Pre 1997 vs Post 1997 NSX's

bonhamsurf

bonhamsurf

Experienced Member
Joined
15 November 2007
Messages
644
Location
Honolulu, HI
So I've made the decision to buy an NSX. I currently own an M3 that I am considering selling with my Harley for a higher priced NSX, or if that doesn't work, then looking for a more reasonably priced NSX. I live in Hawaii, so shipping/etc is a cost factor, and there is a 2002 here that I love and intend on trying to purchase, asking price is in the mid 50's, it's been very well kept and taken care of.

But now that I have made the decision to finally buy my dream car (Yes, I would take an NSX over a 2012 GTR, almost any Porsche/BMW/ETC/ETC). I've been a fanatic for many years, and a lurker on this site for 4 years.

Anyways, here's my question to current NSX owners. The earlier model with the 3.0L/5sp v/s the 3.2L 6sp?

Please know my intentions as you answer.
1. If I purchase this one currently available in Hawaii, I probably won't mod it. It's too well kept and beautiful to make any big changes to it.

2. BUT if that falls through, I will find one, and I will either do headers/exhaust/supercharger OR turbo it.

So using Option 2 in the event I purchase an older one...
Is the post 1997 3.2l 6sp worth holding out for, or since I'm modding, it doesn't really matter?
My budget to buy one to mod would be in the 15-35 range (wide range, but of course something pristine or something that already had Pure or Comptech exhaust/headers or other mods would be partway towards my goal and worth the extra $$.)

To give you an idea, if I wasn't buying an NSX, I am most of the way through finishing my M3, I am 2 weeks and just the labor cost away from making it a 420-450rwhp car,
and if I modded an NSX, I would be looking to achieve around the same power.

I appreciate the help, comments, criticism, etc. When I do own an NSX, and I will within 120 days, I will certainly be a contributor to the site to help the next person. Pay It Forward, always....
Mahalo
 
Buy one based on condition and price. Just make sure the timing belt, water pump, etc maintenance have been done within spec mileage.

1. There is about a half second difference between the heaviest/least powerful MT NSX to the lightest NSX/most powerful MT NSX in stock form. Many will exaggerate these numbers, but low 13s for 6 speeds (~260whp) and high 13s for 5 speeds (~240whp). End of discussion

2. If you are going to mod, buy earlier years because they are readily more available and cheaper.

3. From 91-2005, the changes for performance were very subtle. The aesthetics were more drastic over the years and subjective. Each group will try to justify why their segment is better or good enough. "My coupe is more rigid than your targa" or "my frog eyes looks more modern". Either way, ultimately, you have a stock 13 second car in MT package and once modding is introduced the gaps are closed. So again, buy based on condition and price.

The 02 with 75k miles is interesting. It has more mileage so it would make sense to mod as it would not count as a collectible anymore and has ventured into daily driving category. The issue is I believe the seller is asking too much for a higher mileage NSX. I suppose he could demand it since it's in Hawaii and it would be harder to procure our cars there.
 
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N Spec said:
Buy one based on condition and price. Just make sure the timing belt, water pump, etc maintenance have been done within spec mileage.

1. There is about a half second difference between the heaviest/least powerful MT NSX to the lightest NSX/most powerful MT NSX in stock form. Many will exaggerate these numbers, but low 13s for 6 speeds (~260whp) and high 13s for 5 speeds (~240whp). End of discussion

2. If you are going to mod, buy earlier years because they are readily more available and cheaper.

3. From 91-2005, the changes for performance were very subtle. The aesthetics were more drastic over the years and subjective. Each group will try to justify why their segment is better or good enough. "My coupe is more rigid than your targa" or "my frog eyes looks more modern". Either way, ultimately, you have a stock 13 second car in MT package and once modding is introduced the gaps are closed. So again, buy based on condition and price.

The 02 with 75k miles is interesting. It has more mileage so it would make sense to mod as it would not count as a collectible anymore and has ventured into daily driving category. The issue is I believe the seller is asking too much for a higher mileage NSX. I suppose he could demand it since it's in Hawaii and it would be harder to procure our cars there.
Click to expand...

