RF Yamamoto Oil Pan

[MENTION=14824]BBVNSX[/MENTION]

Main one is weight. Years ago, there were a few that had sealing issues due to a casting defect. IIRC, RFY revised the casting mold and that is no longer an issue.
 
One question: can you still lift/support the engine from below on the oil pan when doing for ex. TBs without any ill effects on the RFY oil pan?

Weight 3 kg more and the thing is pricey...

Other question: what gasket will be used for it? Does it come with any?
 
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One question: can you still lift/support the engine from below on the oil pan when doing for ex. TBs without any ill effects on the RFY oil pan?

It seems stronger than the OEM oil pan... so I guess yes.


Other question: what gasket will be used for it? Does it come with any?

Only liquid gasket, nothing more! damaging the pan when torquing bolts is no longer a concern, much stronger and thicker than OEM :wink:
 
Increased oil capacity is another benefit, it would be interesting to measure sump temperatures of this pan vs stock, the fins combined with larger capacity might keep it a bit cooler overall.

The baffle looks alot like the SoS baffle which I wasn't very impressed with as it seems to have a lot of large gaps for oil to flow through. For the $900 price tag I'd expect a real attempt at baffles instead of whatever junk that is.

IMO, for the price, it doesn't offer enough benefits over stock to be worth it. If you want increased capacity you could have a stock pan modified including baffles that actually work and a real oil cooler for a fraction of the price and end up with something that works a lot better. If you just want to not deal with the crappy stock oil pan gasket there's a company that I can't remember right now that makes a metal spacer that goes in place of the gasket and you use liquid gasket on that.

Edit: Here's the oil pan spacer thing: https://www.nengun.com/ksp/aluminum-oil-pan-gasket
 
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I originally considered this pan for my build. My thinking was that the larger capacity would help with oil cooling (a larger heat sink of fluid) and oil starvation (more in the bottom of the pan during sloshing). Plus, the fins further aid cooling and you eliminate the annoying pan gasket leaking/torque issue.

Even though it does all of these things, I decided to stick with my OEM pan. Mostly because after talking to some of my NSX resources, it was overkill for my application. Still, it's a quality product and many NSX race cars use it. I bet a good shop can modify the baffle, as I agree it is not as nice as the Cedar Ridge version (which I put in my OEM pan).
 
If you just want to not deal with the crappy stock oil pan gasket there's a company that I can't remember right now that makes a metal spacer that goes in place of the gasket and you use liquid gasket on that.

Edit: Here's the oil pan spacer thing: https://www.nengun.com/ksp/aluminum-oil-pan-gasket
Thanks for the hint. Makes me want to raise the next question: who installed it?
I'm a little bit concerned about using Hondabond on there. No worms of Hondabond ending up in the oil pickup?
 
Thanks for the hint. Makes me want to raise the next question: who installed it?
I'm a little bit concerned about using Hondabond on there. No worms of Hondabond ending up in the oil pickup?

T3TEC also uses an aluminum gasket on many of their customer cars. They use a black sealant (definitely not Hondabond) on both sides of the gasket in a very thin bead- not nearly enough to squeeze "worms" into the pan. This allows them to torque the pan bolts to full spec without fear of damaging the pan. I bet the stuff they use is the Japan local version of Permatex Ultra Black. Maybe Kaz knows?
 
IIRC the mechanic who installed it used a black liquid gasket from WURTH, and also really thin bead as described by Honcho above!

Thanks for the hint. Makes me want to raise the next question: who installed it?
I'm a little bit concerned about using Hondabond on there. No worms of Hondabond ending up in the oil pickup?
 
IMO it's best not to read too much into what product x mechanic used in y application because it's probably technically "wrong" but still works just fine, I wouldn't be surprised if t3tec just uses whatever gasket maker they could get the cheapest with a bulk discount.

If you want to use the most "correct" product for this see what is used in similar applications in the service manual and use that, in this case the oil pump and rear main seal housing flanges would be a good example. Honda used gasket maker 08718-0001 for those applications (see page 7-21 in the FSM), which has been superceded by part 08718-0004, which is Hondabond HT.
 
I've been using the ARC version for 12 years or so. It's certainly heavier but the additional weight is down low. The baffles could be better and I've seen some pics of owners installing additional baffles. I had mine coated with a heat extracting film on the inside and ceramic coating on the outside. Have a total of 11qt capacity (the ARC pan, oil cooler, and all of the lines).

EDIT: the exterior looks exactly the same as the day I picked it up from the coater. Pretty darn good!



 
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Over the week end I fixed my leaking RF Yamamoto Upgrade Oil Pan. I used Permatex® Ultra Synthetic Gasket Maker only, no ruber gasket, using the Permatex instructions.
82135.jpg

Hope this will work better than my previous attempts to fix the oil pan leaks.

Gary
 
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