Removing seats DIY with pics

[goldNSX]

My car is put away for hibernation the next three months. Time to do some minor revisions. First taking the seats out.

Front screws of the seat rails

Removing the plastic thing with a small screw-driver

Those screws are 40 Nm with Locktite

Disconnecting the seat harness (1 plug, 1 plastic clip)

Removing the fuel door latch by just pulling (hard)

Removing the leather rest for gaining more room and protext them from being scratched

Out, the seat belt bolt gets unscrewed with the seat out of the car

I'm rich! I've found a coin!

This has been pussyfooting so far, let's get into it a little bit deaper, removing the steering gearbox (NOT fully documented)
Removing the black plastic cover

Removing two screws, they're 10mm but torqued with 23 Nm, so a bigger wrench helped a lot

Tie rods with sleves. The sleves have to be pressed out first before installation. Of course, I use new rubber parts.

Bolts on the right side

and of the left side

out

Reason for dismounting: The right guide within the steering gearbox has play by the extend it makes noise over bumps which is very, very annoying. Wheel grease helped a little bit but not for months. But now I'm finished with it. My friend is producing a new guide which is copper-based and self-lubricating instead of the teflon-based Honda used. On smaller Hondas you can replace them with OEM parts but not in the NSX which is not understandable.

 

[BTL3.0]

good guide..need to be stickie.

question, don't you have to disconnect the battery first to avoid the SRS light poping up after you unplug the harness under the seats?

dont know if that's the same case with the X but other honda, like my civic did that..should've unplug the negative terminal first,..

 

[goldNSX]

question, don't you have to disconnect the battery first to avoid the SRS light poping up after you unplug the harness under the seats?

You're right. I've already had the battery out after moving the seats. Good hint!

 

[NSXclear]

For my 1991, it doesn't matter if you unplug the battery or not. The SRS light doesn't stay on after you plug the harness back in the seats.

Unlike the stupid BMW cars. They stay on after you plug it back in and there is not an easy way to reset the light. You can't just unplug the SRS unit or unplug the light to remove it. You have to take it to the dealer or by a tool for $120 to turn off the SRS light.

Most Honda cars, you can just unplug the SRS unit to reset it.

 

[greenberet]

Reason for dismounting: The right guide within the steering gearbox has play by the extend it makes noise over bumps which is very, very annoying. Wheel grease helped a little bit but not for months. But now I'm finished with it. My friend is producing a new guide which is copper-based and self-lubricating instead of the teflon-based Honda used. On smaller Hondas you can replace them with OEM parts but not in the NSX which is not understandable.

Fantastic! Do you know why your friend made the replaceable guide out of copper instead of teflon?

Are you installing a prototype or is the guide ready for sale? I could use one myself pretty soon and I don't want to replace the entire steering gearbox again, like I did last time I wanted to get rid of the play on the right side.

 

[UnhuZ]

Hi,

hummm... why can't i see any photos....not even 1?!?

this isn't the first time it happens to me...



Nuno

 

[goldNSX]

Fantastic! Do you know why your friend made the replaceable guide out of copper instead of teflon?

Are you installing a prototype or is the guide ready for sale? I could use one myself pretty soon and I don't want to replace the entire steering gearbox again, like I did last time I wanted to get rid of the play on the right side.

My friend just phoned me an told me that a first prototype with a slighty different design (mainly lubrication) will available by the mid of January. It will be installed in my gearbox by the end of January I think. This is a first prototype. I strongly believe that the problem goes away for many, many k miles. I'm not sure about the material, it looked like copper (Messing). It's longer than the teflon thing and can take higher forces but also has damping capabilities. The material has been recommended by the EMPA after a test with the steering shaft inside the gearbox. I can't name the manufacturer so far as it's Top Secret. It's Swiss made.

We don't want to annouce a date yet because we'd like to test it first. It should be available in the first half of next year if everything works out perfectly.

 

[MIZZOUNNC]

hi,

hummm... Why can't i see any photos....not even 1?!?

This isn't the first time it happens to me...



Nuno

+ 1

 

[greenberet]

The material has been recommended by the EMPA after a test with the steering shaft inside the gearbox. I can't name the manufacturer so far as it's Top Secret. It's Swiss made.

Oh, too bad. If the guide would be made by Pankl in Austria it would be even better, but Swiss made is a good second best :biggrin:. But if EMPA recommended the material, that's all the recommendation I need. I hope everything works out perfectly and that I can buy one soon!

By the way, the pictures display perfectly for me with the standard settings in my browser (IE7).

 

[UnhuZ]

Hi,

well... i viewed the source of his post and the image links are all in there... but when i open one of them ("http://www.honda-nsx.ch/images/2009_11_29/IMG_1421.JPG") in a empty browser, i get a page saying: "Hier entstehen die Internet-Seiten des Parallels Confixx Benutzers - Die Domain "www.honda-nsx.ch" ist nicht verfügbar."

So i must conclude that this has something to do with FROM where i'm viewing the images :wink:

Nuno

 

[goldNSX]

i get a page saying: "Hier entstehen die Internet-Seiten des Parallels Confixx Benutzers - Die Domain "www.honda-nsx.ch" ist nicht verfügbar."

No, that's not your fault. That was my fault long time ago. Never mind. Never got around to piss the message off though.

Thanks for your patience.

