I've been admiring NSX's for almost 10 years now and I finally have an opportunity to purchase a 91. The car is black/ivory w/ 67k miles and is in excellent shape with approx $10k worth of modifications (nothing extreme, mostly bolt ons). I am thinking of purchasing this car for $32k. I was wondering if I am gettin a good/fair deal. (No accidents, Not in snap-ring range). Any help/advice wuld be appreciated. Thanks.
Question about value
- Thread starter Jai015
- Start date
Sounds like a good deal to me. Depends on what part of the country you're in...but paying anywhere from $25k to $34k for a '91 depending on mileage, bolt ons and condition of the car is reasonable.
The biggest issue would be timing belt and clutch....since you need to replace both of those around this time. If they haven't been done, you're looking at some $$ to add to your price. (or negotiate it lower)
The biggest issue would be timing belt and clutch....since you need to replace both of those around this time. If they haven't been done, you're looking at some $$ to add to your price. (or negotiate it lower)
Good points... I would say that it is a decent price, but if the timing belt needs replaced... plan about 30k in good shape..
The FAQ should help answer your question:
http://nsxprime.com/FAQ/BuySell/pricing.htm
The FAQ basically shows that $30-$35K is the range for this car, so your plan of getting it for $32K is in line with the FAQ. If the timing belt + coolant hoses service hasn't been done, see if you can negotiate a little lower.
http://nsxprime.com/FAQ/BuySell/pricing.htm
The FAQ basically shows that $30-$35K is the range for this car, so your plan of getting it for $32K is in line with the FAQ. If the timing belt + coolant hoses service hasn't been done, see if you can negotiate a little lower.
For instance, my '91 with 65k miles need all the gaskets on the engine replaced soon after I bought it. That was close to $1k in parts/labor alone. Just be ready for things like that...so if it's on it's orginal clutch for example, you can kiss $2k goodbye pretty soon....$1200 for a timing belt/water pump replacement, etc. My car was a one owner car with no mods at all however.
$10k in mods can be a good thing or bad thing. Could mean the driver was an enthusiast and took good care of the car...so things like shocks/springs have already been upgraded. Or it could mean that someone beat the piss out of it for it's life and she's ready to be rolled over to someone else.
$10k in mods can be a good thing or bad thing. Could mean the driver was an enthusiast and took good care of the car...so things like shocks/springs have already been upgraded. Or it could mean that someone beat the piss out of it for it's life and she's ready to be rolled over to someone else.
Thanks for all the information. I've been informed that the gaskets, timing belt, and water pump has been replaced.
Osiris_x11
Gold Member, Moderator: Marketplace
mod' or mad?!?
What are the quote-unquote mods'...
(ie. wheels, I/H/E, audio/video, body-kit, suspension, swine-seatcovers, velour headliner, cayman wheel-wrap, chrome fender-trim, etc'...)
What are the quote-unquote mods'...
(ie. wheels, I/H/E, audio/video, body-kit, suspension, swine-seatcovers, velour headliner, cayman wheel-wrap, chrome fender-trim, etc'...)
Jai015 said:
If that's the truth, I'd buy that car. I bought mine for $29k with 65k miles and no mods. So I would think $10k of the right mods is more than worth the $3k difference in our cars...oh, and mine hasn't had the timing belt done yet. (Zahntech, please hurry up with your project!
)But then again, I seem to pay more for cars, because a lot of people quote prices that I never seem to come across.
Price is an interesting thing. My first plan would be to use Kelly Blue Book. Then add for the modifications you personally would have made. You shouldn't pay for mods of no interest.
You should also check past sales on Ebay. Look at year vs. mileage vs. sales price. Only use data from cars that actually sell. If they didn't sell, then no value can be determined. Ebay tends to be the lower end of price on the market but we are all interested in paying on the lower end and selling on the high end.
Asking someone who owns a car the value of the car is good for a basic understanding, but there is a tendency for owners to over-value their cars. The people on this web site tend to have the "best of the breed" cars and that may also contribute to a slightly higher valuation.
