rear brake pad changing & parking brake line

[nikey22]

In the Danoland tutorial, there is mention to remove parking brake lock pin and clevis pin and move the parking brake cable out of the way.

Is this absolutely necessary just to change the pads, it seems that the caliper body (along with the e-brake assembly) can be moved out of the way enough to change the pads.

 

[Old Guy]

I did this job back in May. I can't remember the details; but, I definitely needed to pop the pin out and release the parking brake cable. Its not a lot of work - except for the part about getting the pin back in the clevis. After multiple attempts I gave up trying to get it back in from the top. Had to insert it from the bottom which seems to be fairly common.

If you take the caliper bracket mounting pins out to clean and re grease them as part of the maintenance, check them on removal as my recollection is that they are not identical. One of the pins has a plastic collar and the other does not. I can't remember which one goes in the top and bottom position and the service manual (at least for my 2000) does not differentiate between the two pins; however, the parts manual does if you mess up and can't remember which pin came out of which position.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I have never removed the cable to install new rear pads. You do need to return the piston to its initial position, and as opposed to the fronts you CANNOT just push the piston in, it needs to be screwed back into the caliper. There is a special tool for this, but you can use a good size screwdriver to turn the piston pack into the caliper.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[ftuhy]

For screwing the piston back in, NAPA sells a relatively inexpensive cube that fits a 3/8" drive socket wrench. It has multiple patterns to fit most brands of rear brake pistons. Worked like a champ on my NSX and other cars. If the threads in the piston mechanism have corroded a little, it can be more effective than a large screwdriver.