Question on getting odometer rolled forward to match actual mileage

Joined
21 January 2020
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10
Location
Brighton, MI
Hello all,

The previous owner of my car replaced the cluster several years back. I have the records from the dealer that did the work indicating the mileage on the car and the replacement cluster when installed--does anyone know of a shop that can roll the odometer forward to match the true mileage of the car? A couple of speedometer repair shops that I called weren't confident of being able to do it without breaking it, but I'm hoping someone here might know of a shop (or know that it's not possible).

Thanks!

(Apologies if this is a duplicate post, tried posting earlier but didn't ever see it post.)
 
If you are prepared to take the cluster out of the car and have some time on your hands you can do it yourself. This thread describes the set up that member [MENTION=30613]Heineken[/MENTION] used to test his speedometer using a pulse generator based upon an Arduino.

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/213497-Gauge-Cluster-Tachometer-Driving-Puls-Specification?p=2014235#post2014235

The NSX speedo goes up to 190 mi/hr. Run the speedo up to the max with the pulse generator and you can add 190 miles to the odometer every hour. If you have a lot of miles to add to the odometer this is going to take a while - as I said if 'you have some time on your hands'.
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Yes, you should be able to do it. A rivet has to be drilled out and replaced with something [similar, rivet or small bolt].

Nippon Seiki is pretty much the same for that era.

The cluster has to come apart and the odo removed. It's a bit of a job and my guess is the speedo shop doesn't want to be responsible.
 
Thanks all for the tips. Mechanically I believe I can pull the cluster and get it apart, but on the electrical side anything much beyond checking voltages and continuity I get out of my depth pretty quickly. Do you think the simulated speed signal is the only (or best) way to advance the odo, or is it possible to mechanically advance the odo dials? Would one of the rebuild shops that do the capacitor replacements be able to do it, and if so--any referrals?
 
Using a pulse generator to operate the speedometer and advance the odometer is only a realistic if you have a relatively small correction to make. Running at the maximum pulse rate for the speedometer it would take a nudge under 53 hours to add 10,000 miles to the odometer. If you need to add 100,000 miles of correction that is 3 weeks of continuous running on the pulse generator. So probably not realistic if you have a large correction. Also, if you add 100,000 miles of correction to your odometer using the pulse generator it is the equivalent of 100,000 miles of real time use. It would be a bummer to make the correction and then have your corrected odometer wear out and break just after you re installed it.

Removing the cluster is not exactly a treat and it is easy enough to scratch stuff or snap off brittle plastic tabs during the removal process. Personally, if the cluster is working I would be inclined to leave it alone because of the risk of the repair going south. If your car is the 'roughest of the bunch', I would be more inclined to put effort into other things that need addressing. Just my opinion.
 
I am with [MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION], it's probably not worth it.

However, rolling the odo forward can be done if you are willing to remove the odo mechanism, drill out a rivet, remove the reel sub-assembly, and roll them forward manually (it will take a while). Once the desired number is hit, pop rivet the reel assembly back on the odo and reinstall.

Rolling the reels backward requires the complete disassembly of the entire mechanism...which requires physically spreading the holding bracket. I have some pictures, which I'll post later.

Get a cheap Civic cluster of that era to test your process and abilities first. The cost of experience is US$40.
 
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Could one simply connect the vss to a motor (after removing from gearbox) for those of us with older model cars? Just morbidly curious. I mean what could go wrong? Holding a drill to the vss for days on end, gotta kill time during these days.
 
Could one simply connect the vss to a motor (after removing from gearbox) for those of us with older model cars? Just morbidly curious. I mean what could go wrong? Holding a drill to the vss for days on end, gotta kill time during these days.

Theoretically ...

You would have to leave the ignition key in the run position for 'days on end' to power up the cluster and the VSS while you do this so you would need a battery tender of some sort. I forcast that about 15 min into hour 1 of the first week the temptation to pull the trigger a little harder on the drill and run the speedo past 190 mi/hr will become irresistible. You would have to be pretty desperate for things to do. I suggest a therapeutic timing belt and coolant hose change if you feel fidgety!
 
Theoretically ...

You would have to leave the ignition key in the run position for 'days on end' to power up the cluster and the VSS while you do this so you would need a battery tender of some sort. I forcast that about 15 min into hour 1 of the first week the temptation to pull the trigger a little harder on the drill and run the speedo past 190 mi/hr will become irresistible. You would have to be pretty desperate for things to do. I suggest a therapeutic timing belt and coolant hose change if you feel fidgety!

But there is pretty much no challenge to the timing belt for me! Even the thrill of the crank pulley "Popping" free doesn't faze me anymore!
 
The odo stepper motor on the odo is known to fail and this is bad. The VSS will probably fail a few times before a full rollover.

A cheap signal generator from Aliexpress will do the trick, just plug it in place of the VSS...for about 230 days if I got my math correct.

Remove the reel package from the odo assembly and using a drill with a rubber tube as a flexible linkage to drive the reel gears...will probably get the job done in a day.


edit: I'm not very smart, not at all. I missed the obvious. I don't even think a rivet has to be removed. Likely impossible to detect.
 
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[MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION], I think you have a point. I'm trying to parallel path the things the car needs (and that I can handle) but it's probably best to just leave this one alone. If I have to get into the cluster for some other reason maybe I'll give it a try. Thanks to all of you for your expert advice and guidance.
 
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