Oil Pan gasket replacment - Parts needed?

[ftuhy]

I just finished doing the timing belt on my '96 NSX-T. In the process, I discovered that what once was a slight weep on my oil pan gasket is now a full fledged leak.

Any hints as to parts needed for this? My WAG:
1. oil pan gasket
2. exhaust gaskets (high temp"o-rings") on the pipe passing under the pan.

Frank

PS - In the PDF file on replacing the timing belt, it mentions an engine compartment fan. There is no fan in my '96. The mounting hole/nuts for it have never been touched by a bolt. For '96, Honda provides a '95 manual and a small supplement. The '95 manual shows the fan; the '96 supplement doesn't mention if it was discontinued.

Is mt '96 supposed to have that fan? I've owned the car for 7 years now (48kmi on it), and have not had any heat issues. In fact, my timing belt looked as good as the new one, and all rubber cover gaskets were very soft & pliable.

 

[OneRedNSX]

they deleted the passenger side fan.

 

[Briank]

The fan was dropped, I assume the engineers at Honda found it unecessary.

You might what to get some anti-seize for the exhaust nuts when you reassemble. I also coat the exaust gaskets so they don't weld in place.

 

[Tomrev]

Re: the timing belt; my hats off to you for taking on the timing belt R&R as a do-it-yourself project. Belts usually look perfect till the moment of failure, and then Damn! You did the right thing.

 

[KooLaid]

Oil filter, oil and oil plug crush washer.

Good thing you mention your exhaust gaskets, I completely didn't think about that and I'm about to do my oil pan gasket too!

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Just an FYI, I have never had to renew the exhaust gaskets, with an oil pan gasket change. I have had no issues and no exhaust leaks when done.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[tuned-r]

Hi,

I just replaced my oil pan gasket last week. It broke into shreads when i took it out (1st time changing).
U will need the OE pan rubber gasket and some blue RTV silicon.
Make sure U wash the oil pans and the crank case.
Btw no. the nuts when U take them out for easy id.
U will need 5 litres of engine oil.

My only difficulty was to remove the flexy xzos hose coming from the front engine banking as nuts holding them are stuck. Need a lot of WD40/CRC.


T-R

 

[Larry Bastanza]

"U will need the OE pan rubber gasket and some blue RTV silicon."

This gasket should be put on DRY, no silicone, no sealer, no Hondabond.

LarryB

 

[tuned-r]

Larry B,
I put the Blue RTV on the screw. Will there be any problem?

Cheers
T-R

 

[nigel]

NEVER USE ANY KIND OF SILICONE BASED GASKET SEALER!!! IT WILL LEAK!!! If you must use a sealer get Spray Ultra Copper and apply a very light coat. If the surface is clean and dry you shouldn't need anything.

Cheers
nigel

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Larry B,
I put the Blue RTV on the screw. Will there be any problem?

Cheers
T-R

This will probably be OK. The key here is to not put it on the gasket itself. Just for future reference there is no oil in contact with the screws, so although it will not hurt it is really not needed.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[tuned-r]

Larry,

What is the torque for the oil pan screw bolts ?

Cheers

T-R

 

[Briank]

The spec is 10 ft/lb but reading old threads that may be way to much. Q had trouble using that spec. but maybe his torque wrench was inacurate at such a low value. I would say you need an inch/lb torque wrench and start at 60 in/lb.

 

[tuned-r]

Appreciate yr sharing.

T-R

 

[Q]

The spec is 10 ft/lb but reading old threads that may be way to much. Q had trouble using that spec. but maybe his torque wrench was inacurate at such a low value. I would say you need an inch/lb torque wrench and start at 60 in/lb.

DO NOT use the torque spec in the shop manual!!!!! Brian is correct, I ruined a pan gasket because of this!

The correct way to torque the pan bolts is in a criss-cross fashion from the middle of pan and work your way out. You only need to torque the bolts until you see the gasket "squish" out to be flush with the block and the pan. I did this over a year ago, and my pan is tight and dry. I agree, my torque wrench could have been inaccurate at such a low spec. Use the method I used and you'll be fine.

Afterthought:
Although it's possible my torque wrench could have been inaccurate, I suspect that it wasn't. Other people have had the same experience by using the torque specs called for in the manual.

Sean

 

[ftuhy]

Finally did the oil pan gasket replacement last night. Unfortunately, I saw Larry B's comment about the exhaust gaskets after I order the parts. Larry was not only right, he was very right.

The exhaust gaskets on the pipe looked as good as the new ones in the bag. I obviously re-used the old ones. Not even a hint of a leak.

Also, Larry, thanks for the hint on removing the engine-tranmission stiffener. Its only two bolts and with that out of the way, the pans drops down/goes back up with no interferences. (Torque is 16 ft-lb on the small bolt, 33 on the large one - hard to find in the manual!)

The job went very smoothly, all bolts came off easily. All I did on the exhaust bolts was wire-brush the threads before attempting to remove the nuts. Didn't even need the help of any rust-busting sprays, etc. I used Never-Seize when re-installing all bolts & nuts.

Ahead of time, I took the pan gasket, placed it between a couple sheets of newspaper and weighted it down with the shop manual for a day or so before using it. That way there was no tendency for it to curl up. There was no problem with it staying in place on the oil pan during installation.

It appears my leaks primarily were at 2 of the 4 spots where the manual recommends sealant (I used Hondabond) at the junctions of the main block with the oil pump and back engine cover. Hopefully the pan won't "sweat" oil again for another 10 years.:biggrin:

So, now I have some new exhaust gaskets I don't need. If anyone needs a
18229-SH3-X30 ($13.68) or 18212-671-003 ($3.92) I'm willing to sell them at the noted price I paid, no charge for shipping.

Frank