R - MIRROR QUESTION

[TANTO]

Like many of you, i'm chasing the R/S weight reductions and done most of them, but i did see that the R's and perhaps S's(?) don't have power door mirrors. I realize the weight reduction on this mod is borderline silly, i have to own it and ask - can the actuators simply be pulled on standard cars (92) and the mirrors will stay in place? I don't seem to be able to chase R part numbers. It would be unfortunate to do this and watch the glass flop all over. I'm down to 2678 lbs calculated weight and i'm now seeing the weight reduction "red mist". TIA

 

[vf2ss]

When I replaced just my mirror glass it attached directly to the actuator ... there would be nothing to connect the mirror to if its removed (4/5 below). You'd either have to print a 3D part to hold the glass or buy a Type R set [LINK] (note: the seller says, "since it's a Type R, it is not a remote control mirror" hence no visible connector coming out the bottom).

 

[Chris_Lum]

Agree w/above. If the R doesn't have power, maybe it saves a few oz and you won't have anything to mount your mirror to. I've taken my mirrors apart completely as well and a lot of the weight is in the base of the mirror anyway. Likely not worth the headache it would cause.

 

[MITA Motorsports]

Type S has powered windows. NSX-Rs do not.

 

[TANTO]

Those genuine green R units would look really cool on my Berlina! he-he. I wonder if they used a part 4-5 from another Honda product. Could be good winter project finding/fabing something workable. Having recently had to "pop" one of my RDX mirror glasses out - it was a bit nerve wracking. Thanks guys!

 

[Wild Turkey]

Type S has powered windows. NSX-Rs do not.

Does that mean that manual window regulators are available as OEM parts? Could this be a solution for folks whose windows still don't operate smoothly even after Hugo / @whrdnsx pulleys are installed? I now really want to see an interior door shot of the NSX-R showing the manual window cranks. Looked at a couple listed on BAT & I can't see cranks. Or are the windows fixed?

Side note for weight loss: Those actuators can't weigh more than a couple of oz. I assume you've ditched the Glove box lid for a couple of super-small bungies, or ditched the passenger glove box & light entirely and all of the interior trim behind the passengers? What about switching to a single console glovebox? Delete the lighter circuitry & the ashtray? Remove the interior lighting and door chime? Remove the CD & Phone pre-wire, and that useless rear speaker? Is there a single widely-acknowledged weight loss thread on Prime?

 

[Chris_Lum]

Does that mean that manual window regulators are available as OEM parts? Could this be a solution for folks whose windows still don't operate smoothly even after Hugo / @whrdnsx pulleys are installed? I now really want to see an interior door shot of the NSX-R showing the manual window cranks. Looked at a couple listed on BAT & I can't see cranks. Are the windows fixed?

Side note for weight loss: Those actuators can't weigh more than a couple of oz. I assume you've ditched the Glove box lid for a couple of super-small bungies, or ditched the passenger glove box & light entirely and all of the interior trim behind the passengers? What about switching to a single console glovebox? Delete the lighter circuitry & the ashtray? Remove the interior lighting and door chime? Remove the CD, Phone pre-wire, and that useless rear speaker? Is there a single widely-acknowledged weight loss thread on Prime?

Probably a typo from Mita. i don't recall ever seeing window cranks on any NSXR. And this thread is about mirrors, so i bet it was a mistake.