Excellent feedback. Thank you. Was there ever a real "Convertible" nsx? I saw one today for sale that had a canvas top and def. not a Targa. Body was a mid 1990's, I forget the year.
 
No, they were custom conversions done. It would make more sense to convert 95+ NSXs to convertibles since they have the proper reinforcements from factory, but again, the 91-92 models are easier to obtain, so you may see those with extreme conversions.
 
If you are going to do major engine mods like fored induction, I think I'd opt for the NA1. Things I like about the early 91-94 are the non Targa hard top, manual steering rack, OBD1, and cheaper cost. What I really like about the NA2 is the 6-Speed trans and 3.2L motor, larger brake rotors, and things are just newer.

I'm in the same boat as you though. I like my car, but kind of want to sell it for an NA2 or 02+. I have to get my new trans installed before I can sell mine though.
 
ChrisK said:
If you are going to do major engine mods like fored induction, I think I'd opt for the NA1. Things I like about the early 91-94 are the non Targa hard top, manual steering rack, OBD1, and cheaper cost. What I really like about the NA2 is the 6-Speed trans and 3.2L motor, larger brake rotors, and things are just newer.

I'm in the same boat as you though. I like my car, but kind of want to sell it for an NA2 or 02+. I have to get my new trans installed before I can sell mine though.
Click to expand...

You live in Hawaii now and have an NSX? What year and type? I have driven both and honestly loved the manual steering rack, but yes, I also love the 3.2 and 6spd as a starting point.
 
For 35k you wont find a very nice 97+. I bought a 2000 recently and I wanted a targa. I spend double on what I could have gotten a 91 for but I wanted this car my whole life and didn't want to settle. The 6 speed and 3.2 are worth the extra money if you plan on keeping it
 
Pricing is always going to be a subjective thing and you will hear lots of different opinions. My approach has always been a little bit more statistically oriented - I just track sales data and build a big chart. The sales forum here is an excellent resource for that, simply pinpoint years that you are interested in and see what price they were listed at and how soon they sold. With enough data points you will get a pretty solid ballpark.

In general though, the better the quality of the car (mileage, maintenance, no accidents) it seems the less negotiating is available.
 
I have a 95 NA1 modded with s/c, 6 spd conversion, 4.55 r/p, brembo indy brakes. I think these eliminate the na1 / na2 delta. If I bought as an investment- and we all know by now that cars in general are not- I would have bought an ' 02-up.

You gonna drive that thing or look at it???

To speak to your question: buy an Na1, pull off it what Honda did for the na2 and replace these with what you would probably take off off an na2 anyway. Why pay more for take-offs?
 
Sounds like you've decided to the NSX, things to consider:

1) You might have to ship, so get quotes upfront factor this into the price

2) You're no stranger to mods, so you could mod a nice early car to run rings around that 55K late model for less money. Just make sure you know of a shop on your island that is a great tuner and knows NSX's well.

3) Sounds like open top might be a strong consideration to you. If that's the case and you want an open top, you'll need a Targa. That's year 95+.

If I were you, I'd start with an early model NSX that is in pristine shape and less money. Then get used to it as it is, and enjoy the modding process over time. Last thing you want is to limit your quality of life because your car payment is too big (especially in these times). Go 'conservative'
 
Everyone talks about the benefits of the NA2 over the NA1 but will sometimes neglect to mention the advantages of an NA1. Here they are.

A more pure experience. No power steering, more rigidity, less weight.
It's easy to trim an extra 65 lbs off without sacrificing anything more than the spare tire, engine cover, spare tire mount, cd changer and bracket to get it close to Type S / Zanardi weight.

If you have a 91 you can insure as a silver wheel.
Next year 92, following year 93 etc.

I prefer 5 speed - Plus later on Type R gears drop right in.

Ultimately, if you're after performance you're comparing a 20 horsepower difference to a hundred lbs difference between a targa and a coupe.

