Replacing the rotors

[comquat1]

Can you replace the rotors on the nsx without completely removing the calipers? I guess what I mean is will I have to disconnect the lines and then rebleed them and so forth. I'm considering doing my front rotors and am just studying up on this process.

 

[D'Ecosse]

No, you don't have to disconnect the fluid line - just undo the clamp to give yourself enough free play to move the caliper out of the way. On the rear, disconnect the bracket securing the e-brake cable that is ~ 18" or so away from the caliper (as well as the brake line clamp as for the front) & that will also enable that caliper to be moved aside without disconnecting anything major.
Still, while you're in that area, not a bad idea to bleed your brakes anyway.

 

[comquat1]

I know, I'm trying to learn things slowly here, one thing at a time. After rotors it's on to brake bleeding. Thanks for clarifying though.

 

[Autophile]

Just today I replaced the brake pads on all four corners, using the procedure from DanO's website. You don't need to undo the brake lines or line clamps to remove the calipers from the rotors. Just slide them off carefully and hang them with a wire off the suspension.

I also removed the front rotors and inspected them. They have some faint hot spots which I'm sure is the cause of my brake shudder. I was really surprised to see that the rotors are secured only by 2 small screws that are torqued to 7 ft-lbs!

I'm considering replacing the front rotors. Will you stay with OEM rotors, dnyhof? How much do they cost?

 

[matteni]

One thing that is often overlooked is that the original rotors were held on by a retaining bolt. This bolt for many of us rusted in place and had to be drilled out.

When replacing rotors make sure any reminents of this bolt exactly line up the the replacement rotor "hole" so that your rotor and wheel don't wobble at speed.

I personally have made this mistake as have others - something to look out for if you were not the original owner to replace the first set of rotors.

Also - a goot tip. I have a power screwdriver and I use the biggest flat tip bit to "screw in" the rear calipers (allow your wrist to rotate as it spins in). A lot easier then using a different manual technique and forget about buying a "special tool" IMO.

 

[KGP]

One thing that is often overlooked is that the original rotors were held on by a retaining bolt. This bolt for many of us rusted in place and had to be drilled out.

Yes, but before you drill try an impact driver with a 3lb sledge.

Also - a good tip. I have a power screwdriver and I use the biggest flat tip bit to "screw in" the rear calipers (allow your wrist to rotate as it spins in). A lot easier then using a different manual technique and forget about buying a "special tool" IMO.

Wow, I can't imagine a big enough screw driver bit that would have worked for me. Maybe there was enough grime from 11 years that wouldn't have allowed it. I had to get a special tool, although I just bought a multi prupose brake caliper tool from the local Autozone. I think it cost about $3. Obviously, I would try Nicks approach first.

 

[comquat1]

I'm considering replacing the front rotors. Will you stay with OEM rotors, dnyhof? How much do they cost?

I'm thinking of going with some powerslot rotors from tirerack. Unless someone else has a better place to get them cheaper?

I'm doing things slowly, since I got my mitsubishi evo it seems that all my cash is going to maintaining these two cars. But i'm still single so you gotta do it while you can. I just took the plunge and ordered two new rear S0-3's.... yeesh, $500 bill right there! That hurts, I don't care who you are.

 

[matteni]

Yes, but before you drill try an impact driver with a 3lb sledge.

Wow, I can't imagine a big enough screw driver bit that would have worked for me. Maybe there was enough grime from 11 years that wouldn't have allowed it. I had to get a special tool, although I just bought a multi prupose brake caliper tool from the local Autozone. I think it cost about $3. Obviously, I would try Nicks approach first.

Basically you "wedge" the flat bit along the side of one of the slots so that it "sticks" and then you basically turn on the screw driver and the torque will start to move it in a circle. Allow you hand to move in a circle with it and it goes like butter.

I'll show you the next chance I get - harder to describe then to show unfortunately.

 

[D'Ecosse]

... I just took the plunge and ordered two new rear S0-3's.... yeesh, $500 bill right there! That hurts, I don't care who you are....

Try getting them in 275/30/19 - then they're over $600!!!!

 

[juejaimon]

When replacing rotors make sure any reminents of this bolt exactly line up the the replacement rotor "hole" so that your rotor and wheel don't wobble at speed.

Matteni,

If one is able to remove the screws fully, is it important to exactly line up the replacement rotor "hole"?

thanks,
Steve

 

[Autophile]

Basically you "wedge" the flat bit along the side of one of the slots so that it "sticks" and then you basically turn on the screw driver and the torque will start to move it in a circle.

I ordered the special piston retractor tool from Niello, but I went ahead and changed my brake pads before it arrived. I used a set of needle nose pliers to retract the pistons. I opened the pliers about half way, put the ends into the slots, and turned the piston(s) back in by hand. This is another option, if needed.

 

[matteni]

Matteni,

If one is able to remove the screws fully, is it important to exactly line up the replacement rotor "hole"?

thanks,
Steve

No - not if 100% is gone. Probably a good habit to keep it lined up.

Also- for others reading this - you don't have to replace the bolt. It was used (we believe) to hold the rotor on during the assembly process.

 

[comquat1]

our pistons turn in? They don't push in? So no c-clamp for this job eh?
My jetta is like that, maybe I should just break down and buy a tool set for that type of piston.

 

[matteni]

Fronts push in - the rears turn in.

I really need to make a video of my technique - you would never do it any other way when you saw how with a drill or electric screwdriver, a flat bit, and turning it around with the drill and your hand you can move them in SO easily in about 10 seconds.

Basically just "wedge" the flat bit between 2 grooves near the edge of the calliper. As the motor begins to turn - move your hand in a circle with the caliper. Goes like butter!

 

[juejaimon]

Fronts push in - the rears turn in.

I really need to make a video of my technique - you would never do it any other way when you saw how with a drill or electric screwdriver, a flat bit, and turning it around with the drill and your hand you can move them in SO easily in about 10 seconds.

Basically just "wedge" the flat bit between 2 grooves near the edge of the calliper. As the motor begins to turn - move your hand in a circle with the caliper. Goes like butter!

I would like to see this video!..... I think I understand your procedure...but the initial 1 or 2 turns for me required a little more torque. It may have been the brake dust buildup..

 

[LeftLane]

I'm thinking of going with some powerslot rotors from tirerack. Unless someone else has a better place to get them cheaper?

dnyhof:

I ordered the PowerSlot rotors from the guy who sells them on Ebay, and I've been happy with them so far. I think it was $195 for fronts, $150 for rears, or something close to that. I don't know the TireRack prices, so compare for yourself... good luck.

The install was pretty straightforward, as mentioned by everyone else already. I think the look is nice - juejaimon's pics show them off pretty well.

 

[VBNSX]

Speedbleeders


these things work wonders.
-x-

 

[satan_srv]

Speedbleeders


these things work wonders.
-x-

I agree speedbleeders rule. Get them for your clutch and brakes

 

[DanO]

One can also use the rear brake tool with a cordless screwdriver and a $2 socket adapter to turn the piston.

DanO