overvolting window regulator motors

[swimmingpie]

I just installed Hugo's window regulator kits and the windows do go faster but I'm still not too satisfied with the speed. Is their an easy way to just overvolt the regulator rather than just reduce the friction? It would be much easier than getting lexan windows.

 

[angus]

What I have done is rewire the windows with aftermarket switches from Spal and 12ga. wire, completely eliminating the factory wiring and switches.

This makes a significant difference and can be tested by unplugging thre connector at the window motor and applying power direct, you will see how fast they go.

BTW - when you did the upgrades, did you lube the window tracks? If not then start there.

 

[swimmingpie]

Thanks. I will give that a shot this afternoon.

 

[angus]

I also once had a discussion with a guy who proposed having me build him a system that had a 6 volt battery that would be wired in series with the vehicles' 12V and thus provide 18V to the windows, such a system would require a little planning and could work - although it would be complex and not only this, may eventually break the regulators.

Although it would certainly make them fly!

 

[swimmingpie]

I tried the regulators out earlier today by wiring the connector directly to a car battery and they were definitely faster. I forgot to test the exact voltage on that battery but the results certainly indicate that running the power straight from the battery would be the best method. How did you hook yours up?

 

[angus]

I tried the regulators out earlier today by wiring the connector directly to a car battery and they were definitely faster. I forgot to test the exact voltage on that battery but the results certainly indicate that running the power straight from the battery would be the best method. How did you hook yours up?

I did this for INDY790, I used aftermarket switches from Spal - they have their own wiring harness, which I upgraded to 12ga. they only require two wires be run into each door and the switches are mounted in the console. This completely bypasses the OEM wiring and makes it direct power.

Works like a charm.

 

[swimmingpie]

So the thin gauge of the factory wiring causes that much of a power loss? I used 14 gauge when I tested the regulators with the battery. I should be able to wire it like you described with the factory switches.

Here is a pic I snapped of the wiring diagram from the service manual.

The two power wires can be accessed on the driver's side switch. I could run heavier gauge wire from the window relay to this point but that still leaves some thin wire going over to the passenger's side. Is that enough to slow it back down or should I run 12/14 ga. over to the passenger's side as well?

 

[Hugabuga]

swimmingpie: I am surprised that you didn't PM me about this, I am the "inventor" of the window kits and I must say you are the first and only member not 100% satisfied with results so far

First I would suggest you to clean and grease the windows tracks. Then I would verifiy the window alignment. And if you are not satisfied with results...only then you could think of modifying the OEM door wirness/switches

From my experience, the alternator gives you a much better power source than any battery...so direct power to a battery shouldn't be better then turning the key and rev the engine

The wires entering the motor, its thermal switch itself, and all the wirness of the car, including fuses etc...are designed to work with a certain amount of amp loads... feeding it with 18V instead of 12....is never a good idea :biggrin:..and using bigger wires doesn't increase the available amps.

Grease the window tracks and you'll solve your problem, thrust me!

 

[angus]

swimmingpie: I am surprised that you didn't PM me about this, I am the "inventor" of the window kits and I must say you are the first and only member not 100% satisfied with results so far

First I would suggest you to clean and grease the windows tracks. Then I would verifiy the window alignment. And if you are not satisfied with results...only then you could think of modifying the OEM door wirness/switches

From my experience, the alternator gives you a much better power source than any battery...so direct power to a battery shouldn't be better then turning the key and rev the engine

The wires entering the motor, its thermal switch itself, and all the wirness of the car, including fuses etc...are designed to work with a certain amount of amp loads... feeding it with 18V instead of 12....is never a good idea :biggrin:..and using bigger wires doesn't increase the available amps.

Grease the window tracks and you'll solve your problem, thrust me!

Thanks for chiming in here Hugo! I did mention he should clean and lube his tracks.

 

[Hugabuga]

yes, swimminppie, follow our advice, LUBE YOUR TRACKS! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
This is what the forum is here for: sharing experiences and advices!
If you don't thrust me or angus on this, then you are on your own
But most of all, if you find a better path..please do not forget to share it with us

 

[swimmingpie]

Update:

I greased the tracks up and it helped a bit but mainly just made them smoother. The real problem (just for the passenger's side) was the spring. It was a bit deformed from some damages a long time ago.(15 years maybe?) Anyway, I adjusted the shape of the spring a little bit and that solved the problem. Now both windows roll up swiftly and smoothly. I don't plan on doing any rewiring for the time being.