Whatever you end up with, be happy and love it. They are all fantastic regardless of minor differences.
 
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bonhamsurf said:
My budget to buy one to mod would be in the 15-35 range (wide range, but of course something pristine or something that already had Pure or Comptech exhaust/headers or other mods would be partway towards my goal and worth the extra $$.)
Click to expand...


Blacknot said:
For 35k you wont find a very nice 97+.
Click to expand...
blue_myriddn said:
In general though, the better the quality of the car (mileage, maintenance, no accidents) it seems the less negotiating is available.
Click to expand...

Pricing is ALWAYS a factor.

$15k won't get you anything but maybe a 91, salvage, neglected, need maintenance (regular oil change is not a major service that is up-to-date:biggrin:)....

You can barely get a decent 95, 96 for $35 with reasonable mileage/up to date service, good condition.

Don't give up though. Who knows, we could be wrong:biggrin:
 
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Big_D said:
This topic has been beat to death several times over the years...

Take a look at these threads and you will have a better understanding. I found them using the "Search" tab at the top and using the terms "NA1 vs NA2" This will give you some differences in not only the 3.0 vs 3.2 engines, but also coupe vs targa and other "intangibles".

http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134333

http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86686

http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121464
Click to expand...

Thanks for these links and also for everyone's help. I will be reading these previous posts in detail.
I realized while reading some of these that a 6sp is almost useless to me on Oahu. We have zero long distance driving. My island is small, and I almost never use the top gear in my bmw or on my harley. I never need it.
I have driven an older NSX without the power steering, and damn it's a nice feeling!
 
bonhamsurf said:
Thanks for these links and also for everyone's help. I will be reading these previous posts in detail.
I realized while reading some of these that a 6sp is almost useless to me on Oahu. We have zero long distance driving. My island is small, and I almost never use the top gear in my bmw or on my harley. I never need it.
I have driven an older NSX without the power steering, and damn it's a nice feeling!
Click to expand...
Who's NSX did you drive? I've driven the Blue 02 you are looking at. Great car, but I can't drive it with the race clutch he has. Made me look worse than the first time driving a manual.:eek:

I lived on Oahu all my life. I used to have the 92 White pictured in my Avitar, now I have a 92 Black with 50K miles.

My White car had the JDM Short Gears and NSX-R Ring and Pinion. That was a great feeling trasmission. My 92 snap ring just broke so I have a new rebuilt trans coming from Science of Speed as we speak. I went the standard trans though as the cost is expensive for the NSX-R trans or 6-Speed. Plus I'm thinking about selling the car once its all fixed anyway.

As for the manual steering rack, I enjoyed driving the 02, but after I got back in my 92, the thing I noticed is the torque of the NA2 compared to my 3.0 with only exhaust is greater, and I loved my steering feel compared to the power steering. I think its one of those things where I've drive an NSX with the manual rack for so long that I'm just more used to it and more in tune with it. I'm sure given a few days in the power steering NSX it will also feel great too.
 
bonhamsurf have you talked to the owner of the blue car? why does it have a race clutch?! :confused: That's a PITA.
 
TURBO2GO said:
bonhamsurf have you talked to the owner of the blue car? why does it have a race clutch?! :confused: That's a PITA.
Click to expand...

Well, I don't know if its a race clutch, but I think it was a stage 3 Clutchmasters or something. I forgot what he told me. Either way, its like and on off switch for me. I've been driving a manual car since I was 15, 24 years ago and think I'm pretty good at it, but I stalled that car about 5 times just getting out of the parking lot.:tongue: Not too mention the 3-4 times after that just driving it around. I can't imagine driving that in traffic.

By the way bonhamsurf, not sure if you noticed but we have our own Hawaii section in the regional sections further down on the forum. Not too much activity, but we post whatever Hawaii NSX related events and get togethers and such there.
 