Once you get above $30K, you can start considering "T" versions of the cars. If you don't plan on going to the track, I would consider a 95 or 96 for $30K +. The "T" is a nice trade for a slightly slower car. Drive both and see what you like.
I've seen 97's with less than 90K miles selling for under $40K. I would certainly rather have a 97 with under 90K miles than any 91 with 60K+ miles with mods.
Plan to spend a few months shopping. Make some low offers and see if you get a bite. If you haven't bought something in 3 months, you are probably bidding low. Be willing to do a little traveling for the right car.
Mine is just opinion....
You should also check past sales on Ebay. Look at year vs. mileage vs. sales price. Only use data from cars that actually sell. If they didn't sell, then no value can be determined. Ebay tends to be the lower end of price on the market but we are all interested in paying on the lower end and selling on the high end.
Asking someone who owns a car the value of the car is good for a basic understanding, but there is a tendency for owners to over-value their cars. The people on this web site tend to have the "best of the breed" cars and that may also contribute to a slightly higher valuation.
Once you get above $30K, you can start considering "T" versions of the cars. If you don't plan on going to the track, I would consider a 95 or 96 for $30K +. The "T" is a nice trade for a slightly slower car. Drive both and see what you like.
I've seen 97's with less than 90K miles selling for under $40K. I would certainly rather have a 97 with under 90K miles than any 91 with 60K+ miles with mods.
Plan to spend a few months shopping. Make some low offers and see if you get a bite. If you haven't bought something in 3 months, you are probably bidding low. Be willing to do a little traveling for the right car.
Mine is just opinion....
cfra7 said:
I adjust values of vehicles for a living. We do not use KBB, nor does any insurance company that I know of.
Your best bet is to use NADA, which is more universally used. The online version (free) is not nearly as acurate as the service the insurance companies pay for, but it is still more accurate than KBB, which just comes up with a national average. NADA works better becuase you can find the value of your vehicle for the region you reside, which is what your insurance company will use to determine the value of your vehicle.
Given this, some companies, ie Farmers, usa a program called CCC, which is based on market searches.
Now, if you have absorbed all of this, realize that NADA and the NSX do not match up, as the NSX almost always sells over NADA. Just be careful, you will have to argue with your insurance company if you total it becuase the value they will place on your vehicle will likely be incorrect.
In my case, I was willing to spend about 3% more than what NADA had the car valued at. My car is coming with modifications, timing belt done, and 75% tread on the tires.
JM
Your best bet is to use NADA, which is more universally used. The online version (free) is not nearly as acurate as the service the insurance companies pay for, but it is still more accurate than KBB, which just comes up with a national average. NADA works better becuase you can find the value of your vehicle for the region you reside, which is what your insurance company will use to determine the value of your vehicle.
Given this, some companies, ie Farmers, usa a program called CCC, which is based on market searches.
Now, if you have absorbed all of this, realize that NADA and the NSX do not match up, as the NSX almost always sells over NADA. Just be careful, you will have to argue with your insurance company if you total it becuase the value they will place on your vehicle will likely be incorrect.
In my case, I was willing to spend about 3% more than what NADA had the car valued at. My car is coming with modifications, timing belt done, and 75% tread on the tires.
JM
Kelly Blue Book is wildly inaccurate for low-volume cars like the NSX.cfra7 said:
johnny010 said:
Hey Johnnie, I've been reading your thread about the purchase of your 93 NSX. Do you mind if I ask how much you've purchased it for?
cfra7 said:
I paid $27,000 for a 1991 with about 80K miles 6 years ago. If you shop around you can get a good deal.
Now if you want to see the tracking of sales prices done right, as opposed to the little NSX Prime doc, go to:
http://www.fordgtprices.com/pages/9/index.htm
http://www.fordgtprices.com/pages/9/index.htm
Don't spin your wheels with KBB, NADA, eBay (especially avoid eBay) or anecdotal quotes you read on a forum. On average, prices tend to fall where the NSXPrime pricing guide puts them.
