Question for those of you who have KW V3 on NSX

Joined
21 September 2002
Messages
2,039
Location
Lawrence, MA
I finished installing my new set of KW V3 yesterday. All we had left to do was level the ride height at each wheel. I'm going through trying to get the right height across all 4 wheels and I'm having a very hard time doing this. And something is striking me kind of odd about the front springs.


My current heights after 4 hours of messing around.
-------Front----------
D= 13" P=13.375"

D=13.375" P= 13.5"
------- Rear ----------

What I was trying to get my heights at

-------Front----------
D= 13.25"+.125" P=13.25" (+ to account for my added weight)

D=13.6"+.125" P = 13.6" (+ to account for my added weight)
------- Rear ----------

Throughout the 4 hours I could get 3 wheels to be exactly what I wanted but then one wheel would be completely off and I would then adjust that wheel and then all the others ones would get screwed up.

Now what is odd is that my current Front Passenger lower perch is almost as low as it can go (It's almost going to hit my upper control arm). My Front Driver perch is almost completely compressing my lower spring for the kw. I feel like this lower spring must be used for something so why is it completely compressed, yet I still have to go up even more! It's the exact opposite for the passenger side I'm suppose to go lower but I can't so now I'm stuck with this odd difference and can't adjust them anymore.

Anyone have any idea what I should do or should I just stop wasting my time with leveling the ride height and just have the car corner balanced instead?
 
Last edited:
First off, you should be corner balancing them not setting the ride heights. Take it to a shop that has scales and knows what they are doing - should cost ~ $200 and you only have to do it once. Plus you are going to need an alignment now too so you car has to go in one way or another.

The lower perch is hitting the A-arm only because the wheel has A LOT of drop. You can lift the rotor up (compress the damper) and let you lower it more. Don't worry about it hitting the A-arm, as when you put the car back on the ground it's going to be several inches higher than the A-arm and won't hit it.

Also, the helper springs are going to be full compressed with the car on the ground. Their only purpose is to keep the main springs up against the perch when the car is lifted and in full droop and if you go over a BIG bump they can help keep the main spring from "unseating" and then clanking when it compresses again after the bump.
 
Last edited:
First off, you should be corner balancing them not setting the ride heights. Take it to a shop that has scales and knows what they are doing - should cost ~ $200 and you only have to do it once. Plus you are going to need an alignment now too so you car has to go in one way or another.

The lower perch is hitting the A-arm only because the wheel has A LOT of drop. You can lift the rotor up (compress the damper) and let you lower it more. Don't worry about it hitting the A-arm, as when you put the car back on the ground it's going to be several inches higher than the A-arm and won't hit it.

Also, the helper springs are going to be full compressed with the car on the ground. Their only purpose is to keep the main springs up against the perch when the car is lifted and in full drop and if you go over a BIG bump they can help keep the main spring from "unseating" and then clanking when it compresses again after the bump.

Except when you jump the car :rolleyes:
 
PS - you measure ride heights per the manual, no idea where you are getting your #s from. Doesn't sound like from the jack points, spots in the manual or even to the fender lip.... :confused:
 
Sounds good then I'll stop adjusting them and just corner balance and align the car. Just thought I had to do so to get it started.

I was measuring from the fender lip to center of my wheel. I was trying to set my suspension in the upper range that KW specifies for the NSX. I don't want it too low because I know we have some bad roads here in Massachusetts.
 
My advice is to drive it for a couple of days first to make sure you aren't scrapping any where and are happy with the height and then take it in. You don't want to go through the process, get it home and then find out you scrape getting into/out of the driveway.
 
I just drove it around my area. I went through plenty of bumpy roads and train tracks to see if I would clear them. My car was able to clear it with the current right height. I think I'm happy the way it sits. I might try to lower it a little more but I guess I can do that another day. Thanks for the advice!
 
Back
Top