Replacing windshield top molding

Joined
18 February 2008
Messages
212
Location
Lewisville TX
The top piece of windshield trim molding has shrunk or pulled away from the the corner leaving about a 1 inch gap, I would like to repair it, I think the best solution is to order a new piece I think it is part #73152-SLO-013.
Has anyone installed this piece? I did a search and found zip about it.
It would be much appreciated to know what is involved, before just pulling the old piece out and finding out I've opened a can of worms:wink:
 
I replaced mine a few months back. I just ran a small bead of black ATV silicone before install to assure it did not fly off. Now just so you know you'll have to dig the old silicone out once you remove the original piece. Not a tough job.
 
I had my windshield replaced about a month ago (14" long crack from a stone). The installer used the same (urethane, I think) adhesive that secures the windshield to hold in the black molding strip. And he had to dig out/cut out the old strip, which was the factory original.

As davidf noted, it needs to be secured to keep it from flying out. Whether you use windshield adhesive or black silicon rubber, you will have to dig out the old strip the next time you replace it.

As to the strip shrinking from lots of UV in sunny climates, you might try using a wax/polish with UV protection on the black strip. NJ has no where near the same amount of UV exposure as AZ, but my original strip did not shrink in 13 years. So, maybe my using polish with UV protection on the strip helped. Its hard to tell, but it only takes a few seconds to wax that strip.
 
The service bulletin states that both the upper molding and the upper fastner be replaced, wouldn't the new molding go into the fastner or is it glued in place and removal would destroy both pieces?:confused:
 
I have both a new fastener and moulding but have not yet done the replacement. Looking at the new parts, the leading edge on the faster and moulding have hooks that once mated together would be difficult to separate. If the moulding is pulled outward, the hook edge on the fastener will be twisted upwards. It may possibly not conform back to its original shape and not ensure proper fitment of the new moulding. If the moulding is slid out sideways from one end, then the fastener could possibly be reused based on its condition. The new fastener has the double sided tape as shown in the TSB. If you attempt to pull the moulding out sideways, there's a small stop stapled on each end of the lip that would have to be removed. That stop prevents the moulding from shifting sideways once installed. Don't know if it's on the factory original moulding on the car but it's on the new one.
 
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