Hi all, finally getting into wrenching again and have a couple questions for the Collective.
I'm in the middle of converting my R-12 A/C NSX to R-134a. I'm replacing the compressor with Denso 471-1194 (and swapping the pulley/coil assy from the old comp with old bearing unfortunately), new O-rings wherever possible, Denso L/H port conversion kit and labels, Denso ND-8 oil, and Freon brand Freon.
My old compressor was quite loud when the clutch was engaged, and I was running low on R-12 hence the conversion undertaking since no one works on R-12 anymore - frothy sight glass and barely cooling the driver's side vents due to insufficient liquid refrigerant to the evap. I've already swapped over the new compressor and hose O-rings and am currently running with the A/C clutch fuse pulled and no pulley belt until I can get the rest done. There was no "black death" or signs of contamination in the old comp or the lines that I've flushed so far.
1) When I opened up the old compressor, not a single drop of oil came out, so the FSM method of equalizing the mL of oil between the old & new compressors is useless. Since I'm flushing the entire system, how much oil total should I add? The new compressor came with ~110 mL already, and I filled about 100 mL of that back into the outlet side of the new compressor before installation (that's proper, right? Not into the inlet side so I don't hydrolock it?).
Google told me the total oil is ~147-162 mL (per https://www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/acura), is this true? The FSM table of oil capacities on pg. 22-65 is practically useless for me since it's unclear how many "20 mL" line or hoses I'm really flushing out and there was no oil to drain from the old comp.
2) I bought two green O-ring kits (Rapid Seal 26744 and 26745), plus the new compressor came with new black hose O-rings. Unfortunately the black Denso O-rings appear to be thicker than the old O-rings and they don't seem to be able to push fully into the fitting recess, so I used thinner green O-rings. Are they meant to be thicker and very hard to seat fully (can't really get it flush by hand), or will a thinner O-ring work fine? Not sure how thin is too thin.
3) What's the proper hose mounting bolt torque? Pg. 22-65 says 22 N*m and pg. 22-77 says 30 N*m.
4) What are the proper ranges for low/high side pressures that I should be looking for when charging? I read on Prime that it should be about 28 psi low/175 psi high +/- 10 psi @ 1500 RPM and there should be some bubbles in the sight glass at idle.
5) Maybe unrelated, but why did my A/C seem to randomly come on before this? My CCU is rebuilt and fully functional, but sometimes I'd be driving around with the A/C OFF and occasionally I'd feel the A/C kick on for a minute or two by itself. Not sure if that's normal functionality or not.
Thanks in advance.
I'm in the middle of converting my R-12 A/C NSX to R-134a. I'm replacing the compressor with Denso 471-1194 (and swapping the pulley/coil assy from the old comp with old bearing unfortunately), new O-rings wherever possible, Denso L/H port conversion kit and labels, Denso ND-8 oil, and Freon brand Freon.
My old compressor was quite loud when the clutch was engaged, and I was running low on R-12 hence the conversion undertaking since no one works on R-12 anymore - frothy sight glass and barely cooling the driver's side vents due to insufficient liquid refrigerant to the evap. I've already swapped over the new compressor and hose O-rings and am currently running with the A/C clutch fuse pulled and no pulley belt until I can get the rest done. There was no "black death" or signs of contamination in the old comp or the lines that I've flushed so far.
1) When I opened up the old compressor, not a single drop of oil came out, so the FSM method of equalizing the mL of oil between the old & new compressors is useless. Since I'm flushing the entire system, how much oil total should I add? The new compressor came with ~110 mL already, and I filled about 100 mL of that back into the outlet side of the new compressor before installation (that's proper, right? Not into the inlet side so I don't hydrolock it?).
Google told me the total oil is ~147-162 mL (per https://www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/acura), is this true? The FSM table of oil capacities on pg. 22-65 is practically useless for me since it's unclear how many "20 mL" line or hoses I'm really flushing out and there was no oil to drain from the old comp.
2) I bought two green O-ring kits (Rapid Seal 26744 and 26745), plus the new compressor came with new black hose O-rings. Unfortunately the black Denso O-rings appear to be thicker than the old O-rings and they don't seem to be able to push fully into the fitting recess, so I used thinner green O-rings. Are they meant to be thicker and very hard to seat fully (can't really get it flush by hand), or will a thinner O-ring work fine? Not sure how thin is too thin.
3) What's the proper hose mounting bolt torque? Pg. 22-65 says 22 N*m and pg. 22-77 says 30 N*m.
4) What are the proper ranges for low/high side pressures that I should be looking for when charging? I read on Prime that it should be about 28 psi low/175 psi high +/- 10 psi @ 1500 RPM and there should be some bubbles in the sight glass at idle.
5) Maybe unrelated, but why did my A/C seem to randomly come on before this? My CCU is rebuilt and fully functional, but sometimes I'd be driving around with the A/C OFF and occasionally I'd feel the A/C kick on for a minute or two by itself. Not sure if that's normal functionality or not.
Thanks in advance.
