Removing rear wheel hub

[tunapie]

Ok, NSXPO is getting close and I want to get my car there. Anyone ever remove the rear hub. The big axle nut has huge torque and I am looking for ideas. I need to install longer studs to get the track wheels to fit correctly. Dan

 

[D'Ecosse]

Dan, it's a 36 mm nut with a locking tab on it - I had a 6 ft pipe over an 18" breaker bar on a 6 point socket & couldn't move it. I gave up on the idea of installing longer studs!
You probably need an impact wrench to break it. Then you have the problem of re-torquing it - it's 242 lb-ft!

 

[tunapie]

I have seen it but do not know how to hold the hub while turning the nut. Dan

 

[D'Ecosse]

Leave the wheel on with the car on the ground, break it then continue from there

 

[tunapie]

Boy, that is a obvious fix that I did not think of. I noticed your car on the rack yesterday. What happened to the A/C comp. Dan

 

[D'Ecosse]

What time were you by? - We were probably at Hannah's dance class! (We were out for about an hour I guess)
Pump has been noisy, decided to replace it.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Dan,

I use a dremel to cut a small notch on each side of the stake on the nut, then take a very square drift and give it a wack. That gets the stake completely out of the way.

3/4 breaker bar 36mm socket, 5' pipe. One firm push, it's off.

If you ever spent time with early VW Beetles, these were essential tools for a rear brake job (oops dating myself) + a big cotter pin. (I recall them being torqued to 212 ft. lbs.)

This is the best reason to keep a stock 16" rear wheel around. Agree with Ken, You really must be on the ground, e-brake set, in gear, and I try to always have someone on the foot brake too.

Just did it today, effortless.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[tunapie]

Thanks, all for the info. I was not sure if the 1/2" breaker bar would hold up. Now I need a 3/4 for the tool box. Wil it ever end!!!!