On a scale of '1' to 'in the hole 2k for a new abs system', how screwed am I?

Joined
28 May 2011
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267
Location
sf bay area
So last week I was driving around, and my abs pump started running continuously.
I pulled over and pulled the relay and drove home.

Last night, I went to exercise/flush my solenoids.

First solenoid, clicked each time i hit the switch, but never pumped anything back to the res.
Second worked fine.
Third worked fine.
Fourth clicked about 5 times, then wouldn't click anymore, and didn't pump anything back to the res.

So are 2 of the solenoids completely busted?
 
ah! reconnected everything and left the battery unplugged last night. Checked all my abs fuses, then tried the solenoids again.
The one that clicked 5 times, then didnt do anything, was unstuck, and pumped fluid back into the res like normal.

Now I've only got 1 solenoid left that clicks and clicks and clicks but doesn't pump.
 
You will never regret the 2000+ ABS system upgrade.
Someone on Prime was able to revive a stuck solenoid. I can't remember who. The entire modulator needs dissembling to get to the bad solenoid.
However, something doesn't sound right in your testing.
http://www3.telus.net/public/warshan...rebuld_v06.pdf

 
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For almost 3,000 bucks, I regret even thinking about it. That's supercharger fund money.

I went out and mashed the brakes a few times. The pump started running, and I filled the fluid to the max line.
That one solenoid still just clicks. I'm assuming that means when I brake hard, that corresponding wheel should lock up?
Mashing the brakes is supposed to help relieve solenoids that are stuck open, causing the motor to run, not the other way around, correct?
 
people don't have trouble spending that kind of money on exhaust, HP gains, or wheels, but not brakes.
Eventually you need to stop! More so with HP gains. If it prevents one accident, it is paid for.
I paid considerably less. A couple of years ago and did all the work as a DIY.

warning, do not fill the ABS to the max line. Fill to 2/3 between min and max. when the solenoids kick in, it will over flow if at the max line. (promise) Brake fluid will clean paint just like paint remover.
 
people don't have trouble spending that kind of money on exhaust, HP gains, or wheels, but not brakes.
Eventually you need to stop! More so with HP gains. If it prevents one accident, it is paid for.
I paid considerably less. A couple of years ago and did all the work as a DIY.

warning, do not fill the ABS to the max line. Fill to 2/3 between min and max. when the solenoids kick in, it will over flow if at the max line. (promise) Brake fluid will clean paint just like paint remover.

I'll go and suck some fluid out with the baster tonight. I see you're basically the guru on rebuilding 91-92 abs units.
So rebuilding the whole system (do you have any o-ring kits left?) would be the only/best way to unstick that one jammed solenoid? Or would rebuilding it not remedy that?

I'm a little confused as to what is actually going on when it clicks but doesn't return anything to the reservoir...
 
I'll go and suck some fluid out with the baster tonight. I see you're basically the guru on rebuilding 91-92 abs units.
So rebuilding the whole system (do you have any o-ring kits left?) would be the only/best way to unstick that one jammed solenoid? Or would rebuilding it not remedy that?

I'm a little confused as to what is actually going on when it clicks but doesn't return anything to the reservoir...
I have o-ring kits available for re-assembly. Send me a private message.
If your solenoid isn't working, you need to replace it or get it working. someone on Prime has managed to do this.
You could have a completely blocked modulator. I have seen the rubber seat at the bottom of the valves beyond fixing as well. (see my writeup) At that point, because of the availability and cost of the modulator, it is time to replace or delete the system.
 
I totaly dismantled mine and reused the o rings. I had a solenoid stick and the pump just ran and would not build pressure. When i took apart found two solenoids not performing. I put each one in a vise and conected a lenth of 3/8 clear tube with fluid and a large seringe. While clicking the solenoid and a helper pushing brake fluid they eventuly started flowing. It took mabee 40 clicks on the worst one. Placed them all back and the unit works fine.
Rod
 
Cool... perhaps I'll try that soon. On average, how long would you guys say it takes to pull the whole thing out to get to the solenoids and rebuild it? Are we talking hours? Days? Weeks?
Also, afterwards, do you have to bleed the entire brake system (at each wheel) or do you just have to bleed the abs system on re-install?
 
You will never regret the 2000+ ABS system upgrade.

^^^What Warren said, my old system wasn't really playing up but it had some of the regular issues now and again so I upgraded to the new system and put the larger 97+ rotors on and after regular driving and quite a few track days just love the way it stops and feels. oh and so much lighter
 
I droped the unit out the bottom complete less the tire guard but reintalled without the lower braket which was easyer.Pulling about 20 minutes with reinstall and brake bleed a couple hours inluding pulling wheels and getting back on ground. The disasembly and reasembly was around 5 hours if i remember correctly. I spent most time manualy flushing the solenoids untill they had a very solid and firm click and fluid flowed freely everytime they were activated.It was an easy job.Hope this helps. It was fun repair.Nothing used exept brake fluid
Rod
 
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