Use the NSXPrime pricing guide: this guide gives you the information you need to adequately value an NSX.
Here it is again: http://nsxprime.com/FAQ/BuySell/pricing.htm
You won't find a good/clean T model for under $35K. Likewise, you won't find a good/clean 97+ for less than $40K. You will find poor condition; "D" or lower grade cars in that range.
I'm making an assumption here, but I'm guessing that you want a clean title, avg. to lower miles and maintenance up-to-date car.
Use the Prime pricing guide and your gut feelings. They won't let you down.
Use the NSXPrime pricing guide: this guide gives you the information you need to adequately value an NSX.
Here it is again: http://nsxprime.com/FAQ/BuySell/pricing.htm
You won't find a good/clean T model for under $35K. Likewise, you won't find a good/clean 97+ for less than $40K. You will find poor condition; "D" or lower grade cars in that range.
I'm making an assumption here, but I'm guessing that you want a clean title, avg. to lower miles and maintenance up-to-date car.
Use the Prime pricing guide and your gut feelings. They won't let you down.
i just bought a 91 black/ivory 2 months ago; all stock, awesome condition, 53kmi, 2 owners, clean record, $27,101.... from a dealership. :smile:
i don't know if the timing belt has been changed though.... so i gotta do that.... STILL debating on if i wanna do it or pay somebody....
i don't know if the timing belt has been changed though.... so i gotta do that.... STILL debating on if i wanna do it or pay somebody....
mickeylex: Yeah, don't use NADA, that would be stupid. Buy the car, pay $10K more for it than book, then total it on day one, and then call me.
You should be safe paying roughly 3 to 5% more than NADA, for an NSX in great shape. Again, this is from an insurance perspective.
The guide, Mickeylex, you posted to is pretty good, but if you don't follow my rule of thumb, and jack your car, YOU WILL end upside down on your loan. Just because the market sustains, say 8% higher than the insurance companies evaluation, does not mean you will get that 8% back if you wreck the car. Granted, a 3% loss on 35k is roughly only $1,000, which most can fork over buying this type of car.
Also, you will have to fight your insurance company to get the extra 5% I mentioned above, as NADA isn't correct on these cars, and that is where their evaluation will likely come from (State Farm, Progressive, Geico, All State).
Do not use KBB as it is not even remotely close. I think for my 1993 it says it is worth $19,000, and the NADA value is around $32,500.
You should be safe paying roughly 3 to 5% more than NADA, for an NSX in great shape. Again, this is from an insurance perspective.
The guide, Mickeylex, you posted to is pretty good, but if you don't follow my rule of thumb, and jack your car, YOU WILL end upside down on your loan. Just because the market sustains, say 8% higher than the insurance companies evaluation, does not mean you will get that 8% back if you wreck the car. Granted, a 3% loss on 35k is roughly only $1,000, which most can fork over buying this type of car.
Also, you will have to fight your insurance company to get the extra 5% I mentioned above, as NADA isn't correct on these cars, and that is where their evaluation will likely come from (State Farm, Progressive, Geico, All State).
Do not use KBB as it is not even remotely close. I think for my 1993 it says it is worth $19,000, and the NADA value is around $32,500.
Jai015 said:
Just to let you know, I saw a real real clean 1991, with no paint chips even, go for $32K, no modifications, but had 42K miles. If the one you are looking at has 60K miles and has had the service/timing belt, I would feel comfortable.......although it would still not make me as happy as buying a car with 25K miles for maybe $2000 more.
As for insurance, I think many NSX owners have agreed value policies. I don't want to deal with aggravation of trying to figure out the market value of my NSX if something happens.johnny010 said:
I think your point is that insurance companies have a big influence on the market price of the vehicles. That point is well taken, but should be considered with all the other variables from a prospective buyer.
cfra7 said:
cfra7 said:
The deals some people find makes me jealous. :biggrin:
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