Parts help

[nbovelle]

Hi Primers!

I’ve been away for a while but am back. My 91 black and ivory sat for about four years. I started it regularly but didn’t drive it. Now that my son is finally old enough to sit in a front seat, I’m going to drive it more!

I discovered that several things need replacing, including:
Trunk struts;
Brake lines;
Master cylinder;
Ac compressor; and the
Blower motor resistor.

I am looking for advise as to we’re to source the parts and if it is better to use oem or aftermarket.

Many thanks!

Nate in DC

 

[03 raw nsx]

Hey Nate,

Marc Perez of Mita is great support for all things NSX
https://www.mitamotorsports.com/?fb...iq8gbtHg_XCgQOwmW3Mo5hZs1ZnwvX7HrqQbBIsSdvnwc

and of course Chris Wilson of SOS
scienceofspeed.com/

this site is also great for prices but shipping takes a while
https://www.amayama.com/en

Personally, I prefer OEM

Cheers
Rich Wong

 

[Old Guy]

For the trunk struts, give consideration to strutwise.com who can re pressurize struts. A number of Prime members have used their service.

Brake lines - are you talking the flex lines at the wheels? Lots of choices. SOS has replacement flex lines in braided SS. There are aftermarket or you can go OEM or there are probably local vendors who will custom fabricate in braided SS. Your call. If you are thinking about replacing the hard lines I might consider going to a good brake shop and have them bend some replacements (I like nickel-copper). Reason being is that sometimes replacement hard lines don't suffer the shipping process so well.

MC - which one? I believe Rock Auto sells a nicely priced replacement for the clutch MC that others have reported good success with. They list a brake MC; but, I am not aware of anybody who has tried it.

Rock Auto sells the OEM Denso compressor for a nice price. However, given your 1991 model year do the research to get the correct part number because you may have to address the 'ozone friendly' issue. I think there is some confusion with cross listing of parts numbers. Some vendors list one part number of all model years perhaps presuming that you are doing a refrigerant conversion. The choice of compressor may be influenced by whether the option exists to have your system vacuumed and refilled with original style refrigerant which may depend on the shops available in your area. Do your homework on this one.

There is no blower motor resistor. There is a blower motor power transistor. Make absolutely sure that the problem is the power transistor because they are kind of pricey. Rock Auto lists replacement and aftermarket is probably as good as OEM because it is just a power transistor which is not made by Honda. The original power transistor is nla and most replacements (OEM and aftermarket) are probably using similar substitutions. If you are keen to save some dollars a little searching with Google will get you a substitute part number transistor for probably less than $10. This does require digging the original transistor out of the potted mess on its heat sink. The alternative starts at around $300 for an aftermarket replacement and +++ for an OEM replacement.

OEM will always be good. However, aftermarket may also be just as good. Lots of people use parts from Rock Auto with success. For OEM parts my personal experience has been that after shipping and $ exchange considerations, Amayama provides the lowest price delivered to my door step if the 2+ week shipping time is not an issue.

 

[nbovelle]

Thank you both! I am excited to get back on the road. And it’s the MC for the brakes and just the flex lines for the brakes.

 

[Honcho]

Thank you both! I am excited to get back on the road. And it’s the MC for the brakes and just the flex lines for the brakes.

I recently used Strutwise and had a good experience. It's much cheaper than buying new struts. I would go with the OEM brake MC. I used a Centric aftermarket version on my last NSX and it started leaking after only about 2 years of use. As for the brake lines, I went with Techna-Fit stainless braided lines. They used to be sold by Dali Racing way back in the day and I had a very good experience with them on the street and track. I'm putting another set on my current NSX. If you don't track your car, then I recommend just buying a new set of OEM lines- they are quite durable and last a long time. It's not too expensive. You can use a Denso aftermarket A/C compressor and you have two choices:

1. 471-1194: This model will fit 91-96 engines, but for some reason the pulley is too small. So, you will either have to swap over your old pulley or find a smaller belt so that you can get the proper belt tension.
2. 471-1193: This model has the correct pulley size, but will only fit 97+ engines, which use a different mounting bracket to make the pulleys line up correctly. The 97+ bracket is about $150, but you can avoid having to pull the old pulley and press it onto the new compressor this way.

If you have the blower unit off for service, it might be a good idea to check the evaporator for leaks while you have access. A lot of the early cars are developing a leak in the evap and it would be a shame to go through all the trouble of replacing your compressor and receiver only to have all the new refrigerant leak out.

 

[nbovelle]

Thanks! For the compressor, I found Denso part number 471-1424 which should not require the pulley swap. I’ll try it and see how it goes.

 

[Honcho]

Thanks! For the compressor, I found Denso part number 471-1424 which should not require the pulley swap. I’ll try it and see how it goes.

Be careful- the 1424 is for R12 refrigerant. You may be able to use it with R134a, but it was designed for R12. Kaz explains it here.

 

[Jerry@Mobile]

Here is another vote for Strutwise in Canada. I would send Frank both the trunk and rear window struts for rebuilding. If you are going to replace the MC, why not replace the clutch master and slave while you are at it. I see you are sometimes in Mad Beach. We have a place up the road in Sand Key. Jerry

 

[drew]

What is the issue with your a/c compressor?

If the internal pump mechanism has gone kaput, then you are in for a big job of flushing and cleaning.

If the clutch went out, it can be replaced in situ without opening the system and is an easy DIY.

The spec'd replacement is a Denso 10PA15 which is 15cc. If you would like a bit more throughput of your a/c system, at the expense of a bit of engine power, you can substitute the 10PA20 which has the same chassis at the 10PA20 and if you want to split the difference there is always the 10PA17