Removing Intake manifold

[Edresh]

The posting about screws holding the plates on the shaft on the VVIS unit backing out has me and a lot more of us concerned, to the point of removing the intake manifold to check them out.
Does anyone have a step by step on removing the intake? I checked the DIY listings and did not see one.
I and others I'm sure would find it helpful, I just hate taking things apart without instructions, always wind up with a few parts left???

 

[NSX167]

+1.

 

[Edresh]

What does +1 mean???

Am I missing something

 

[NSX-C2]

+2.

+1 means agree.

 

[NSX 888]

+3.

 

[nsxotic911]

.....
+4

 

[shawn110975]

OK I will help you out give me a minute or two to write it up for you.

and +1 means they agree with what your saying.

so if your asking how to remove something that person would also like to know the same question

so now there is 2 people wanting to know how to remove it.

if they keep posting +2 +3 +4 +5 now there is 5 people that would like to know.

typing the write up now.

 

[shawn110975]

yikes its a long process.

you need to remove almost the whole top of the engine

if your not handy with a wrench its not an easy job.

would take about 2-3 hours if you taking your time.

there are 6-8 12MM bolts that actually hold the manifold to the block.

your gonna need to replace while your there the gaskets.

goodluck

sorry sucky write up I might write a better one this weekend, I gotta go get a christmas tree tonight
if you have the service manual its detailed.

 

[Edresh]

Shawn thanks for the information, looking forward to the write up.
I can take anything apart, no sweat. It's remembering how to put it back together and what to do with the leftover parts I sweat, If there is something tricky,like having to reset something or recalibrate then I get the willies. But if it's just basic wrenching and retorquing
I ok with that.:biggrin:

 

[NSX167]

Thanks Shawn.

 

[shawn110975]

I will try and write it up this weekend if not by wed.

heres an idea what needs to come out

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

This is not too difficult and will take about a half hour to hour to remove if you have not done this before. This is a general run down. For details, like torque values, please see the service manual, which is available as a download from NSXPrime.

1. remove hose clamp for intake boot on factory airbox side.
2. remove fuel feed hard line bracket plastic cover and bracket.
3. remove cap nut on front fuel rail (a pair of new crush washers will be required. Take care to avoid fuel spills and avoid flames. Tuck fuel line out of the way.
4. Remove fuel return hose from hard line.
5. disconnect coolant hoses and electrical plugs for IAC and cold start valves as well as throttle body, IAT sensor, and ignitor.
6. remove vacuum lines.
7. remove throttle cable.
8. remove bolts and nuts securing manifold to engine.
9. it is a good idea to have a helper lift the manifold off the car as an assembly as it will be fairly heavy.

cheers,
-- Chris

 

[RedWings]

Here is a link to parts page for a 2000 NA2 engine, yours may differ

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray...tcgry5=INTAKE+MANIFOLD&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

 

[shawn110975]

thanks Chris I didnt want to type all that LOL

 

[Edresh]

Thanks for the walk thru, But until we figure how to fix with out just eliminating the thing I going to hold off, loctite has been ruled out along with JB weld, someone suggested RTV?? and welding the screws in place, welding scares me could cause the plates to warp, the weld could break off with my skill level same result in the end. Chris what do you use?

 

[biscuits]

Why would red loctite not work? Someone mentioned the temp limitations but were talking about the intake. Surely the heat on the screws cant be that much. I mean i know that area would be subject to heat soak from hotter parts of the engine but the intake air itself should keep it realtivily cool would nt it?
Ive used red locktite in some much hotter applications without any problem.

 

[ralph cerbone]

From my G.M , Rochester Carb Training throttle plates screws are swedged after tighting , this is a standard automotive procedure . The throttle shaft is passed thru the throttle body ,throttle plates are installed ,screws are inserted and torqued . The shaft is then supported internally and a cross die comes down on the exposed threads ,expanding them so they cant unscrew . This process cannot be duplicated with out the proper tooling ,however I have removed and installed many throttle plates. I back out the screws until I feel resistance then turn in ,back and forth until the screw comes out. I reuse the orig. screw , red loctite , then expand the end of the exposed threads . This repair is not for the unexperienced ,the consequences can be dire.

 

[ralph cerbone]

BTW some european manu.(solex and zenith ) would just roll the ends of the thread of the screw making it look like it would just come out , it you forced it out you would strip the throttle shaft

 

[Edresh]

Do the screws come through the shaft far enough to allow the threads to be expanded or Crushed ?

 

[ralph cerbone]

On the nsx plates I' dont know , I would assume they will protrude a small ammount, however i dont know how honda locks them in . Loctite has three products I use ,242 blue ( removable), 271 red (permanent takes almost 500 degrees to break it) and 290 green (used after parts are tightened it wicks its way in ). The last two throttle bodies I did I used the green ,no problems , just make sure everthing is clean and dry

 

[Track Addict]

I would imagine that loctite would probably work, but after going in and inspecting everything, to me, it just isn't worth the risk of having my engine become a very well engineered paperweight. After hearing the horror stories that others have gone through I think I will sleep a lot better knowing my throttle plates have ZERO chance of damaging my C30.

Just my $0.02

 

[d.n]

There are some more permanent loctite versions out there. Anybody have any experience with loctite 680? It is also green in color which I think is where some of the confusion is between that and the wicking version (290)

 

[ralph cerbone]

I know what it is , its is actually an adhesive . I have never used it , I can sleep at night using the red or the 290 green for these applications,never had a failure . However I still like to deform the threads , old habits die hard .:smile: