pulling transmission

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17 February 2004
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41
I ran into some problems and now i cant get into 4th gear, its completely locked out. We think its a shifter fork. In order for my mechanic to work on it he wants it out of the car. Me and my dad are going to try and pull the transmission out and it looks rather easy. Just trying to get any tips or forewarnings i can about doing it. thanks
 
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Did you download the service manual from the main page? If not, wouldn't be bad idea.

Good luck
 
Check the shifter linkage and cable first. You will need to make sure they are in good working order even if you R&R the tranny. I think it is possible for the bushings to bind in such a way to make shifting progressively worse.

Biggest pain will be getting the clutch to align, putting it back together. Make sure to mark the suspension adjustments before you start un-bolting the camber adjusters, toe links will keep their adjustment. I am sure you need to remove your brake lines to have enough movement on the knuckles to swing the axles out of the housing. Wrap rags aroung the axle splines and zip tie them in place to keep from bunging the ends. Make sure to have the special clutch grease on hand for the throw out bearing and engagment fork.

Pages 13-6 to 13-10 give you step by step instructions so you know what you are up against. Take your time and you will do fine, nothing is hard to do with this job, just lots of steps. You will be taking out 2 of the 4 motor mounts so make sure the engine is held securely while you are working.
 
You wil have to loosen 3 of 4 enginemounts, there is enough slack on the brake lines if you unscrew all small bolts which keep it in place(do not disconnect and be carefull)

The nut of the axle will need an airwrench too loosen, if you dont unscrew the clutch than you can put it back on easy, if renewed (recommended) then you can use the axle from the transmission(while it is openfor repair).

I always take of the left axle while it is very hard to put the tranny on without damaging the seals.
 
I've seen a few aproaches for taking the gearbox off.
I've done it the last time, exactly as how the manual says to, and thats exactly the way which makes it the easiest.

Mich
 
It is interesting how we all seem to have slightly different ways to perform the same job. I agree completely about the axle seals, they are fragile. I remove the lower shock mounting bolts and let the rear sway bar hang loose off it's mounts. Then the rear left knuckle will swing up and out freely and you can clear the left axle from the seal. This also helps make the right side easy too. It is quite easy if you have a helper for about 30 sec:).

I also take off three motor mounts, and the front beam. The way I see it, the front beam is just big and in the way, and easy to remove. Once out, things open up and it is easy to work.

I only loosen the speed sensor wires(3 bolts/side) on the lower arms and the rear beam, but leave brake lines connected.

Cees-Jan,

When you remove the nut, Do you remove the spline end of the drive shaft out of the knuckle first, then take the drive shaft out of the transmission?? Is it difficult to remove the outboard end??

Thanks,
LarryB
 
Yes I first remove the nuklle out of the wheel bearing (iron parts), than you have more slack to gently pull it out of the tranny(tender oil seal).I also give slack on the wheel sensor(ALB) to keep the wire undamaged.

I have to tell you that this part of the operation is by far the most difficult specially compared to civic or accord or any FWD.Most of this problem comes out of the rubber suspension part being stiff and the rotor and brake heavy.:(
 
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