Replace Acura logo with NSX logo on tail light lens?

[95NSX-T Blk/Blk]

I read somewhere about how to replace the Acura logo on the middle tail light lens and cannot remember the site URL... can anyone help me out? I know how to remove the lens, but the site I saw had a template and instructions for adding the NSX logo. Thanks.

'95-T Blk/Blk

[This message has been edited by 95NSX-T Blk/Blk (edited 16 November 2000).]

 

[Nsxotic]

It is www.slipsteamracing.com . I am also about to do this transformation. I have a bunch of the reversed vinyl NSX logos if you'd like one....I'm a bit nervous about prying my lens apart for fear of breaking it though. Does anyone have an extra center lens for me to practice on?

------------------

Todd Arnold
http://www.geocities.com/nsxcessive/index.html

 

[TES]

David Nguyen's NSX site is actually http://www.slipstreamracing.com/nsx/

Couple words of advice though...do not boil the assembly for too long....I learned the hard way. Once the lens comes apart the remaining glue is a major pain to get out and it hardens really quick. I kept boiling mine little by little to loosen up the glue to scrape it all out, and unfortunately the studs loosened and started to tweak. I ended up having to re-apoxy them in.

Leave the excess glue in and just make sure you get a good seal when you re-glue/apoxy it. My second issue occurred about 3 months later during the change of weather. The lens got a spyder web look to it....hairline cracks everywhere. Not sure if that was due to over boiling or because I might have tightened the nuts to tight.

Still plan on replacing it one of these days, however I haven't yet. Not too noticable from a distance, yet it really annoys me.

Good Luck!

 

[Nsxotic]

As if I wasn't worried enough already///// Anyone else, that has done this, have comments?

 

[PAUL M]

I opened the lens a few times. Just make sure you get the glue very hot. And definatly dont let the lens lay at the bottom of the pot while you're boiling it it will def cause cracks. Good luck
Paul M.

 

[biophase]

I've done this to mine. It was fairly easy. I do have some small hairline scratches too. I didnt have a pot large enough to boil the whole thing so I just stuck half of the assembly in at one time. I think the key is to warm up (not boil) the entire assembly to the point where the glue feels like rubber cement. Then it prys apart fairly easily with a flat head screwdriver.

I think the spider webs come from the following:
Small scratches made to the lens while prying off the Acura sticker.
Using any type of solvent to remove the sticker residue.
Using too much silcone to the point where it oozes out the channel and into the lense.
and
Just plain scratching the lense while handling it.

Obviously, you'll get better as you do it, I've done this (or helped do this) three times and of course the third one looked perfect with no scratches.

 

[rquintero]

Hmm - Biophase, do you think that a commercial "hair dryer" (like the ones used to shrink-wrap products) can get it hot enough to remove without doing the boiling part?

And what would you consider a safe solvent, acetone type stuff?

 

[Hiroshima]

Did it to mine about a year ago and it has not scratches at all. However I left mine empty and think it looks better that way. But then again I am the type who would also never wear a Tommy Hilfi(whatever) shirt since since I don't want to be a walking advertisement.

back to the subject.
If you don't have a huge pot do this: Boil some water in a few small pots and then go find a roasting pan. Fill the pan with the boiling water and that should be more than enough space to submerge your lense. Do it a little at a time and pry the lense off gently.

I used std silicone caulking and have not had any problems with cracking, fogging, or spiderweb cracks.

HTH

 

[TES]

I too left my lense empty. Todd, I didn't mean to make you more nervous....it's really not that difficult. Just use the advice people have given and don't over boil it...leave the excess glue in there. I want to add....I boiled the assembly with the weight on the studs and at an angle...my pan was too small, and that's why the studs started to move after I boiled it too long. When I do it again, I will make sure I have a large enough pan to heat up the whole assembly at the same time.

 

[Tetsuo]

I didn't boil my lense....

Got a heatgun and went around the edge, where
the glue would be, for a few minutes...remember not to get too close or the plastic will start to melt. Pull the lense part....when you are done reheat the lense and the groove where most of the glue is, stick it back on and you'll be all set!

tetsuo

 

[Chris W]

Tetsuo has the best advice for this procedure. I should know because I have had my tail lenses apart 4 times now due to fogging inside the lenses. It's pretty embarrassing to have water inside tail lenses of such a fine automobile. For some reason I can't get them to stop fogging up.

Anyway, a heat gun works a lot better than boiling water and will soften the glue with ease. Only heat up about 6-7 inches at a time and pry the lense apart slowly. I also used a razor blade to cut away the glue as I pried the lense away.(the glue stretches like gum and you need to cut it away as you pry so it doesn't harden back together). The "ACURA" logo just pealed off with my fingernail. I also removed all the excess glue on both the lense and in the groove that the lense fits into to ensure that it would snap back together correctly. I used silicone sealant to re-bond the two pieces together. I also left the center piece blank. It already says NSX on the door pillars and on the bra in the front. I didn't need to have any more NSX logos. Besides, I like the clean look with it blank.

I almost forgot. When re-installing the tail lenses I only hand tightened the nuts inside the trunk with a deep 8mm socket. I put a little crack in one lense by trying to snug the nut with a ratchet. My 2 cents worth.

Hope this helps.