Pm Steve Lee he lives in your part of the world and knows these cars well and is a devout nsxca member,and crazy enthusiast/tinkerer:cool:
 
• Get the 3.2 T to have minor mods and be quite quick, you'll be more current -performance wise- vs modern cars without doing much, remember, a good driver can do 4.8 to 60, 12.8 on the 1/4 and you still can get to 172mph (stock).

• Get the 3.0 Coupe for heavy mods and raw performance + a bit stiffer chassis.

In both cases is a win, but one advice, some people like to DD, I DD for like 4 months, I don't think is worth @ all, not because of you, but is just WAY TO MANY MORONS driving out there.

Oscar
 
Sorry, just saw you budget .. yeah I'd get a 91-94 with that kind of $ available.
 
Ric said:
IMO, get a 97-2001 car unless you want a 2002+.
Click to expand...

I agree here, and while all NSX's are special, if you are wanting the unique Flap Up Headlight look (which in 10 years may be very retro and rare in itself, (since not many cars being made with those flap-lights anymore). Only 97-01 has both features (lights and OEM power-train updates). I was recently on the hunt for a clean, low mileage, mostly original 97-01 myself, and it was a tough find, but they are out there! I think you should expect to pay a $5k-10k premium on 1997-2001 low mileage/well cared for car, and be prepared to move fast once you find one. All clean and tastefully modified NSX's are collectable, and will be even more collectable, since they are simply cool and rare cars. No disrespect to any other models, but I personally think the 97-01 will be most sought after model as time passes since production numbers were low in those years, there were some unique low production colors made, and they have the flap-headlight look.
Based on history, once japanese vehicles reach 25 years old (which is antique status), it tends to be the time when Japanese cars and motorcycles get an increase in collectors interest. The NSX is one of the most beautiful and rare japanese vehicles ever made from day one, so it will be interesting and maybe unprecedented as to what happens over the next 10 years as this car begins to get more collectable, especially if you compare it to a Datsun 240z, vintage Honda Trail bikes etc which were mass produced but now selling for 10x what they originally cost if in mint condition. I think the NSX will be looked at as one of the best Japanese collectable vehicles ever made, and this may be one of the last windows of opportunity to get one at a reasonable price point. Once the new 2013 NSX comes out next year, interest in the vintage NSX cars is going to be rekindled.
 
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Bonham, you want the short gears or 6spd if you don't use the top gear. The first few gears are closer together with those ratios which sounds like it suits your roads. Also, of you plan to go turbo the original 5 spd is better. But why would you go turbo since you don't have time o build the boost? Peak hp is not everything, I am just saying bc you seem a little obsessed with making that power w your bimmer and will probably chase it in the NSX...
 
Nero Tenebre said:
Bonham, you want the short gears or 6spd if you don't use the top gear. The first few gears are closer together with those ratios which sounds like it suits your roads. Also, of you plan to go turbo the original 5 spd is better. But why would you go turbo since you don't have time o build the boost? Peak hp is not everything, I am just saying bc you seem a little obsessed with making that power w your bimmer and will probably chase it in the NSX...
Click to expand...

Good questions and points. I have had several cars in the 250-350hp range, and want to build something faster. I enjoy learning the mechanics of doing it is one of the reasons. It's a challenge as each car/sc/turbo is different. I have a 1969 bronco that is my true antique, and HP is not my goal in that car, so I'd like a project car to do the HP gains to.
I know that if the NSX is my power project, it's a car I'll never sell, so I won't be worried about taking the loss on the mods I do. I've had my bronco for 13 years now, and I'll never sell, even though I"ve been offered 11 times what I paid for it. Same with the NSX. I won't let mine go once I start :)
 
Having driven a bunch around HI, I would say that a 6 speed there is superior. And the NSX is nothing like any other 300 HP car you've driven, it'll feel very different. Buy it first and drive it, see if you can get yourself to leave it alone. I'd leave the drivetrain alone and work on it's cosmetics. Get a nice exhaust.... put a diffuser on it... Drive it and enjoy it. Go to Roy's and the beach with the targa off. Are you bored there? what do you need a turbo for...
 
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