 

[BTL3.0]

+ 1

not your guys fault..the op took the pics down i believe..i saw it yesterday and it was fine..

 

[goldNSX]

not your guys fault..the op took the pics down i believe..i saw it yesterday and it was fine..

No, I didn't. Still there. It's because of the faulty and bloody redirecting service.

 

[BTL3.0]

^^oh, sorry..my bad..hehe..hope u get it sorted out..

 

[goldNSX]

I took the carpets out today, pretty heavy stuff, around 10 kg. I leave them in and decided to do some noise reduction. First I did a non-scientific test where the source of the noise of the floor is most likely. I used a dB-meter and was hitting various areas with a tool which didn't make much noise itself.

There's not much noise from the outer frame, no need to dampen

The rear part of the mid-tunnel is also massive and quiet, also no need to dampen

The middle and front part of the mid-tunnel is thinner, obviously alloying more noise

Much more noise from the following sections, rear floor

Middle part of the floor

and footwell, thinnest and loadest of all, 86.8 dB

I didn't feel like installing Dynamats. So I've sourced another vendor with a product of coated bitumen. The adhesive is very strong but it still can be removed WITHOUT a mess. So I going to do the floor and doors and should be good with it. What do you think? Maybe a new color of the carpet will s*x the car up, right?

 

[UnhuZ]

Thomas,

now i see everything :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

excellent work... i too thought about install some noise insulation material... but it's added weight and the car is already too silent IMO.

about your steering box... i don't quite understand what you talk about your problem was... the "guide" thing....

Nuno

 

[goldNSX]

excellent work... i too thought about install some noise insulation material... but it's added weight and the car is already too silent IMO.

about your steering box... i don't quite understand what you talk about your problem was... the "guide" thing....

Nuno

I'm going to reduce the road noise to hear the engine more pronounced.

Steering gearbox: it has excessive play on the right side within the gearbx. We'll replace the 'guide' and hope to be good with it. The play came with 50k miles /80k km and sounded like something's loose on the front suspenion if you drive over slightly uneven pavement. The sound definitly drove me 'gaga' and I was about to buy a new rack. I think your car has not enough miles on it I think to hear it also. We'll NEVER EVER understand why Honda made changeable bushings for Integras and other silly boyracer cars but not for the NSX. So, my friend did a part for this task.

 

[UnhuZ]

Hi,

I'm going to reduce the road noise to hear the engine more pronounced.

humm.. excellent point...you convinced me :wink:

I think your car has not enough miles on it I think to hear it also.

How many kms do you think my car have ?? :wink::wink:

Nuno

 

[goldNSX]

How many kms do you think my car have ?? :wink::wink:

Sorry, I thought you were chippy from Norway. Sorry again. Well, I don't know yours. :wink:

 

[UnhuZ]

well.... mine is a little over 207.000kms now :wink:

 

[chippy]

just 62.000kms and climbing

 

[greenberet]

I would not use bitumen-based noise reduction mats. Butyl rubber-based damping materials from Dynamat or Second Skin Audio dampen vibrations twice as well per kg as regular bitumen-based mats, if I remember correctly. Also, I think the bitumen-based stuff dries out over time and loses its effectiveness whereas the butyl rubber-based stuff doesn't. The cost of the butyl rubber mats is high in Europe, so as always, order from the States.

One thing that subjectively reduced road noise a lot (I didn't make before/after measurements, unfortunately), was to stick a 1/8 inch layer of closed-cell foam onto the white plastic vapor barrier in the doors. You can still access the door cavities to adjust the windows and the foam weighs next to nothing.

And then you can hear the engine all the better!

 

[goldNSX]

One thing that subjectively reduced road noise a lot (I didn't make before/after measurements, unfortunately), was to stick a 1/8 inch layer of closed-cell foam onto the white plastic vapor barrier in the doors. You can still access the door cavities to adjust the windows and the foam weighs next to nothing.

Thanks for the suggestion. I planned to dampen the doors as well, I have to say with first priority as these are the source noise no.1. I first played with the idea of using the heavy stuff too but it would add too much weight to the doors. I have a look into the Dynamat thingy but may also look out for something in a local DIY shop with basically the same caracteristics as I'm not paying rip-off prices like $150 or so for an ordinary foam which can be sourced anywhere. Is this correct: you lubed it onto the plastic moisture barrier in the doors? Makes sense.

 

[greenberet]

The Dynaliner I used is self-adhesive, so I just peeled off the backing and stuck it to the moisture barrier. I installed it a few months after installing Dynamat Xtreme on the outer door skin, if I remember correctly. The Dynamat on the outer door skin seemed to make a difference, but the Dynaliner on the vapor barrier seemed to make more of a difference.

I'm not sure exactly what kind of foam the Dynaliner is. It seems to be some kind of closed cell foam with an adhesive backing. The list price of the stuff is $75, but if you buy it on ebay, you can get it for half that.

 

[goldNSX]

The list price of the stuff is $75, but if you buy it on ebay, you can get it for half that.

I had a look in the local hardware store. Well, they didn't have the right thing. So, I'm convinced to buy the Dynaliner. They only ship within the US, the Swiss store wants double the price. eBay will be checked next.

What the max. thickness which is reasonable in the NSX? 1/4 or 1/8?

I need two of them, right? Does the 1.3x0.8m is sufficient, right?