quick question - CV boot replacement

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22 January 2006
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quick question guys,

anybody here go through the process of replacing their CV boots without a vise to hold things in place? is it a pain in the arse? should i go buy a vise, or do you think it's manageable? (i ask only because i don't have one, and i have nothing to mount one to.)
 
I have only done a cv boot change with the axle clamped into a bench vise. So I would imagine doing without it would be fairly difficult. If you could somehow hold the axle in place and follow through with your swing of a decent sized mini sledge it might work..........good luck.
 
are you talking about when you have to dislodge the spider? i have a bearing puller that i can use....

could i do everything else on "the bench" (aka kitchen floor)? i'm thinking that lining up the bearings would be difficult to do horizontally..... i'd have to hold those while i put the joint back together....

thanks for the input :smile:
 
well you have to seperate the joint and sometimes they get stuck. there is a cir-clip inside the joint.

So what I have always done is put the axle in a vise and cut the old boot off then I would take my 5 pound mini sledge and with one hand on the end of the joint and swing with my other hand and smack the back of the joint(the big end that the boot go's around) and hopefully the joint seperates, sometimes it takes a few SOLID hits and follow through!

When going back together put the boot on the axle, fill the joint and boot up with grease, slide the axle splines into the joint and pop the joint back on and make sure!!! that the circlip engages and holds it all together. oh and do not pound on either end of the driveshaft as not to distort the surfaces.

Hope this helps
 
ok, that makes sense....
thanks for the info - i definitely woudln't have expected it to get stuck like that.
i just don't want to take the boots/joints apart and then realize that i can't do anything until i get it into a vise.
 
well you have to seperate the joint and sometimes they get stuck. there is a cir-clip inside the joint.

So what I have always done is put the axle in a vise and cut the old boot off then I would take my 5 pound mini sledge and with one hand on the end of the joint and swing with my other hand and smack the back of the joint(the big end that the boot go's around) and hopefully the joint seperates, sometimes it takes a few SOLID hits and follow through!

When going back together put the boot on the axle, fill the joint and boot up with grease, slide the axle splines into the joint and pop the joint back on and make sure!!! that the circlip engages and holds it all together. oh and do not pound on either end of the driveshaft as not to distort the surfaces.

Hope this helps

Wrong car. The NSX CV joints DO NOT work this way. Review the manual. The comments above are applicable for an Accord;).
 
There is a center three post spider that is held to the axle shaft(splined) that is held on with a pair of circlips that you must spread. This is after the joint has been removed from the end of the axle.

It is very obvious once you have a look at the pics in the on-line manual:).

EDIT: Looks like the on-line manual is NA at this time.

BTW, really a pain without a vise, and every once and a while I get a really tight spider that requires me to jig it in the press.

HTH,
LarryB
 
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hey, does anybody know how to install the retaining ring on the inside part of the driveshaft (the big one that holds the spider)?

it's such a heavy gage i can't get it with my fingers, and when i try to open it up a little with some pliers, it deforms too much..... it's sitting in the channel fine, but definitely looser than the other side. i just don't want it to fail.

any techniques to getting this thing on?

thanks.
 
I use a piston ring spreader, and yes it is a PITA to do. You want to just open it enough to get it to rise on the spline, then open it wider and slide it evenly upward.

Getting it back on is more fun:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
thanks larry - you gotta put this kind of thing in the procedure for idiots like me. :redface: i was using a pick really carefully to slide it down the splines. but in order to get it onto the splines, i had to bend the ring a little.

i'm glad i didn't just leave it how it was. definitely not a part i'm comfortable with failing.

thanks yet again for the invaluable info; i'll be picking up a set of these expanders today :smile:
 
there is a thing called a quick boot. dont use the one that uses the glue but rather the blue one that has the bolts to secure the boots togeater.

They are an easy replacement if you want to do it yourself. I have had one last a long long time in my daily driver and i have had ones that didnt last so long. Its a LOT easier than pulling pff the axle and taking apart the CV join. putting that cv joint back in is like a 3 man job :biggrin:

ps the retainer rings are designed by the devil.
 
i use a piston ring spreader, and yes it is a pita to do. You want to just open it enough to get it to rise on the spline, then open it wider and slide it evenly upward.

Getting it back on is more fun:).

Hth,
larryb



hey larry, not to trow off the subject. I bought a 92 nsx and i need a headgasket done. Water pump and adjust the valves. Timing belt was done not too long. I am going away for a week and needed my nsx done when im gone. I wanted to drop it off tomorrow. I hear you ate a machanic? And you work for a dealer. I wanted you to work on it at the dealer. Are you willing to do it for me bro? Call me at 315 542 6485 so i can drop it off tom. But i need to know wich dealership you work at. Thanks hope to hear from you soon.
 
Larry didn't eat a mechanic, but based on his considerable knowledge and skill with the NSX it sure seems like he did sometimes, or two or three mechanics... :D Trust me, there is really no one better to service your NSX than Larry. Also, he is not affiliated with any dealer he has his own shop. Because the car is so rare, most dealers only see a few NSX's in their shops, so the experience level of the techs is not that great. There are a few dealers who service a lot of NSX's and are good, but they are few and far between. By contrast, all Larry works on are NSX's. That right there is reason enough to go to him. He knows your car better than pretty much anyone else and we're lucky enough to have him here in NY. :) For an oil change, use whomever. For a head gasket, water pump and valve adjustment = LarryB.
 
why does this car even have CV joints?? Its not like the rear wheels are "turning"???? what's the mechanical point of this??

Thanks!
 
why does this car even have CV joints?? Its not like the rear wheels are "turning"???? what's the mechanical point of this??

Thanks!

Are you Serious? U think we can run a live axle back there?
 
why does this car even have CV joints?? Its not like the rear wheels are "turning"???? what's the mechanical point of this??
Thanks!

The motor (transmission/differiential) is fixed to the chassis, and the wheels go up and down with the suspension.

In order to not need them, the motor would have to bounce up and down with the wheels on the car ;)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_axle
 
My right rear is slinging "some" amounts of grease but is not split.:confused: Any ideas?

This is the typical issue. The grease is like melted ice cream in there, from all the heat over time. The boot is designed to hold grease that is thick, not watery:). Remove it, get new boots, use new grease:). The "Boot Kit" comes with the grease and a new axle nut. 42017-SL0-000 I always do the inner and outer together, since the shaft is out.

If you let this go too long you can ruin the CV joint = $$$$$

HTH,
LarryB
 
If you let this go too long you can ruin the CV joint = $$$$$

Larry, are you referring to the grease being like icecream or loosing grease overall? The later one is obvious but what about the icecream (I'll spend you one if you're in Europe next time :))?

Thomas
 
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