Rear Brake Pad Replacement

[Espritman]

I've quickly discovered that changing the rear pads isn't as simple as on any other I have done front or rear. 2 questions:

1. I've removed the two 14mm bolts so the caliper is loose (not the bracket that holds it). I have also disconnected the parking brake cable by removing the cotter key, small drilled pin and the spring clip that holds the cable to the bracket. The caliper still does not move far enough away to replace the pads. What else must be done?

2. "Spinning the piston back" is mentioned in some threads. Sounds like pressing them straight back in to allow for the new thicker pads won't work. What do I need to do here? A special tool?

Thanks, guys.
Espritman

 

[NCC-1701D]

I've quickly discovered that changing the rear pads isn't as simple as on any other I have done front or rear. 2 questions:

1. I've removed the two 14mm bolts so the caliper is loose (not the bracket that holds it). I have also disconnected the parking brake cable by removing the cotter key, small drilled pin and the spring clip that holds the cable to the bracket. The caliper still does not move far enough away to replace the pads. What else must be done?

2. "Spinning the piston back" is mentioned in some threads. Sounds like pressing them straight back in to allow for the new thicker pads won't work. What do I need to do here? A special tool?

Thanks, guys.
Espritman

I haven't done rear pads in a while.

But I believe on the rear caliper piston there is a cutout "+". What you need to do is use a special tool or 'scraper' style tool to screw that piston is clockwise. But make sure the circular tab on the brake pad fits into the cutout of the piston.

 

[Espritman]

Thank you. Can I substitute the 'scraper' with something I am likely to find in my array of tools? Does the caliper have to be removed to accomplish this operation? I'd rather not have to mess with bleeding the brakes if it can be avoided.

 

[NCC-1701D]

Thank you. Can I substitute the 'scraper' with something I am likely to find in my array of tools? Does the caliper have to be removed to accomplish this operation? I'd rather not have to mess with bleeding the brakes if it can be avoided.

You can use any tool that will do the job. If that means using a butter knife to screw in the piston without damaging anything. Have at it.

I cannot remember for sure, but if you have the park brake line off and the caliper is free from the bracket you should be able to install the pads and screw in the caliper piston. You should have not have to remove the hydraulic brake line or any bleeding of the brakes.

 

[ftuhy]

Years ago I bought a tool at NAPA for about $10 that was a cube with a different set of "tabs" sticking out of each side to fit many different disc brake pistons. The cube snaps onto a 3/8" drive wrench. I've used it successfully on multiple Honda, Acura and Ford vehicles.

Essentially, you screw in the piston until it bottoms out.

Frank
'96 NSX-T, red/tan

 

[Espritman]

Thanks. I'll give a go at a makeshift tool.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

You will need to remove the small bracket that holds the brake line in place to the knuckle. It will allow you plenty of space to move the rear caliper forward to get a tool in, to crank the piston back in. The piston is on a VERY fine thread, and it may take MANY turns to get it too retract, just keep turning CLOCKWISE, to get them to go in.

No need to remove the e-brake cable.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[VBNSX]

Thanks. I'll give a go at a makeshift tool.

instead of making your own, u can get a universal one at sears for $12.00.... much more effective and easier imo than making your own. (it looks like a cube)

 

[ftuhy]

One last point (see page 19-19 of the manual): after you screw the piston in all the way, rotate it back a fraction of a turn as needed so the piston slot lines up with the tab on the inner brake pad.

Frank
'96 NSX-T, red/tan