right rear, then ran a ground.
Result: The left blinker command turned on the right-rear blinker

Action: I jumped power from the green/yellow wire on the right rear to the connection on the left rear, used same ground.
Result: No blinker of any type.

Action: I routed power from green/blue to left rear (stock orientation), but routed the ground through the right rear harness connector
Result: Left rear blinker worked with left blinker input.

Action: Continuity test on both power and ground wires in trunk harness for right rear blinker
Result: Both had continuity through the trunk harness.

Action: Continuity test from C551 (trunk harness <-> side harness) to flasher relay connector.
Result: Green Blue = Continuity // Green Yellow = NO Continuity.

So, the short version is that I've got a break in a wire in a harness that runs nearly the length of the car and is buried either under the airbox/trans mount, buried under the carpet, or buried behind the dash.

Joy. :smile:

 

[R13]

So, short story here: When something is working intermittently and/or trouble-shooting indicates a break in a wire inside a fixed loom....check the connector first.

I'll see if I can manage some pictures or a drawing to illustrate, but essentially you have a spade-type pin and a small square socket on the opposite connector. That socket contains a spring element that holds contact with the spade. Apparently these can just up and break and/or corrode to the point of failure if exposed to water or for other reasons unknown to me.

If the spring element breaks....no more connection....or possibly not one solid enough to run a light.

Upon inspecting the trunk-harness connector, I noted two sockets with broken springs: One was the blinker power connector, the other was the lead for the brake lamp warning light that's been incessantly on since I bought the car.

I pirated some good connector sockets from the car-phone harness I removed years ago, and I have a blinker, and do not have a lamp warning light on my dash.

 

[ftuhy]

Good detective work. I'm curious to see your pictures.

If we are talking about the same type connector, I've seen the "small square socket" connector get "expanded" from mishandling. I can't ever recalling seeing a "spring" in those connectors, but maybe you are referring to a different type connector. (need that picture!). I've been able to insert a fine pick and withdraw the connector piece from the connector body, carefully crimp it so it grabs the spade tightly again, and re-insert it into the connector body.

 

[R13]

Ok, I'm finding it really difficult to get my camera to focus on something this small, so I went with a horrible paint diagram instead:

Side view + view when you're looking at it in the connector.

The black outline in is the shape of the socket.
Blue is the pin from the opposite half of the connector
Red is the spring that keeps the pin in contact with the socket
Green/Gold is the wire lead crimped into the other end of the socket.

The red part was just entirely missing.

 

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

From your diagram, I think it is the same issue that is fairly common on our NSX if you live in a country with damp weather condition.

For some reason, Honda didn’t use WPC (Water Proof Connector) inside the door as well as inside the boot/trunk.

You can see several examples here.

[Photo by NSXCB member amrit]

Basically, the spring contact plate inside the female terminal just gets corrosion and breaks away.



http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?11169-Hopefully-no-more-ALB-TCS-Errors

The most common one is the sudden intermittent failure with the Lock/Unlock switch on both doors.
Sometimes it works and other times, it doesn’t.
It's the 3pin connector behind the switch.

The 20pin connector inside the boot/trunk could cause all sorts of issues.

[Photo by NSXCB member amrit]

Some owners experienced wheel speed signal failure (as in the above link),
‘BRAKE LAMP’ warning indicator triggered inside the gauge, etc.


Whenever you have a chance to access these connectors, best to apply thin coat of dielectric silicone grease to shut out the moisture.
I think Honda uses calcium based grease.

Kaz

 

[chudson1549]

good info
My trunk carpet is down already replacing bulbs... Would this cause the right tail lights to be slightly dimmer than the drivers side? I also had the "False brake light". All my bulbs are now brand new

 

[R13]

Thanks Kaz, that's EXACTLY the problem and both of the failed spring clips I found were in that 20p trunk connector.

chudson, look for the connector with the orange/white wire. I repaired that connection and got rid of my brake lamp light (or rather, it stays off like it should).

Now I'm going to check that door lock connector when I get home because I have that issue as well, lol.