 

[TANTO]

Not sure if you are joking, but every few winters since 1993 i get bored and yes do small stuff for only OZ's. My Cheetah from my youth(see avitar) weighed about 1850 lbs so it's kind of a thing for me. I have done several of the above mentioned items, but maintain stock appearence and of course structural integrity and AC ! Everything else is on the table for deletion or minor surgery. There is an official "weight reduction thread" (sorry don't know how to get you to it- i don't think a search will do it - lately i've been finding our threads thru an edge search of all things). Attached is my current personal stuff. Feel free to ask about individual items but it's mostly eliminating perfectly well engineered factory systems (gasp now!)
ITEM SAVINGS IN LBS
SPARE TIRE 31
JACK 4
TIRE COMPRESSOR 3.25
R STEERING WHEEL CONVERSION 10.2
CF REAR BUMPER BEAM REPLACEMENT 17.8
CF FRONT BUMPER BEAM REPLACEMENT 15.4
CRUISE CONTROL REMOVAL 4.5
TCS REMOVAL 3.2
SRS REMOVAL 5.91
SRS WIRE HARNESS 1.44
FRONT LICENSE PLATE FRAME DELETE 0.7
WINDSHIELD WASHER TANK DELETE 1.4
WINDSHIELD WIPER ASSEMBLY DELETE 15.3
TIRE CRADLE DELETE 2.5
ODESSY 925 BATTERY 7.1
FABRICATED BATTERY MOUNT REPLACEMENT 1
HEADER REPLACEMENT (COMPTECH) 10
CAT REMOVAL 17
EXHAUST REPLACEMENT (HKS) W/SHIELDS REMOVED 15
R PARTITION WINDOW 4.2
ENGINE COMPARTMENT FAN REMOVAL 2.4
TCS STEP MOTOR REMOVAL 1.25
ENGINE/TRANNY REMOVAL BRACKETS 0.72
FIREWALL SOUND INSULATION 10.25
CF SIDE VENT REPLACEMENT 4.2
HEADLIGHT SKELETONIZATION 2.3
ABS LATE MODEL CONVERSION 14.5
ABS CUSTOM BRACKET 2
ECU BRACKET SKELETONIZATION 1.6
POWER ANTENNA REMOVAL 2.1
FIREWALL COVER PANEL REPLACEMEN TFOR MORE SOUND TRANSMISSION 0.5
CF ENGINE COVER REPLACEMENT-PERSONAL DESIGN 7
COMPTECH CF INTAKE SNOUT 1
BRAKE SPLASH SHIELDS 3.2
FRONT A-ARM SPLASH DEFLECTORS 0.5
CARPET MATS (MAY NOT BE VALID ? 6.1
TOE LINKS ADD .7
MISC WIRING 3.2 (pretty sure this number is higher as some stuff didn't get counted)
ENGINE HATCH AJAR SWITCH REMOVAL 0.5
HOOD AJAR SWITCH REMOVAL & LATCH MODS 0.3
CIGARETTE LIGHTER REMOVAL 0.25
CD PLAYER DELETE 10
AUDIO SYSTEM DELETION 19.8
SKELOTONIZE SUB COVER 0.23
SKELOTONIZE KNEE BOLSTER UNDERCOVER 0.55
IMOBILIZE STEERING COLUMN TELESCOPING 0.19
SKELOTONIZE STEERING COLUMN LOWER COVER MOUNT 0.4
SKELOTONIZE STEERING COLUMN LOWER COVER 0.59
RECARO CARBON FIBER SEAT CONVERSION 30
CLUTCH DAMPER R CONVERSION 0.5
CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH'S DELETE PLUS SKELOTONIZATON 0.5
TRUNK CARPET INSULATION REMOVAL 2
R FRONT CHASSIS BARS ADD 1.5
LEXAN REAR WINDOW(ATR-RACING) 18.7
ALTERNATOR BRACKET 7.2 pending
JUN ULTRA LGHT FLYWHEEL 6.0 pending
O.E. 3010 LBS MINUS total above = CALCULATED WEIGHT 2694.4
2681.2 pending

 

[vf2ss]

That's an awesome list Tanto!

Does that mean that manual window regulators are available as OEM parts? Could this be a solution for folks whose windows still don't operate smoothly even after Hugo / @whrdnsx pulleys are installed? I now really want to see an interior door shot of the NSX-R showing the manual window cranks. Looked at a couple listed on BAT & I can't see cranks. Or are the windows fixed?

