rear Toe Link from Knuckle removal tips?

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26 February 2006
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So I'm in the process of replacing the grease boots on my rear toe links. I toss a puller on the knuckle and out pops the toe link after some time. Also comes out the bushing stuck on the ball joint end of it.

So i throw the puller on that, and it won't budge. So would I be correct to assume that I should reinstall the toe link and pop the link from the knuckle bushing with a Pickle Fork?

Lemme know soon please, I gotta alignment at 8am. Need to hunt down the pickle forkor whatever at buttcrack AM when the autoparts place opens.
 
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Remember if all esle fails and you use the pickle fork, you must replace the tie rod end.

MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE NUT ON THE THREADED PART OF THE tie rod end or you will bend it, and that would make for a bad day.

HTH,
LarryB
 
yeah, I learned about keeping the nut on the threads of the joint a while back when I did the ball joints on my pick up. Lesson learned fast and tedious with a small file trying to fix the threads.

I ended up using one of those $10-$15 tie rod pullers, the simple one piece unit with a big bolt on top. The claw was too far apart to grab on both sides of the sleeve/bushing, but since the knuckle end isn't perfect round but odd shaped, it pushed the pulled over to one end and was able to cover one end of the sleeve/bushing just enough. Really quick simple, inexpensive and fast. It popped out with a LOUD bang. Though it slipped or broke something.

puller.jpg
 
Anyone know if this BMW puller is priced any less than the honda? Doubtful, but I think they're basically the same anyways. Even the universals are just dandy.

tie_rod_puller.jpg
 
napa has ball joint separators like that for 12 bucks each.

works well with the toe ctrl arm, but for the LCA, it's a little small.
 
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