Rear Motor Mount -- Does this look right?
- Thread starter jond
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http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51111&highlight=rear+motor+mount
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51111&highlight=rear+motor+mount
No need for hostility. This is an NSX forum, class up.
Looks normal to me but not quite sure what exactly you think doesn't "look right." The rubber doesn't look cracked from the pics but you're better able to check that in person.
The only thing possibly wrong is that it looks...a little too...clean.
The only thing possibly wrong is that it looks...a little too...clean.
I believe it's designed like that for engine movement.
As long as their are no tears or cracks you are fine.
engine mount looks like in good shape.
Big_D said it. The gaps is made for engine flex and travel. totally normal. as long as there are no cracks.
happy motoring.
Rob
Big_D said it. The gaps is made for engine flex and travel. totally normal. as long as there are no cracks.
happy motoring.
Rob
I'm not convinced. I can't see the other attachment point. Get us a picture from the part that is in the shadow (hidden). The mount attaches at two points about 120 degrees apart, or the 12 o'clock and 4 o'clock position.
This is the easiest mount to remove from the transmission, to inspect, if you suspect it has failed. I have seen more front mounts fail than rear, don't know why.
Brad
This is the easiest mount to remove from the transmission, to inspect, if you suspect it has failed. I have seen more front mounts fail than rear, don't know why.
Brad
Nigel,
What I did with my motor mounts was clean them real well and then filled the gaps in the mount with urethane that you would use to install a windshield. It isn't quite as stiff as the mount itself, but will just add a little more reinforcement. The tube was arount $10 and did all of the mounts. Remember, I LOVE performance, but it has to be CHEAP.
Brad
Brad:
how many mounts can you do the urethane trick? can it be done with engine still in the car?
Tim
how many mounts can you do the urethane trick? can it be done with engine still in the car?
Tim
Brad, DAMN, I should've thought of that! Damn good idea. It will be done! Just helped a buddy install a drivers side windscreen in an AC-50, (I hate fixed wing almost as much as getting dirty) so I already have some left over.
Thanks
nigel
Thanks
nigel
Brad: So you filled the mount with 3m Windo-Weld? I have used that before on a BMW bushings. Did it help stabilize your motor? Can you feel the difference? if so please describe.
BTW 3m windo weld is about $13-$15 a tube. It takes about 24 hour to dry fully. It was a consistency of a Silicone seal so it is possible to use it when mount is still on the car.
Tim,
Yes, you can. What you do is two at a time. Just support the bottom of the engine / tranny and remove them. No real particular order. I only did the two lower ones and the upper tranny one. I had the upper tranny one off anyway. If I remember it was the my prototype anyway. I think that the two lower ones are the ones that really take the torque of the engine, primarily the forward one. the upper two just hold it in place.
The reason the front one is, usually, the one that is broken is because of the heavier torque load. It has a shorter arm, i.e. distance, in inches, from the center of the crank to the center of the mount compared to the lower rear mount. The shorter the arm the harder the mount has to work to keep the motor from moving.
The rear, lower mount bracket hole is elongated so you may want to loosen that one when you start. The bolt that you want to loosen is the bolt that goes thru the center of the rubber part of the mount. This will give a little "slop" when you go to take the forward lower mount off.
You really need to remove them to clean them first, so the urethane sticks well. It would be hard to get a good fill still on the car. Also, you should give them a good inspection before filling them. When you get them off secure them in a vise and stick a large screwdriver or like object in the center hole and torque the mount and look for cracks in the rubber. You may need to replace the mount first, then fill it.
You be the judge.
Brad
There you go dude. No sense waisting that stuff, it isn't CHEAP, ...............if you have to pay for it.
Brad
Well to be honest, I purchased the car in Dallas, TX and drove it home with the lower forward and the upper transmission mounts broken. I didn't know it till I got the car home and started doing the timing belt and H2O pump. I didn't drive the car from 15 Apr 05 till 2 Jul 05. I did a lot of work on it and replaced all of the tires, so I had induced a lot of variables.
The one thing that didn't change after that length of time was you still couldn't wipe the smile off of my face. Needless to say I had not driven my car with good mounts to be able to tell the difference. I just wanted to keep from having to replace those mounts again ($$$) by trying to stiffen them up a little.
Brad
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