Side note for weight loss: Those actuators can't weigh more than a couple of oz. I assume you've ditched the Glove box lid for a couple of super-small bungies, or ditched the passenger glove box & light entirely and all of the interior trim behind the passengers? What about switching to a single console glovebox? Delete the lighter circuitry & the ashtray? Remove the interior lighting and door chime? Remove the CD & Phone pre-wire, and that useless rear speaker? Is there a single widely-acknowledged weight loss thread on Prime?

It's gotta be a typo as Chris said ... if you look at the driver side switch panels for both early & late R's you'll see a pair of slits for the automatic window switches. Fun fact: there's a "coin tray" for where the dual mirror controls would've been. It seems entirely reasonable to conclude that R mirrors have a proprietary oem part that not only holds the mirror glass in place (since there's no electrical for it) but is also most likely adjustable by hand for driver optimization and safety.

 

[Wild Turkey]

@TANTO That is an amazing weight loss! Just wish that front bumper beam wasn't so outrageous so my wife would go for it.

I was wondering about the Odyssey 925 though. As you noted, at 24 lbs it is a 7 lb saving from the Zanardi 51R battery (or a 16 lb saving from the OEM Group 35 [MT].) And ~1 lb Odyssey mounts are 1 lb less than the stock bar/J-rods. On the other hand, an Antigravity ATX24RS is 4 lbs, saving an additional 20 lbs. Mounting the ATX24 with zip ties eliminates the 1 lb mount. Swap the 4.6 lb battery support for a small carbon plate (using the battery support bolt holes) to save another 4 lbs. The mount with a battery then weighs less than the OEM battery tray and bar without a battery - literally an anti-gravity battery! 25 more lbs out. You would need either under cover set plate 60535-SL0-000 (0.26 lb before Skeletonizing) to hold the front bolt of the middle plastic undertray, or make your own from a 12" bar of CRP; the aluminum is way over engineered. Another winter project?

I have the ATX30RS, which is an anchor by comparison at 6 lbs, and it spins the starter like a banshee on crack, but @DeHaldaswerth and several others have also found success with the ATX24RS.

I didn't see the tow hook and the tie-down plates on your list. Were they included with the carbon bumper beam calc? Aluminum radiator brackets? - only -1/2 lb, but easier than mirror motors. What about Ti lug nuts to save >1 lb, and > 1 lb of rotating unsprung weight at that? Some people claim unsprung weight counts double and rotating weight is worth 4x.

 

[TANTO]

Love the Odyssey 925, but a lithium is no doubt in my future. I made a bottom holder with tabs that go into slots on the bottom tray/ welded two alum nuts on the bottom and made a top "holder" which also mounts a disconnect switch. Zip ties or plastic battery mounts are a strong no-go IMO. I do have CF radiator brackets - I forgot to list them apperently -the OE's only weigh 7.6 oz, but did lose some more by making a CF front prop rod as well as hatch prop rod. Regarding the OE hold downs - when i did the OE R front stiffener the new R skid plates are heavier so i skelotonized 1.5 lbs off them which gave some nice holes for a potential secondary tow hook, i netted a 1.5 gain there. Would have been 3 lbs without the milling. I understand others make superior stiffeners, but the OE R units seem appropriate for my street machine. Had a nightmare about spinning into the grass and waking up to not knowing if a tow truck driver used a chain possibly bending my A-arms (!), so i'm keeping the frt toe hook and both rears (i may make alum rears later). I wouldn't want to go overboard - now would I? he-he. NSX a little too subdued for you and want more "drama"? Skelotonize the bulkhead panels/combined with R single pane mid window and all the bulkhead insulation removed and the old "sewing" machine behind your head turns "angry". The AC compressor will now be a bit louder, but the overall increase in NVH is small. Just my opinions. Hit me with more detail is desired. As retired i don't have CAD access but i'll do what i can.